[jchar27]

Nice! And yeah, I can take off the fairing. This is mine right now... lol

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I like the idea of the painters tape to hold in the vent screens. Easier than finding room on the cluttered workbench for them.

 

[StoneTrekker]

I’m getting pretty stoked to do the install. I’ve got DD gauges, CD lights x 3 and other things to install very soon. I’ve literally been too busy working to pay attention to motorcycle parts. That’s about to change....soon.

Really enjoy the pics of the digital gauges.

 

[RogersRGU]

So a stupid question????
How many have decided to do the dakora digital or thinking of them on their wish list.since this thread was started. Lol

 

[cpbedor]

So a stupid question????
How many have decided to do the dakora digital or thinking of them on their wish list.since this thread was started. Lol

I’ll apologize in advance

 

[Jblohm]

So a stupid question????
How many have decided to do the dakora digital or thinking of them on their wish list.since this thread was started. Lol

Count me in on the wish list.


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[Korazu]

I was actually just thinking of changing out to LED lighting in the OEM, but like the DD ones better. However, yes this post got me off my @$$ to do it! LOL

 

[scooper321]

I like the idea of the painters tape to hold in the vent screens. Easier than finding room on the cluttered workbench for them.

I used the hell out of painters tape to hold the screens, label the wires, everything!


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[scooper321]

Count me in on the wish list.


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Me too. But with new extended shift and brake levers, a new seat, stereo upgrade done, a windshield arriving today and bars waiting to go on, I think I’m done for upgrades for this off season. Maybe next year?

 

[Korazu]

Me too. But with new extended shift and brake levers, a new seat, stereo upgrade done, a windshield arriving today and bars waiting to go on, I think I’m done for upgrades for this off season. Maybe next year?

My bank account says I need to also, however, dropped it off to have camshafts/bearings, pushrods and lifters replaced as scheduled for this off-season. Going to have the guy put in my DD oil sensor, since I am going to just have him replace all three holes while it's there. But I am wanting to put a better stereo in it, so it may have to wait for next off-season as the DD was not a planned purchase for either season! 🤣😂

 

[Jblohm]

So a stupid question????
How many have decided to do the dakora digital or thinking of them on their wish list.since this thread was started. Lol

Well I gave in today and pulled the trigger on a set. Be here Monday.


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[StoneTrekker]

I just completed the installation on a 2020 RGL. Here's what I encountered on that particular bike:

1) Windshield and outer fairing removal are a breeze, as expected.

2) I had to remove the horseshoe-shaped ignition trim panel under the ignition knob. It is not extremely difficult to remove IF you know how. It's a piece of plastic worth about $4.00 but if you break the very tiny plastic tab (hidden) you'll spend a lot more than that to replace it. H-D sells the black ones for $78....a crime against us.

3) The main gauge cluster will only clear the ignition after that trim piece (above) is removed.

4) I had to unbolt (5 per side) the speaker pods in order to access the back of the 2 smaller satellite gauges. I had to use plenty of 1/4" extensions to reach the gauge screws (3 per gauge) and remove them. I didn't drop any screws, but fair warning....it's easy to do amid all the clutter in there.

5) Each satellite gauge has a plug-in harness which goes from that gauge into the back of the main gauge cluster. You may need to get creative routing/pulling those harness wires to keep them hidden. I used a long piece of thin stiff wire.

6) I routed the satellite gauge harnesses (2) and left them in position to make connections. Connect a gauge and then position it to add the screws. Repeat.

7) I next routed the harness piece for the oil temp sensor, again hiding it from view.

8) After both satellite gauges were connected and installed, I brought the main gauge cluster into semi-position and made the plug-in connections. With that done, I placed the cluster and bezel into final position and turned the ignition on to verify all gauges were powered up and working.

9) Some zip-ties and wire juggling were next, then gradually reinstall everything.

Bingo......

I further complicated (good complication) my gauge project by simultaneously installing a set of Custom Dynamics LED Vent Inserts....AND....a set of CD LED Sequential Windshield Trim. I got some things backward, and that was honestly due to a lack of comprehensive instructions. A couple phone calls with the good people at CD got me straightened out.

 

[Mike U]

I just completed the installation on a 2020 RGL. Here's what I encountered on that particular bike:

1) Windshield and outer fairing removal are a breeze, as expected.

2) I had to remove the horseshoe-shaped ignition trim panel under the ignition knob. It is not extremely difficult to remove IF you know how. It's a piece of plastic worth about $4.00 but if you break the very tiny plastic tab (hidden) you'll spend a lot more than that to replace it. H-D sells the black ones for $78....a crime against us.

3) The main gauge cluster will only clear the ignition after that trim piece (above) is removed.

4) I had to unbolt (5 per side) the speaker pods in order to access the back of the 2 smaller satellite gauges. I had to use plenty of 1/4" extensions to reach the gauge screws (3 per gauge) and remove them. I didn't drop any screws, but fair warning....it's easy to do amid all the clutter in there.

5) Each satellite gauge has a plug-in harness which goes from that gauge into the back of the main gauge cluster. You may need to get creative routing/pulling those harness wires to keep them hidden. I used a long piece of thin stiff wire.

6) I routed the satellite gauge harnesses (2) and left them in position to make connections. Connect a gauge and then position it to add the screws. Repeat.

7) I next routed the harness piece for the oil temp sensor, again hiding it from view.

8) After both satellite gauges were connected and installed, I brought the main gauge cluster into semi-position and made the plug-in connections. With that done, I placed the cluster and bezel into final position and turned the ignition on to verify all gauges were powered up and working.

9) Some zip-ties and wire juggling were next, then gradually reinstall everything.

Bingo......

View attachment 424225 View attachment 424226 View attachment 424227 View attachment 424228

I further complicated (good complication) my gauge project by simultaneously installing a set of Custom Dynamics LED Vent Inserts....AND....a set of CD LED Sequential Windshield Trim. I got some things backward, and that was honestly due to a lack of comprehensive instructions. A couple phone calls with the good people at CD got me straightened out.

View attachment 424229

View attachment 424230

Looking good ST!
Nice write up also.
Mike U.


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[Jblohm]

I just completed the installation on a 2020 RGL. Here's what I encountered on that particular bike:

1) Windshield and outer fairing removal are a breeze, as expected.

2) I had to remove the horseshoe-shaped ignition trim panel under the ignition knob. It is not extremely difficult to remove IF you know how. It's a piece of plastic worth about $4.00 but if you break the very tiny plastic tab (hidden) you'll spend a lot more than that to replace it. H-D sells the black ones for $78....a crime against us.

3) The main gauge cluster will only clear the ignition after that trim piece (above) is removed.

4) I had to unbolt (5 per side) the speaker pods in order to access the back of the 2 smaller satellite gauges. I had to use plenty of 1/4" extensions to reach the gauge screws (3 per gauge) and remove them. I didn't drop any screws, but fair warning....it's easy to do amid all the clutter in there.

5) Each satellite gauge has a plug-in harness which goes from that gauge into the back of the main gauge cluster. You may need to get creative routing/pulling those harness wires to keep them hidden. I used a long piece of thin stiff wire.

6) I routed the satellite gauge harnesses (2) and left them in position to make connections. Connect a gauge and then position it to add the screws. Repeat.

7) I next routed the harness piece for the oil temp sensor, again hiding it from view.

8) After both satellite gauges were connected and installed, I brought the main gauge cluster into semi-position and made the plug-in connections. With that done, I placed the cluster and bezel into final position and turned the ignition on to verify all gauges were powered up and working.

9) Some zip-ties and wire juggling were next, then gradually reinstall everything.

Bingo......

View attachment 424225 View attachment 424226 View attachment 424227 View attachment 424228

I further complicated (good complication) my gauge project by simultaneously installing a set of Custom Dynamics LED Vent Inserts....AND....a set of CD LED Sequential Windshield Trim. I got some things backward, and that was honestly due to a lack of comprehensive instructions. A couple phone calls with the good people at CD got me straightened out.

View attachment 424229

View attachment 424230

Thanks for the write up. Good to know before I start mine.


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[StoneTrekker]

And for anyone reading this somewhere in the future: If you somehow break the Ignition Trim Panel (the horseshoe shaped chrome or black plastic piece located under your rotating switch knob) DON'T burn your money on the oem HD part. It's very simply a cheap plastic molding with finish applied. They are sold every day on Ebay for $15 and are identical.

You can send me $10 and still pocket the $50 saved.

 

[cpbedor]

Except for when you have a painted inner fairing and you get to send it out to paint for a month lag time and another $90....or so I’ve heard

 

[dbell66253]

Has anyone added the MBM-17 module for temp, compass, and altimeter?

 

[Bevis]

I just completed the installation on a 2020 RGL. Here's what I encountered on that particular bike:

1) Windshield and outer fairing removal are a breeze, as expected.

2) I had to remove the horseshoe-shaped ignition trim panel under the ignition knob. It is not extremely difficult to remove IF you know how. It's a piece of plastic worth about $4.00 but if you break the very tiny plastic tab (hidden) you'll spend a lot more than that to replace it. H-D sells the black ones for $78....a crime against us.

3) The main gauge cluster will only clear the ignition after that trim piece (above) is removed.

4) I had to unbolt (5 per side) the speaker pods in order to access the back of the 2 smaller satellite gauges. I had to use plenty of 1/4" extensions to reach the gauge screws (3 per gauge) and remove them. I didn't drop any screws, but fair warning....it's easy to do amid all the clutter in there.

5) Each satellite gauge has a plug-in harness which goes from that gauge into the back of the main gauge cluster. You may need to get creative routing/pulling those harness wires to keep them hidden. I used a long piece of thin stiff wire.

6) I routed the satellite gauge harnesses (2) and left them in position to make connections. Connect a gauge and then position it to add the screws. Repeat.

7) I next routed the harness piece for the oil temp sensor, again hiding it from view.

8) After both satellite gauges were connected and installed, I brought the main gauge cluster into semi-position and made the plug-in connections. With that done, I placed the cluster and bezel into final position and turned the ignition on to verify all gauges were powered up and working.

9) Some zip-ties and wire juggling were next, then gradually reinstall everything.

Bingo......

Thanks for the write up.

 

[vhmike73]

And for anyone reading this somewhere in the future: If you somehow break the Ignition Trim Panel (the horseshoe shaped chrome or black plastic piece located under your rotating switch knob) DON'T burn your money on the oem HD part. It's very simply a cheap plastic molding with finish applied. They are sold every day on Ebay for $15 and are identical.

You can send me $10 and still pocket the $50 saved.

Also, if you go this route (Amazon has the same part available for prices ranging from $15 - $30) remember to peel the foam out of the stock broken part to stick into the 3rd party switch trim. The knockoff parts do NOT contain that foam insert piece.

 

[StoneTrekker]

Has anyone added the MBM-17 module for temp, compass, and altimeter?

Which Dakota Digital Gauge setup are you thinking about adding the MBM-17 module to? I believe it's only intended for their MVX-8K gauges. Here's the pdf:

https://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/MBM-17.pdf

 

[StoneTrekker]

Well, I believe I stand corrected on the MBM-17 (as well as -09 and -19) modules. According to my written owners manual on the DDG MLX-8414 those modules can be added to that gauge series. I suppose the value of the module addition depends on how your bike is equipped in terms of that data being already available. For example: My 2020 RGL is factory equipped to read air temp, compass heading, etc. On my bike the new gauges show air temp. My BOOM GTS main screen show the direction of travel or heading via letter designation. The bottom line is to be aware what data you may already have available on your bike, and then decide if the extra module gives you data you’d like. Whew!