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I have a friend with a CVO Street Glide and he has DD gauges....really likes them. I did my research and concluded they are what I want. I'm simply tired of struggling to get a quick, easy read of the finer details from the stock gauges. My set is on order and I'm anxious to get them set up.

fwiw: I think it's definitely too easy to get involved in a myriad of colors. I'm planning to keep it very simple in terms of color, and make small changes from there over time.
 

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^^^That's correct.^^^ Search (example) 'MLX-8414 Dakota' and you'll see the listings. Check every listing for price. Some won't show their price until you add it to you cart, but you can dump it after checking. Some listings allow you to make an offer. That's what I did. I got mine from a seller with a 99.9% positive feedback rate. I could've saved a bit more, but the guy had a 97% rating and was a lot farther away.
 

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I’m getting pretty stoked to do the install. I’ve got DD gauges, CD lights x 3 and other things to install very soon. I’ve literally been too busy working to pay attention to motorcycle parts. That’s about to change....soon.

Really enjoy the pics of the digital gauges.
 

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I just completed the installation on a 2020 RGL. Here's what I encountered on that particular bike:

1) Windshield and outer fairing removal are a breeze, as expected.

2) I had to remove the horseshoe-shaped ignition trim panel under the ignition knob. It is not extremely difficult to remove IF you know how. It's a piece of plastic worth about $4.00 but if you break the very tiny plastic tab (hidden) you'll spend a lot more than that to replace it. H-D sells the black ones for $78....a crime against us.

3) The main gauge cluster will only clear the ignition after that trim piece (above) is removed.

4) I had to unbolt (5 per side) the speaker pods in order to access the back of the 2 smaller satellite gauges. I had to use plenty of 1/4" extensions to reach the gauge screws (3 per gauge) and remove them. I didn't drop any screws, but fair warning....it's easy to do amid all the clutter in there.

5) Each satellite gauge has a plug-in harness which goes from that gauge into the back of the main gauge cluster. You may need to get creative routing/pulling those harness wires to keep them hidden. I used a long piece of thin stiff wire.

6) I routed the satellite gauge harnesses (2) and left them in position to make connections. Connect a gauge and then position it to add the screws. Repeat.

7) I next routed the harness piece for the oil temp sensor, again hiding it from view.

8) After both satellite gauges were connected and installed, I brought the main gauge cluster into semi-position and made the plug-in connections. With that done, I placed the cluster and bezel into final position and turned the ignition on to verify all gauges were powered up and working.

9) Some zip-ties and wire juggling were next, then gradually reinstall everything.

Bingo......

Car Vehicle Plant Light Motor vehicle
Car Speedometer Odometer Gauge Motor vehicle
Speedometer Odometer Motor vehicle Gauge Steering part
Motor vehicle Vehicle Speedometer Automotive design Gear shift


I further complicated (good complication) my gauge project by simultaneously installing a set of Custom Dynamics LED Vent Inserts....AND....a set of CD LED Sequential Windshield Trim. I got some things backward, and that was honestly due to a lack of comprehensive instructions. A couple phone calls with the good people at CD got me straightened out.

Automotive parking light Land vehicle Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting


Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Land vehicle Tire Wheel
 

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And for anyone reading this somewhere in the future: If you somehow break the Ignition Trim Panel (the horseshoe shaped chrome or black plastic piece located under your rotating switch knob) DON'T burn your money on the oem HD part. It's very simply a cheap plastic molding with finish applied. They are sold every day on Ebay for $15 and are identical.

You can send me $10 and still pocket the $50 saved. :LOL:
 

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Well, I believe I stand corrected on the MBM-17 (as well as -09 and -19) modules. According to my written owners manual on the DDG MLX-8414 those modules can be added to that gauge series. I suppose the value of the module addition depends on how your bike is equipped in terms of that data being already available. For example: My 2020 RGL is factory equipped to read air temp, compass heading, etc. On my bike the new gauges show air temp. My BOOM GTS main screen show the direction of travel or heading via letter designation. The bottom line is to be aware what data you may already have available on your bike, and then decide if the extra module gives you data you’d like. Whew!
 

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jchar27: Do you have your original booklet / manual which came with the gauges? If the information isn’t in there, I would simply call Dakota Digital and ask for tech support. I haven’t set this up on my gauges yet.
 

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I know that this is a older thread, but for those that have installed them on the newer bikes, how do you like them? Still happy? Any issues?
Honestly....I like them even better today than I did when first installed. I think that's because it took me a while to get them set/programmed correctly and understand the scrolling system (on the bike) vs the app. I absolutely would/will do them again on a future bike.
 

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Thanks for the info, After much research, trigger pulled. Dennis Kirk had them in stock and at 5% off.
Congratulations. Let us know if you have questions. Several good videos can be found on Ytube. The printed instructions are basically 95% straightforward, with a little interpretation required here and there. Plan a day without interruptions and take your time.
 

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I don’t run infotainment, I have a Sony in the dash and I definitely need to run the programming for my gears. The do not align due to some gearing mods. I’ll give programming a try and see if it holds. I’d love to have a success story


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When you take the bike out to have the DD gauges 'learn' your gears, you'll be riding rather moderately in each gear until the gauge tells you to shift. You need to be on a fairly long straight stretch of road with little traffic. A 4-lane is best and if possible have a car follow you so you don't get run over from behind. You'll run approx 20 seconds of constant speed in each gear, so a couple minutes or so of constrained riding should do it.
 
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