[wevsspot]

My shiny new Cerwin-Vega B2 amp arrived last night and I had time to put it on the bench and test to make sure that everything worked before I start tearing into the bike.

I have a couple questions that I'm hoping someone here can answer.

Bike is 2015 Road Glide with stock 4.3 HK radio

1. What diameter ring terminal is required for power line connection to the battery terminal? Is is 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" or other?

2. Anyone have speaker wire color code for front left and front right?
The only info I've found is from Hawg Wired and they say;

Front Left + / White-Orange
Front Left - / Light Green - White
Front Right + / Gray-Red
Front Right - / Light Green - Black

Are those correct? Any help on the two questions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[mrsayes]

wires are gonna be pink in color...the pink with the black stripe is positive.. cant miss them they are going into the speaker boxes on either side inside the fairing

 

[wevsspot]

I found an online photo of the service manual for 2014 touring showing the following;

Left Front Negative – Pink/Gray
Left Front Positive – Pink/Orange

Right Front Negative – Pink/????
Right Front Positive - Pink

That look right?

 

[wevsspot]

Ok, the battery post bolt is 10MM so now I know what size ring terminal I need. Just an FYI for anyone else needing the same info in the future.

 

[Smarty]

I found an online photo of the service manual for 2014 touring showing the following;

Left Front Negative – Pink/Gray
Left Front Positive – Pink/Orange

Right Front Negative – Pink/????
Right Front Positive - Pink

That look right?

Yes, and the other side is pink/black I think. I remember they were just slightly different

 

[wevsspot]

Thanks for the confirmation Shorty. Much appreciated!

Also, for anyone needing this info in the future.......

The battery post bolt is 10MM and requires a 1/4" ring terminal to connect accessories or AMP.

 

[wevsspot]

Over the weekend I finished the installation of my new AMP (Cerwin-Vega B2) to compliment the JBL GTO638 speakers that I installed the first week I bought the bike.

All I can say is Wow. AMP install was ALOT of hard work, especially fitment in the shark nose, but it was well worth it.

AMP gain was set using a digital multimeter and the crossover frequency set by ear. The GTO638 speakers don't really play well with frequencies below 100hz at high power input and high volume. My input voltage to the speakers is approximately 31.62v and crossover is set at 120Hz (best guess).

This allows for almost uncomfortable volume levels when the bike is running.

The GTO638 speakers are rated 50Hz-21,000Hz at 60W RMS and that is probably a pretty fair and accurate rating. Just be advised that if you want high volume when jamming down the highway at 80mph you will probably want to set your crossover frequency somewhere above 80Hz minimum.

 

[MisterD]

Over the weekend I finished the installation of my new AMP (Cerwin-Vega B2) to compliment the JBL GTO638 speakers that I installed the first week I bought the bike.

All I can say is Wow. AMP install was ALOT of hard work, especially fitment in the shark nose, but it was well worth it.

AMP gain was set using a digital multimeter and the crossover frequency set by ear. The GTO638 speakers don't really play well with frequencies below 100hz at high power input and high volume. My input voltage to the speakers is approximately 31.62v and crossover is set at 120Hz (best guess).

This allows for almost uncomfortable volume levels when the bike is running.

The GTO638 speakers are rated 50Hz-21,000Hz at 60W RMS and that is probably a pretty fair and accurate rating. Just be advised that if you want high volume when jamming down the highway at 80mph you will probably want to set your crossover frequency somewhere above 80Hz minimum.

Just curious why you felt the amp install was "a lot of hard work"? Im cracking mine open shortly, but opted for the biketronics amp so that I could use their mount to make the job easier (at least I hope). I actually wanted the B52 amp.

 

[09Sharknose]

Over the weekend I finished the installation of my new AMP (Cerwin-Vega B2) to compliment the JBL GTO638 speakers that I installed the first week I bought the bike.



All I can say is Wow. AMP install was ALOT of hard work, especially fitment in the shark nose, but it was well worth it.



AMP gain was set using a digital multimeter and the crossover frequency set by ear. The GTO638 speakers don't really play well with frequencies below 100hz at high power input and high volume. My input voltage to the speakers is approximately 31.62v and crossover is set at 120Hz (best guess).



This allows for almost uncomfortable volume levels when the bike is running.



The GTO638 speakers are rated 50Hz-21,000Hz at 60W RMS and that is probably a pretty fair and accurate rating. Just be advised that if you want high volume when jamming down the highway at 80mph you will probably want to set your crossover frequency somewhere above 80Hz minimum.

Why would adjusting it to crossover above 80Hz matter? I assume that's the low pass freq which would mean everything above 80Hz would come through anyway. Now if that's the high pass freq, that would be interesting for a set of 6.5 speakers.


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[! rock103 !]

Thanks for the info! I'm no stereo savvy tech guy, so this will help me alot. I think...! :laugh:

 

[wevsspot]

Just curious why you felt the amp install was "a lot of hard work"? Im cracking mine open shortly, but opted for the biketronics amp so that I could use their mount to make the job easier (at least I hope). I actually wanted the B52 amp.

The CV amp is long compared to some of the other mini amps so it won't fit lengthwise below the stock stereo mount. So you have to switch the orientation. Power, ground and remote turn on wires pointing down towards the headlight assembly, and the gain / frequency controls pointing up towards the radio faceplate. No one makes a bracket for that, so short of buying a generic bracket or bracket designed for something like the RF PBR300 and modifying it you are left to your own designs, and there isn't a lot of room up under the fairing.

I rigged mine with a combination of black gorilla tape to act as a cradle and then zip tying the amp mounting points to prevent side to side movement.

I purchased a Scythe fuse holder and it took me a bit to finalize where I wanted to place that huge 40/80AMP fuse holder. I ended up running the power wire to the right hand side under the side cover so I have easy access to the fuse if ever needed.

Maybe "hard" was the wrong word, more like time and patience consuming. Remember that in order to properly install the AMP you need to remove the seat, fuel tank and of course the outer fairing.

Regardless, the results were well worth the effort.

 

[wevsspot]

Why would adjusting it to crossover above 80Hz matter? I assume that's the low pass freq which would mean everything above 80Hz would come through anyway. Now if that's the high pass freq, that would be interesting for a set of 6.5 speakers.


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Like many AMPs the CV B2 has a crossover switch for All Pass, Low Pass and High Pass. Since I'm not running a sub, the Low Pass was irrelevant in my application, leaving me All Pass or High Pass options. The All Pass (AP) setting yielded the most rounded audio output at normal idling or accessory only operation, but since AP passed even the lowest frequencies out to my rather inexpensive speakers there was lots of bass distortion at volumes that you would need at highway speeds. On the CV B2 frequency adjustment isn't available when using the AP setting.

Hence I started playing around with the High Pass option which allowed me to adjust the frequency up to a point that some low end bass and plenty of mid-range bass really thump the speakers at highway volume.

Every setup is going to be different based on your components and what you are trying to achieve. My main goal was a stereo that I can hear when I'm jetting down the interstate at 70 or 80 MPH. It doesn't matter to me how good the system sounds in the garage or idling at a stop light.

 

[09Sharknose]

Like many AMPs the CV B2 has a crossover switch for All Pass, Low Pass and High Pass. Since I'm not running a sub, the Low Pass was irrelevant in my application, leaving me All Pass or High Pass options. The All Pass (AP) setting yielded the most rounded audio output at normal idling or accessory only operation, but since AP passed even the lowest frequencies out to my rather inexpensive speakers there was lots of bass distortion at volumes that you would need at highway speeds. On the CV B2 frequency adjustment isn't available when using the AP setting.

Hence I started playing around with the High Pass option which allowed me to adjust the frequency up to a point that some low end bass and plenty of mid-range bass really thump the speakers at highway volume.

Every setup is going to be different based on your components and what you are trying to achieve. My main goal was a stereo that I can hear when I'm jetting down the interstate at 70 or 80 MPH. It doesn't matter to me how good the system sounds in the garage or idling at a stop light.

I'm not familiar with those speakers, but that makes sense. My 6.5s can handle down to 50Hz cleanly.

Contrary to popular belief, bass on a motorcycle isn't just for stoplights and stop signs. It's all physics.


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[wevsspot]

What 6.5's are your running SharkNose? I'm contemplating spending a bit more on speakers now that the amp upgrade is done.

My amp is actually a bit of overkill for my speakers (JBL GTO638) rated at 60W RMS and 180W peak. But I've always subscribed to the old school it's better to over-amp and watch your volume, than it is to under amp.

At any rate, the setup will probably get more tweaking once I've had some more saddle time, but I've got it dialed in to a starting point.

I'm a little worried that my gain may be set too high, but according to my math and the experts the 31.62v is the correct setting depending on who you ask....

 

[09Sharknose]

I run focal K2 power and hertz 165s on the front and hertz 690s in the rear lids. And when it's connected, I run alpine type r components in the tourpak pods and an alpine 8" sub inside the tourpak.

The hertz 6.5s go down to 50Hz, the focals go to 60.




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[wevsspot]

I run focal K2 power and hertz 165s on the front and hertz 690s in the rear lids. And when it's connected, I run alpine type r components in the tourpak pods and an alpine 8" sub inside the tourpak. The hertz 6.5s go down to 50Hz, the focals go to 60.
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Nice setup, but well outside of my budget for audio. Settled on the Infinity Kappa 62.11i speakers based on lots of recommendations over at HDforums. It was between those and the Alpine SPR-60 speakers. Hope I don't regret getting the Kappas because I was really leaning towards the Alpines until I got scolded over at HDforums

 

[09Sharknose]

Nice setup, but well outside of my budget for audio. Settled on the Infinity Kappa 62.11i speakers based on lots of recommendations over at HDforums. It was between those and the Alpine SPR-60 speakers. Hope I don't regret getting the Kappas because I was really leaning towards the Alpines until I got scolded over at HDforums

I used to have an all alpine SPR setup. The 60s and 60c. They are the best sound I've heard at the price point. I've never used the kappas but I've heard good things about them.


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[wevsspot]

Thanks for the feedback Sharknose. If I'm not happy with the Kappas I'll probably re-consider the Alpine SPR-60 option. At the beginning of this journey, here are the other options I considered;

Full details;
Bike - 2015 Road Glide
Radio - Stock 4.3 HU
No flash, BT or Magic Box
AMP - Cerwin-Vega B2
Current Speakers - JBL GTO638

All over the web the fairly standard recommendations are; JL, Hertz or ARC if money isn't an object (unfortunately it is in my case) or Infinity Kappas for sound and volume if you're on a budget.

But being one to go against the grain more often than not, I was exploring other alternatives to the Kappas and I've done a bunch of searching and researching and come across these possible alternatives;

CDT Audio CL-6EX.2
Amazon.com : 6.5" CDT Audio 2 Ohm Coaxial Speaker Pair CL-6EX.2 : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics


CDT Audio HD-6EX
Amazon.com : HD-6EX - CDT Audio 6.5" 130W RMS 2-Way Coaxial Speakers : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics


CDT Audio HD-6EX.2
Amazon.com : HD-6EX.2 - CDT Audio 6.5" 130W RMS 2-Ohm 2-Way Coaxial Speakers : Car Electronics


I've never used (or even heard any CDT Audio gear before) but their speakers seem to have pretty good feedback.

A couple of other more recognized names I was considering;

Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R
Amazon.com : Alpine SPR-60 6-1/2" Coaxial 2-Way Type-R Speaker Set : Vehicle Speakers : Car Electronics


CERWIN VEGA V465
Amazon.com : CERWIN VEGA V465 6.5-Inch 400 Watts Max/75Watts RMS Power Handling 2-Way Coaxial Speaker Set : Car Electronics

 

[blazeman]

I run focal K2 power and hertz 165s on the front and hertz 690s in the rear lids. And when it's connected, I run alpine type r components in the tourpak pods and an alpine 8" sub inside the tourpak.

The hertz 6.5s go down to 50Hz, the focals go to 60.




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What amp do you run? Just bought a set of Hertz 165's.

 

[09Sharknose]

I have one Hawgwired RS400 supplying the front 4 speakers, one RS400 supplying the subwoofer, and one jl audio HCX 280/4 bridged to the two saddlebag speakers.


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