Clutch gray zone question
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+1 on the AIM Light Force Clutch Slave Cylinder
It significantly lightened the clutch pull and moved the friction zone slightly close to the grip.
It significantly lightened the clutch pull and moved the friction zone slightly close to the grip.
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4,813 Posts
you can try an adjustable clutch lever. i have the oberon. it will allow you to move the friction point closer to the grip where you don't have to extend your fingers as far.
while it doesn't really change the amount of effort required, it makes a huge difference.
while it doesn't really change the amount of effort required, it makes a huge difference.
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381 Posts
+2 here for the AIM & landshark1369's 100% accurate description of the benefits of the AIM. Love it.
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2,753 Posts
Changing the slave cylinder will make the lever pull require less effort. There are several companies selling the cylinders now, the only one I can vouch for is the AIM. Pretty easy install unless you get air in the clutch master cylinder. And it will draw air while there is still fluid in the reservoir.
Swapping out the damper spring shim for the 19my part will move the friction zone back towards the grip. 37000295 is the part number on that, bout 10 bucks. 9 times out of 10 you can reuse the primary gasket. And you'll be doing yourself a favor if you fill it back up with Redline primary fluid. Past that, if the primary vent recall has not been done, the dealer should be willing to add the shim to the warranty ticket for about .5 hours labor. Just three more bolts and pulling the plate stack to change it. Little parts like this have gotten real hard to come by of late. I just did one of those shims and it took almost 4 weeks to get it. Not sure if its a supply issue, or Harley just stroking the chicken about shipping parts.
If you do the clutch cylinder yourself, don't let the system drain while its open. Cap the fluid line soon as you pull it off. then keep the master cylinder full while you bleed it. Its a real PITA when that clutch master gets air in it.
Swapping out the damper spring shim for the 19my part will move the friction zone back towards the grip. 37000295 is the part number on that, bout 10 bucks. 9 times out of 10 you can reuse the primary gasket. And you'll be doing yourself a favor if you fill it back up with Redline primary fluid. Past that, if the primary vent recall has not been done, the dealer should be willing to add the shim to the warranty ticket for about .5 hours labor. Just three more bolts and pulling the plate stack to change it. Little parts like this have gotten real hard to come by of late. I just did one of those shims and it took almost 4 weeks to get it. Not sure if its a supply issue, or Harley just stroking the chicken about shipping parts.
If you do the clutch cylinder yourself, don't let the system drain while its open. Cap the fluid line soon as you pull it off. then keep the master cylinder full while you bleed it. Its a real PITA when that clutch master gets air in it.
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102 Posts
+3 for the AIM. '17 RGU 107ci.
I had added the '19 damper spring seat early last year. That helped the friction zone placement some; but the pull in traffic still sucked... a lot! Popeye would have had a cramp between DC and Fredericksburg, VA on I 95.
I added the AIM about a month ago. I noticed the difference immediately. I could feel the clutch start to grab almost right off the handle bar; The working friction zone (for slow speed maneuvers) is just about mid lever (good for short fingered me) and the pull was much easier to manage while sitting in traffic.
The only negative thing that I noticed is the clutch now behaves like a 'mechanical' clutch that is adjusted a little tight (bike lurches forward slightly when starting in gear and I can feel the friction when peddling it around my driveway and garage).
I'm planning on going back to the original clutch damper spring seat ('17) this weekend. I'll update after that but I think that will get the zone where I need it to be and give the full throw back to the slave cylinder.
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1,657 Posts
Interesting. I've been considering the Mueller slave, but fitment for my bike is weird (2016 TC with hydraulic clutch and the A&S clutch pack), and I'm getting conflicting answers over which slave cylinder to use. Regardless, I'd rather not have the clutch dragging when I've got the lever all the way in. I suppose I could change it back.....and add the Man 'O War compensator.....and go to 32-tooth.....and this is how my money gets spent.....
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3,759 Posts
I did the AIM Slave Cylinder and as everyone’s said it was a huge improvement in the clutch pull. It moved the friction zone close to the grip which I preferred. I also later added the VP-SDR with Performance Clutch Coil Spring Kit in preparation for Stage II. I didn’t experience any slipping so I’m happy.
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4,989 Posts
Plus 1 on the Oberon clutch lever!
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1,657 Posts
Thought about those, but I've heard that they force your hands outboard. Not a big deal for me (big hands), but that might be a problem for folks with smaller mitts.
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3,470 Posts
Has the clutch fluid been changed out in the last couple of years? If not it might be to purge your fluid out and see if you find improvement. I've noticed every time it's done the clutch 'feel' is back where it belongs. If it's been done recently then the aftermarket slaves are the way I'd go...
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146 Posts
I did the Rekluse slave cylinder and Oberon levers. I could not be happier with this combination. Half the pull effort from the Rekluse, and engagement is less than 1/2" off of the grip if Oberon is set on #2 or half way out if set on #3. Well worth the money for me.
Yes. About 6 months ago. But it's dirty again so going to do both the primary and the clutch line fluid.
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