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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I completed the install of my new bars on Saturday. I installed Chubby WO515's and had to internally wire the bars. I got the wires pulled thru without too much trouble, but I was really not very comfortable with how tight they were pulling them through. I had initially intended to leave the wires external, but these bars do not have the indent on the bottom of them, just a hole to internally wire.

In a nutshell I got it back together, went for a spin and everything was fine. Later that same day I decided to go for a longer ride and the check engine light came on. I checked the fluids and stuff just to be sure and everything checked out so I figured it was something I did with the wiring. As I continued on my way I tried the cruise control and it was not working. The on/off switch works & illuminates, and the icon on the tach illuminates orange, but does not change to green.

I have a few things I'm going to try, but is the TBW wiring harness house anything to do with the Cruise Control? The TBW wiring is what I was most concerned about when pulling thru the bars.

If I have to pull everything back out of the bars I think I'm going to drill a hole on the bottom of the bars on the throttle side so I can run the harness on the outside.
 

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If I were you, I would check that the brake light switch that is operated by the brake lever were working properly. The Switch easy to break and the cruise will not function if it thinks the brakes are being applied.

Second, clear all of the codes from the computer (codes can be scrolled through in the odometer window). You should be able to search this site for instructions on that procedure, I don't have it in front of me. In my experience, it is not uncommon for some codes to show up after a bar install. Just clear them and they will go away. I suspect it has something to do with unplugging everything and plugging it back in.

Hopefully those two items will take care of your problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Roadie. I printed off the info a little while ago for checking and clearing the codes and that is where I wanted to start. Brake lights and everything else for that matter seems to be working correctly. Hopefully clearing the codes will do the trick, but if not I think I can tear it apart and put it back together in record time now. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I ran the diagnostic check and got the following error codes P1510, P2122, & P2138. The 2122 & 2138 are both twist grip sensor related so I'm assuming I tugged a little too hard pulling the wires thru. Looks like I'll be pulling last weekends work apart and redoing it.
 

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I had the same codes on one of my installs, cleared the codes and everything was fine.

Did the codes return after you cleared them?
 

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Cruise

I just installed cruise on my 2010. Theres not much to it. The wire harness off the handle bar controls which connects in the fairing and the on/off switch which the wires go into the same plug as the Ass. switch. 12 post plug I believe and thats it . I know that little green TBW @$#!^ connector gave me problems. good luck
 

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Hey Hull, I have had the same problem,engine light comes on,no cruise controll and limited power.The bike runs but not at full power. Do you have the same probem. I have seen a few posts about this.One problem was a poor connection at the ecm or the pins on the plug to the ecm have a little corrosion on them.Usually if you cycle the ignition. It will reset.Still a pain.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had the same codes on one of my installs, cleared the codes and everything was fine.

Did the codes return after you cleared them?
They returned. I cleared them and took it for a short ride. The engine light came back on almost immediately after starting the bike.

Hey Hull, I have had the same problem,engine light comes on,no cruise controll and limited power.The bike runs but not at full power. Do you have the same probem. I have seen a few posts about this.One problem was a poor connection at the ecm or the pins on the plug to the ecm have a little corrosion on them.Usually if you cycle the ignition. It will reset.Still a pain.
The only difference I have from you is I don't seem to have a limited power problem. The power seems fine. The P1510 code did have something to do with the fuel injection so it's possible the power is a little off and I just didn't notice it.

Looks like I created my own problem here :mad:. I'm fairly certain I pulled one or several wires apart when pulling them through the new bars at this point. Tear down begins tonight :eek:. I'll report back what I find, but I think I already know what it is.
 

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Sorry to hear you are still having problems.

If you are still using the original TBW unit, you can replace it with the SE version which eliminates the green connector in the middle. That will make it a little easier pulling the wire bundle back through the bars.

Keep us posted on what you find, maybe the next person can learn something as well.
 

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Hull,the power loss was not really noticeable at first.Mainly at wot did I notice the loss,so you may not have noticed the difference.
 

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BTW I also replaced my bars and had to string them. It was difficult getting all those wires in the bars so I may have stripped the insulation off a wire or pinched one. Please let us know what you find.It will be very helpful. Thanks,Fred.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Well I can give a partial update. I tore everything apart tonight and slowly and easily removed the wires from the throttle side of the bars. I pushed from the bottom hole and pulled from the switch housing without pulling on the actual throttle portion. As the green connector became visible from the hole in the bars, I grabbed it with my hook tool and it was already seperated from the other end of the green connector. It had to be partially connected in the bars as my throttle was working, but I suspect the halves of the green connector were partially disconnected from my pulling them thru the bars.

I ordered a new (longer) throttle wire yesterday so when it comes in I'll put it all back together, and hopefully report that the problem is solved. Control wires will be external this time though.
 

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Hull, for some reason on my bike there was no connector for the throttle in the bars.The wire is solid from the twistgrip to the plug in the fairing,so that is not the problem for me but the wire may be chaffed in the bars from pulling them in.Thanks for the update and be sure to let us know the results of the fix.
 

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Hull- when you pull through the new wires, have the rubber cover on them, put a little WD-40 on the rubber as you pull it down. It will help the rubber cover slide through the bars, I also taped the wires together with the rubber cover to a lead (I used some heavy twine) so that you aren't pulling on the wires themselves but on that rubber cover. It may help from pulling things apart or damaging any wires.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hull, for some reason on my bike there was no connector for the throttle in the bars.The wire is solid from the twistgrip to the plug in the fairing,so that is not the problem for me but the wire may be chaffed in the bars from pulling them in.Thanks for the update and be sure to let us know the results of the fix.
Digga, You must have a CVO RG. Someone else suggested I get a CVO TBW because they don't have the green plug in the bars.


Hull- when you pull through the new wires, have the rubber cover on them, put a little WD-40 on the rubber as you pull it down. It will help the rubber cover slide through the bars, I also taped the wires together with the rubber cover to a lead (I used some heavy twine) so that you aren't pulling on the wires themselves but on that rubber cover. It may help from pulling things apart or damaging any wires.
The first time I used KY jelly on them and it was very slippery so I don't think that was my problem. I read in some other threads to remove the covering on the wires and replace with shrink tube, which does make sense. The covering on the wires is larger than the wires thus filling more space. I think the big thing on mine was that green connector ends up right about where the first bend is in the bars thus making it real tight in that spot.

I'm not going to run my control wires internal when I reinstall; just the TBW. I've already decided to drill a hole in the bottom of the bars just beyond the brake lever and fish the control wires thru it. I have some Capt. Itch Leather wraps to hold the wires to the bars. This was how I initially intended to install them anyway, but the Chubby bars didn't have the indent under them to keep the wires external. I just don't like having everything so tightly installed. This way I'll be able to service the TBW without having to remove the bars if ever needed. Chainsaw did this same thing to his bars and I like how it looked.
 

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I used a piece of shrink tube over my green connector, helps keep it locked together during installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I have a final update. As it turned out when I pulled the throttle wire and control wires thru the bars the first time I pulled too hard and partially seperated the green connector. The other thing I noticed was that the green connector final resting place was actually in the bend of the bars. This most certainly added to the tightness pulling thru the bars. This caused the cruise control to not work and the engine light to come on.

I destroyed the old TBW cable removing it so I went ahead and bought a new longer one. While I was at it I went ahead and lengthened the control wires as well so I could tuck all the wire connectors back in where they originally were so they didn't interfere with puting the headlights in. I drilled a 9/16" hole in the bottom of the bars and fished the control wires thru it so that the control wires can run external on the right side. This allowed me to run the throttle wire thru the bars without it being so tight.

Put it back together this morning and went for a short ride and all is well again. If I ever do this again I would eliminate the green throttle wire clip altogether like Digga says is done on the CVO bikes. That one item alone would make pulling the wires internal alot easier.
 

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Im currently having all the same issues you did. I think Im going to have to hard wire that TBW. I guess I could just cut it and solder it together? What do you think?
 
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