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Discussion Starter #1
I went by to pick up my 2010 from the indy today and when i was leaving the lot i noticed the clutch wasn't catching until the lever was let out almost all the way. this set off alarms for me because i know that's not right, and it just felt wrong as well. well i took off down the road and cracked open the throttle , was getting good pull, and then no pull at all when the revs started climbing to the point where i would normally change gears. i then eased back to the shop and told them it didn't feel right, i tried to explain what was happening. to me it feels like the clutch is slipping, never had that happen on a bike before, but have had it happen in one of my old stick shift cars. feels the same.

well, here's the short list of maintenance that was done while in the shop:
-10k service
-swapped stock hand levers for black levers
-terry components TV3 auto tuner installed

so, the guy is telling me that it's a simple clutch adjustment that needs to be done?

anyone experienced this before or have any insight on what's going on?

of course, all of this happened just right before closing time, so the bike was left there to be fixed tomorrow. i really don't think the autotuner would have anything to do with this, but i don't know at this point. i know i won't get multiple things done at once to the bike again.


thanks for looking, ride safe.

-Country
 

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Sounds like an adjustment needs to be made. There was a discussion last night about how the clutch pack in the primary has an adjustment screw and if it's too tight, you can get slippage.

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Sounds like the cable needs to be re-adjusted if they swapped your levers.
 

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Did they adj. the clutch at the primary during the 10K svc? IMO, they need to adj. the clutch at the primary & then at the cable per the 2010 HD Service Manual. You paid good money to have your bike worked on. Ask them who took the bike for a test ride after work was done. Something ain't right!!!!!!!!!!1
 

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Discussion Starter #5
well, i finally got the bike back on saturday. dude told me that he had to replace the clutch spring because the Terry Componets TV-3 auto-tuner gave my bike more power than the stock clutch spring could take. :confused:
even though the auto-tuner made a heck of a difference in throttle response and acceleration, i'm waving the b.s. flag on this one. i honestly think somebody goofed up something changing my levers and that was the excuse i was given to cover their ass.
 

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well, i finally got the bike back on saturday. dude told me that he had to replace the clutch spring because the Terry Componets TV-3 auto-tuner gave my bike more power than the stock clutch spring could take. :confused:
even though the auto-tuner made a heck of a difference in throttle response and acceleration, i'm waving the b.s. flag on this one. i honestly think somebody goofed up something changing my levers and that was the excuse i was given to cover their ass.

OK Phrog,
I´m gonna play the devils advocate here and say that maybe it isn´t so much BS afterall.
My reasoning?
I don´t know exactly how many extra ponies you are getting after you had the TV-3 installed. But, I can say that when you install a stage 1 bigbore (bore only) on either an 88 or a 96 the kit comes with the heavier clutch spring.
Usually a good tune will net you more HP and torque than just a big bore (without cams) would have gotten you.
My 2cents.
I would say that if the clutch pull (freeplay) was more or less the same prior to and following the lever change the slippage was probably due to the extra power your ride has.
 

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I would say it could be a combonation. The clutch should be checked and adjusted at every major service (5k intervals), just my opinion, I'm not sure what the service manual calls for but I know how often my gets checked/adjusted.
 

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No disrespect to anyone but I don't see how just a tuner / stage 1 could boost the HP above what the stock clutch spring could handle. I believe the mechanic has the clutch cable too tight. Check the end play at your clutch perch and cable. Pull the cable by hand and check the distance. Should be around 1/8".
 

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No disrespect to anyone but I don't see how just a tuner / stage 1 could boost the HP above what the stock clutch spring could handle. I believe the mechanic has the clutch cable too tight. Check the end play at your clutch perch and cable. Pull the cable by hand and check the distance. Should be around 1/8".
+1 on Redfish's feedback on this one. Like Redfish, no disrespect intended, but it would surprise me to see that kind of a power increase with a tuner. Sounds like they doing just what someone else mentioned "covering their ass" But in the end, if it's adjusted correctly now, and you have a heavier spring, you should have any more problems. But I will add, I would be questioning any troubleshooting they might do for you in the future.

Rowdy
 

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My money is on the clutch cable being adjusted too tightly after installing the new lever.

As far as having too much power after the tuner being installed, I'm definately calling BS. You could slap a set of cams in it too and the stock spring will still be more than strong enough. Stealer is betting your too ignorant enough to not believe him so he can charge extra for his screw up.
 

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+1 on Redfish's feedback on this one. Like Redfish, no disrespect intended, but it would surprise me to see that kind of a power increase with a tuner. Sounds like they doing just what someone else mentioned "covering their ass" But in the end, if it's adjusted correctly now, and you have a heavier spring, you should have any more problems. But I will add, I would be questioning any troubleshooting they might do for you in the future.

Rowdy
+2 Total BS from that wrench. I'd find another place to have work done, in the future. People rag on "stealerships" all the time, but there are plenty of indy's like this clown out there as well. Even if his "theory" were correct, had they done a test ride, they would have found the problem. Hope it gets squared away, and you get to enjoy your bike!

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks everyone for the input. in the future, i will be taking the bike elsewhere. i will probably never know for certain whether he's telling me the truth or not. bottom line, it comes down to me discovering it when i test rode the bike, when it should have been them discovering it on a test ride. it was pretty obvious that something was wrong.

-Country
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So it's been 3500 miles since all this happened. Well, the clutch started slipping again this past Sunday. Been calling around and trying to get an answer on what typically causes clutches to slip. Not many solid answers other than normal wear and tear. One service tech said the clutch should be checked and/or readjusted every 2500 miles. Well, the HD service manual says every 5000 miles. Anyone else heard of checking this every 2500 miles? Also, there seems to be a difference of opinions on the use of synthetic vs. non-synthetic oils. Any input there?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=33.302357,-117.345878
 

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Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.

Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed. ALWAYS adjust the clutch on a COLD motor otherwise you could have shifting problems as the motor warms up.

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .

It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.
Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
 

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A somewhat related question; when adjusting the clutch pack screw can it be said that tighter induces slippage and looser more grab?

I back off mine 3/4 turn on my '12 RGC, wondering if I should back it off a full turn.

As it is I barely get a clunk going into 1st. gear (hot), sometimes it just slips in no sound at all (cold), looking for all the grab I can get in the upper gears.
 

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So it's been 3500 miles since all this happened. Well, the clutch started slipping again this past Sunday. Been calling around and trying to get an answer on what typically causes clutches to slip. Not many solid answers other than normal wear and tear. One service tech said the clutch should be checked and/or readjusted every 2500 miles. Well, the HD service manual says every 5000 miles. Anyone else heard of checking this every 2500 miles? Also, there seems to be a difference of opinions on the use of synthetic vs. non-synthetic oils. Any input there?


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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=33.302357,-117.345878
The book may say that but it is Bullsh!t IMO if you don't abuse your bike by doing stupid things like hole shots or wheelies your clutch pack should hardly ever need adjustment. I last adjusted the clutch on my bike @ 5K and it didn't need it then, I have over 47K on the bike now and the clutch is just fine. The best way to adjust your clutch is to slack off the clutch cable all the way, take off the derby cover and loosen the lock nut located in the center of the clutch assembly, then take the screw that is located inside the center of the lock nut and turn it clockwise until it seats lightly against the clutch assembly, then back the screw out 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn, put the derby cover back on and tighten up the clutch cable until you have about a 1/8 of inch play in the cable. You MUST do the clutch adjustment on a COLD bike. I have used Mobil 1 20w50 V-Twin oil in my primary for 47K miles so it can't be the oil IMO.
 

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Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.

Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed. ALWAYS adjust the clutch on a COLD motor otherwise you could have shifting problems as the motor warms up.

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .

It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.
Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
i just got my 08 road glide back from being serviced...

clutch lets out almost at the end.(1/2 in or so)..dont remember it like this. used to start engageing about half way..

is this correct or was it wrong before?

or is clutch about gone ?


at 1/2 turn out clutch was fully letting out about 1/2 in from end.
at 3/4 turn about inch from end...(could i have done something wrong...i backed off cable adjuster off til lever was about free....but dont think i backed adjuster all the out)


Should i leave it alone or go for full turn.
in your opinion where do you like your clutch fully letting out?
 
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