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Discussion Starter #1
Well crap. Dilemna time.

In the process of swappin cams I measured the crank runout and @5k miles I'm showing .007" without the cam plate installed. The all and knowing factory says it's AOK cuz good is .000-010". Out of spec is .012"

So decision time. Install the new cams, or reassemble with the stock cams again. Curious what some of you guys who do.
 

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I had the same run out, so I went ahead and split the cases and had it corrected.

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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You should be ok for chain drive cams. You won't be able to use the gear drive with that runout. JMO
 

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Tough call. My bottom end is at Franks right now getting fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the responses.

I am going to talk to a couple of go-to guys on Tuesday. Overall the cam plate and associated parts look better than my last TC which had .008" run out when I opted to trade it in. But I'm leaning toward running the 57h's until I gather all the parts to build this right.
 

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Thanks for the responses.

I am going to talk to a couple of go-to guys on Tuesday. Overall the cam plate and associated parts look better than my last TC which had .008" run out when I opted to trade it in. But I'm leaning toward running the 57h's until I gather all the parts to build this right.
Does run out get any worse over time?
 

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Did you feel or hear a problem before you tore it down for the cam install? If it was me I wouldn't worry about it. Do you realize what .007 of a inch is in measurement? A piece of paper is .004 so .007 is nothing. It's not a rocket ship slam those cams in and enjoy.


I really wonder if there would be so much talk about these crank problems if there was a Internet to read about stuff and worry. It reminds me about the State Farm commercial. Everything on the Internet is true. Hahahahaha

Anyways what are u going to do about it? Harley won't do anything until .012 and if they do decide to fix it don't go to my harley dealer they can't fix shit. I spend 50k on 2 bikes in less than 7 months and they can't do a 1k service correctly. 2 out of 3 drain plugs loose and a drive belt that's tight as hell and making noise.
 

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Mine was .006. When I purchased this bike it was my first ever 'new bike' purchase. I went into that knowing two things: 1) I was going to have this bike for a long time, and 2) I believed that over the years I would most likely go through a couple of builds (on a 107' right now). So... when I got the call from a shop with that number and knowing that I wanted to target greater torque/power down the road I decided to just take care of the issue and be done with it. I was fortunate to be in a position where I could do so. Glad I did.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Did you feel or hear a problem before you tore it down for the cam install? If it was me I wouldn't worry about it. Do you realize what .007 of a inch is in measurement? A piece of paper is .004 so .007 is nothing. It's not a rocket ship slam those cams in and enjoy.


I really wonder if there would be so much talk about these crank problems if there was a Internet to read about stuff and worry. It reminds me about the State Farm commercial. Everything on the Internet is true. Hahahahaha

Anyways what are u going to do about it? Harley won't do anything until .012 and if they do decide to fix it don't go to my harley dealer they can't fix shit. I spend 50k on 2 bikes in less than 7 months and they can't do a 1k service correctly. 2 out of 3 drain plugs loose and a drive belt that's tight as hell and making noise.
Believe me I know what .007" amounts too and it's a crap load in machinist speak. It's the James Bond run out number. :)

Yes running with .007 will work, it was running fine when I tore into the cam chest to swap cams. I'm planning to run the new cams in the short term.

Internet or no, flywheel shift is a real problem. I know several people I ride with who have lost the bottom end of their twin cam engine because of flywheel shift. One guy is on his 3rd bottom end (~150k miles). Ignorance is bliss. If I had not measured the runout I would not know how bad it is until the day the oil light comes on... Maybe it will stay at .007 for the next 20k or maybe it'll be at .014" at 10k... My money is on .014"@ 10k...

At this point I need to talk to a couple folks before I commit to a plan. I also need to figure out how much this will cost to fix on my dime if I decide to go that route. If the dealer will honor the warranty even with an aftermarket cam when the oil light comes on, then maybe i will let them repair it. If I do the work it's not gonna be a 103" when I'm done...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mine was .006. When I purchased this bike it was my first ever 'new bike' purchase. I went into that knowing two things: 1) I was going to have this bike for a long time, and 2) I believed that over the years I would most likely go through a couple of builds (on a 107' right now). So... when I got the call from a shop with that number and knowing that I wanted to target greater torque/power down the road I decided to just take care of the issue and be done with it. I was fortunate to be in a position where I could do so. Glad I did.
Exactly. That's precisely why I'm in hold pattern right now. My 95" put out significantly more power, and I find the 103 quite anemic. The cam change was step one, 107 and head work was next step for winter. But now I need to decide to execute the long term plan or wait out the time bomb and build it later. If do it sooner than later the component costs will be less. Timing is not ideal for full tear down right now... but we'll see.
 

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You have to fix the crank before you make more power. Mine was .006 and I tore it apart and fixed the crank and then built a better 103" motor. Was showing some wear on stock cam plate and pump. You are correct. It will get worse. Good luck.
 

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I'd leave it alone and start saving your money for a trip to Darkhorse or Silvermoon for the real fix.
Just box up the complete lower end including the case and be done.

What's the I.D. of the cam plate bushing look like?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'd leave it alone and start saving your money for a trip to Darkhorse or Silvermoon for the real fix.
Just box up the complete lower end including the case and be done.

What's the I.D. of the cam plate bushing look like?
The cam plate bushing is more worn on one side than the other. But I've seen worse. I'll be rippin it apart at the end of the riding season, or sooner if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Just a quick update.

Put it together with the 57H and said screw it to even discussing with dealer. My preferred local guy was surprised at the .007" run out as he's found the newer cranks to be much better than a few years ago. Discussion ensued regarding the future of the engine... Fact is I'd rather put it together "blue printed" vs letting Harley bolt it together with the same close enough is good enough parts.

I do like the cam so far and it's not as soft at low rpm as I expected, in fact it's pretty comparable to OEM until it wakes up like a light switch, then very different. I suspect once tune is dialed in the low end will be better than stock at 2-2.5k.

BTW the discussion earlier on runout getting worse over time. Roger mentioned that he's found that the new flywheels are so damned tightly pressed that he screwed up one set of flywheels trying to nudge them back to true. This was an expirement with an already trashed set of wheels. He said the amount of pressure needed to move the wheels on the pin was so high it basically twisted the pin when it finally moved. His opinion was that my flywheels have been .007 out since day one. Who knows, I know I do launch pretty hard on a regular basis so I would not be surprised that I shifted them... but who knows. Anyway... 4.5" stroker wheels are in my future. :D
 
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