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Discussion Starter #1
(Question for you who installed these Faring mounted CD Fog lights yourself )

I am installing two pairs of Custom Dynamics Fog lights on my 2020 RGL FLTRK. Set one are mounted low on crash bar. Set two are up on the faring with the turn signals. I’ve already drilled and mounted the lights into the faring using HD mount. All good.

I’ve installed the HD wiring harness and accessory switch pack w two switches in dash; one switch for each pair of fog lights. Now for the wiring choices, particularly for the faring mounted lights. This is the harness for adding HD LED Fog Lights into the faring. It adds fused switched battery to each turn signal plug for the fog lights. The HD lights draw 750 mA each and the CD lamps draw 1.0 amp each while on.

Faring Lights (Upper)
CD prefer that I run all wiring back to Caddy under seat and just splice out their switch into one of the now installed dash switches. That seems a little clunky to me and doesn’t take advantage of the big relay and 10A harness I’ve installed to control and power the faring lights From the dash.

My original plan was to wire in the CD lights by splicing into the Turn Signal wiring for GND and Running and use the newly added (BE/BK - Term 4) for RED. This plan pretty much follows HD approach to the Fairing mounted lights, but the halo needs juice too, so I was just going to tap that from signal Lamp wiring which are now CD LEDs too running light power. This requires cutting the CD Fog Lights connector off and wiring inside the fairing. I am essentially using the HD Daymakers wiring and install procedure, but also tapping the running lights for the halo on the CD lights. No CD Harness used on the upper lights.

Lower (Crash Bar) Fog Lights
The first option, running the unmodified CD wiring out of the faring, under the tank and seat and using the CD isolator harness plugged into the tail light circuit. The only issue with this is to splice the Switch out in favor of the dash panel, but that should be easy enough. This is pretty much a standard CD install using their harness and isolator for plug n play. The only thing here is to wire in my 2nd dash switch to control them too. They were quite ok with this.

Man I hope that is clear, only had one cup of Joe before writing.

My question is what are the pros and cons of the faring wiring given the choices above? Is there anything I’m missing that I should consider?

Also, wondering if the halo draws much current as a running light? The Harley Fog lights don’t have this Halo run light. I don’t think the CD Halo running light draws much current, but thought I’d check it first, since the turn signals (CD LED too) also use power as running light.

Thanks.

K
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Following Up - Here’s a photo of the Left side Fairing mounted CD LED Fog Light above the CD Halo Turn Signal Using the H-D RG Fog Light Fairing Mount. Down on the crash bar is the one of the lower set of CD LED Fog Lights mounted using their Clamp Kit. I mounted to the outside the crash bar underneath my foot rest. Most people opt to mount to the inside of the crash bar, but with the lowers, this clamp kit just didn’t fit right.

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Well the install went well. The solution for mounting the Custom Dynamics LED Fog Lights on to the H-D Fog Light Fairing Mount was to use a metric manifold stud size M10-1.50 on one end, and M8-1.25 on the other. Along with some SS split lock washers and hex nuts it came out pretty well. Drilling the fairing was easy enough using the Template guide in the HD fairing mount kit. I recommend clamping it down rather than just masking tape. What you need to end up with is a 5/8 in hole drilled at a specific angle. I used a Dremmel tool and worked my way to where I needed to be with the additional hole on each side of the fairing.

I opted to use Harley’s recommend switch pack and harness for the HD Fog lights and adapt them to control the Custom Dynamics Lights.
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Here are the switches mounted in the RG dash panel. Installation of these was a piece of cake. On my 2020 all of the wiring is already in place to accept the switches.

I opted to not cut the wiring to the CD Fog lights and instead fish them down under the tank to the caddy under the seat. I chose to do this because each CD light draws one amp each. HD lights only draw 700 mA and I wasn’t sure if the preexisting wiring could handle the additional load. Besides, CD was ok with my cutting their switch out and connecting each pair of lights to its own relay. I bought a couple marine grade 12v 30A 5-pin relays for complete with harness/sockets for < $20. Then it was just a matter of splicing in 12v power under the seat from each of the dash switches to turn the fog lights on or off.

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With halo mode on lower (crash bar mounted) switch off. The upper light is on in this pic. There is lots of light!

Bottom-line, it’s a lot of work and it does take a little customization but I believe it’s well worth the effort. The light look and work amazingly well. Just be mindful that NOBODY will want you behind them with all lights on!

As far as rear lighting goes I changed out all red lights for clear/smoke look. Even the side marker lights on the Tour Pak are smoke now. All of these lights were pretty much plug n play. It is a little crowded under the seat with all the series connectors, but it works for now. Perhaps I will remedy that with some kind of marine terminal block To consolidate all of these Molex connectors.

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