[bigmatt1967]

Need some help
in a 2012 fltrx does it have the screaming eagle compensator
#42200064A

or a standard compensator

dealer getting on it today and I want to be fixed RIGHT:serious::serious:

 

[RGKen]

Need some help
in a 2012 fltrx does it have the screaming eagle compensator
#42200064A

or a standard compensator

dealer getting on it today and I want to be fixed RIGHT:serious::serious:

It has the Screamin Eagle comp but they have since made more so called improvements in the Rushmore bikes 14' & up. The newest one has a piece that is glued on the inside of the outer primary cover that helps throw more oil on the compensator that is supposed to help the life span.

 

[Gary R]

Baker also makes an "improved" version.
http://bakerdrivetrain.com/compensator-sprocket-kit

 

[bigmatt1967]

Thanks for the feed back !!

 

[Big_gary]

I like the idea of the Baker. If it's anything like the rest of their parts, it should be rock solid. I really wish I knew why the MOCO needed to change designs in the first place.

 

[DED HD]

I really wish I knew why the MOCO needed to change designs in the first place.

I heard that when they widened the swingarm in 2009, they had to make the primary case narrower.

 

[tdkkart]

I really wish I knew why the MOCO needed to change designs in the first place.

Some brain-child engineer determined that teh earlier stock compensator would not hold up to the abuse of the 103 and 110" engines. Hopefully that guy is scrubbing toilets today, along with the guy that designed the new one. The compensator in my '15 is nearly as noisy as the severely worn one I took out of my '11.

 

[Road dawg]

What did you replace it with on the 2011?

 

[Glidr]

Jumping in on this one because I think mine is on its way out and I'm doing homework on the topic.

 

[ironmark]

I heard that when they widened the swingarm in 2009, they had to make the primary case narrower.

The inner and outer primary covers are the same from 07 to 13 touring models. The outer primary cover changed on the 14 and later models because of the new compensator, the only difference is that the 14 and later primary cover already has the oil deflectors molded in the case and there is no need to glue in the oil deflectors.
The 2014 and later outer primary case will fit the 07 and later touring model engines which include the 96 and 103 engines.

 

[OldNerdGuy]

Here is the HD Compensator situation, as told to me;

The original Twin Cam compensator (88 cu in model) is long gone. They tried using it with the 96" engine, total failure, POS.

So, what once was called the Screaming Eagle Compensator became the stock compensator (2010 models, I believe).

In 2014, the did a mod to the stock (former SE) to improve the oil distribution within the compensator. This includes an oil drip tray. This should now be the ONLY compensator you can get (unless someone has old stock laying around). Just a note, if you have the original 88" engine compensator, you will have to have a new Alternator Rotor installed to get the compensator replaced.

So, if you go to a Dealer and get a Compensator replaced, you should get the new-improved 2014 compensator. That may mean they charge you more labor because they have to glue the drip tray on the primary cover, if you do not have one. The newer primary covers have that tray cast into the metal.

Aside from the oil distribution methods (and swapping a roller thrust bearing for a brass shim), I cannot see any difference between how the former SE comp and the 2014 comp operate. They are the same basic design.

Another Note: if you already have a 2014 Compensator and want to go to the Baker Compensator, you will have to grind out that Drip Tray (plastic or metal, whatever you have) to get the Baker to fit.

 

[Big_gary]

I wish the moco would quit calling fixes to their FU's SE, and just keep SE to performance stuff like it was meant to be.

 

[LNWLF]

Here is the HD Compensator situation, as told to me;

The original Twin Cam compensator (88 cu in model) is long gone. They tried using it with the 96" engine, total failure, POS.

So, what once was called the Screaming Eagle Compensator became the stock compensator (2010 models, I believe).

In 2014, the did a mod to the stock (former SE) to improve the oil distribution within the compensator. This includes an oil drip tray. This should now be the ONLY compensator you can get (unless someone has old stock laying around). Just a note, if you have the original 88" engine compensator, you will have to have a new Alternator Rotor installed to get the compensator replaced.

So, if you go to a Dealer and get a Compensator replaced, you should get the new-improved 2014 compensator. That may mean they charge you more labor because they have to glue the drip tray on the primary cover, if you do not have one. The newer primary covers have that tray cast into the metal.

Aside from the oil distribution methods (and swapping a roller thrust bearing for a brass shim), I cannot see any difference between how the former SE comp and the 2014 comp operate. They are the same basic design.

Another Note: if you already have a 2014 Compensator and want to go to the Baker Compensator, you will have to grind out that Drip Tray (plastic or metal, whatever you have) to get the Baker to fit.

So if that is the case then how much more does that cost to have the rotor replaced? And if this is the case would the Baker be the much better solution for performance as well as cost savings?

 

[tdkkart]

Here is the HD Compensator situation, as told to me;

The original Twin Cam compensator (88 cu in model) is long gone. They tried using it with the 96" engine, total failure, POS.

So, what once was called the Screaming Eagle Compensator became the stock compensator (2010 models, I believe).

In 2014, the did a mod to the stock (former SE) to improve the oil distribution within the compensator. This includes an oil drip tray. This should now be the ONLY compensator you can get (unless someone has old stock laying around). Just a note, if you have the original 88" engine compensator, you will have to have a new Alternator Rotor installed to get the compensator replaced.

So, if you go to a Dealer and get a Compensator replaced, you should get the new-improved 2014 compensator. That may mean they charge you more labor because they have to glue the drip tray on the primary cover, if you do not have one. The newer primary covers have that tray cast into the metal.

Aside from the oil distribution methods (and swapping a roller thrust bearing for a brass shim), I cannot see any difference between how the former SE comp and the 2014 comp operate. They are the same basic design.

Another Note: if you already have a 2014 Compensator and want to go to the Baker Compensator, you will have to grind out that Drip Tray (plastic or metal, whatever you have) to get the Baker to fit.

All of that, and the compensator in my '15 110" is nearly as noisy as the one that was in my '11 103. Of course it would be, because it's still the same POS design as it was before.

 

[OldNerdGuy]

So if that is the case then how much more does that cost to have the rotor replaced? And if this is the case would the Baker be the much better solution for performance as well as cost savings?

I do not know if the Baker requires the Rotor replacement, but my guess would be it would. It is a clearance issue. When I replaced my first comp in my 2009, the SE Comp Kit (as it was known at the time) came with the rotor. The upside is, it is a High Output Alternator Rotor, so you get a power boost. The 2014 Comp Kits DO NOT COME with a Rotor. If you already have the older SE Comp, you do not need to replace the rotor. Only if you have the original 88 cu in. comp do you need to replace the rotor.

All of that, and the compensator in my '15 110" is nearly as noisy as the one that was in my '11 103. Of course it would be, because it's still the same POS design as it was before.

Yup, same basic POS design, just with more oil. When I pulled my second comp (first SE kit), the springs were dry, in a wet sump primary. When I pulled my third comp (first 2014 kit), the springs were wet, so the oiling thing is working.

I am now on my 4th Comp in 101900 miles;

Original Super POS comp (88 cu in design)
One SE Comp Kit, w/rotor
One 2014 SE Comp Kit with oil drip tray glued on
One 2014 SE Comp Kit, already had the tray glued on. (Present comp).

I wanted to do the Baker. But, at the time, they were still filling the pre-orders and everything else was a back order. Plus, I already had the oil drip tray glued in, and the tools to put in another 2014 SE Comp. I also did the Primary Chain and Clutch Basket (Sprocket) with the latest Comp.

 

[ironmark]

HD SE Compensator HD PN 40100061 cost $409.95. Fits 2006-2011 Dyna and 2007-2010 touring models and 2007-2009 CVO models, Kit includes Rotor Assembly HD PN 30041-08.
This is the kit you need for your 2007 to 2010 touring model.

If your bike is a 2011-2013 you need HD PN 42200064A for
$299.95 this is the compensator with oil deflector ONLY because your bike already has the new style rotor for the stator.

 

[LNWLF]

HD SE Compensator HD PN 40100061 cost $409.95. Fits 2006-2011 Dyna and 2007-2010 touring models and 2007-2009 CVO models, Kit includes Rotor Assembly HD PN 30041-08.
This is the kit you need for your 2007 to 2010 touring model.

If your bike is a 2011-2013 you need HD PN 42200064A for
$299.95 this is the compensator with oil deflector ONLY because your bike already has the new style rotor for the stator.

Thanks to both OLDNERDYGUY and IRONMARK. I ride an 09 that started life as a 96 but had a big bore kit and different cam installed before I bought it. with the SE breather and different exhaust along with the SERT she is pushing more compression now. This is what lead to my starter failure last year and the dealer mechanics suggested I get compression releases installed to solve that issue. All this being said, it sounds like I need be concerned about the compensator failure being a real possibility. I would like to go with the most reliable fix instead of experimenting with a number of attempted fixes. Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[OldNerdGuy]

Thanks to both OLDNERDYGUY and IRONMARK. I ride an 09 that started life as a 96 but had a big bore kit and different cam installed before I bought it. with the SE breather and different exhaust along with the SERT she is pushing more compression now. This is what lead to my starter failure last year and the dealer mechanics suggested I get compression releases installed to solve that issue. All this being said, it sounds like I need be concerned about the compensator failure being a real possibility. I would like to go with the most reliable fix instead of experimenting with a number of attempted fixes. Any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Go for the Baker, much better than what HD makes. You may still have to upgrade your Alternator Rotor. Check the Baker Site.

Compensator Sprocket Kit | Baker Drivetrain

 

[Clutch1]

My 04 RG has the original compensator in it, i have 71,000 miles on it. What does it sound like when it goes bad? I have not heard any new sounds out of her this season.


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[Big_gary]

My 04 RG has the original compensator in it, i have 71,000 miles on it. What does it sound like when it goes bad? I have not heard any new sounds out of her this season.


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A box of rocks shaking around. Hard starting when warm, acts like a bad starter. On your 04, you should still have the old trouble free style.