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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced the bars last weekend and have been riding for the past couple of days. the problem started with the blinkers, (custom Dynamics fire ringz with load stabilizer) would flash normally for 3 flashes then flash rapidly. I checked the diag codes and it was throwing b1121 and b1122.

I called up CD and was troubleshooting over the phone when they asked me to check the contacts in the front turn signals with my multimeter. I must have touched the side or grounded it out somehow because I heard a pop and the signal quit working. I checked the fuse panel and found that the lighting fuse ( item 19, Figure 7-7 page 7-9 of the service manual) was blown. I replaced the fuse and the running light rings came back on.

Problem is when I turn on the ignition I hear the fuel pump engage, I get the Neutral light, oil pressure light and running lights, head lights, tail lights, brake lights and radio, all gauges activate, but the tach and speedometer remain dead. No diagnostic window, no power to the starter, nada. I hope I didn't fry the TSSM/HFSM but that's all i can think of at this point. I replaced all of the 15 amp fuses, just in case, the 40 amp main fuse and swapped the relays around just to see if perhaps one of them went bad, but no joy.

Anybody have any ideas why my tach and speedo are dead and how to resurrect them without giving up and taking it to the stealer?
 

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Several fuses involved with the stuff on the cluster. Might want to run through them all and make sure they have voltage on both sides.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Several fuses involved with the stuff on the cluster. Might want to run through them all and make sure they have voltage on both sides.
Again, only the tach and speedo appear to be dead. Where would you suggest I start looking. I have already replaced every fuse on the left side panel fuse box.
 

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everything is plugged in fully? seems like a "duh" but it happens :p

Did you have to depin the plugs and put them back in? Are they in the proper spots?
 

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there is a ladder test in the electrical service manual that will walk you though the diagnosis.

Its based on what works and what doesn't.


So what works?

Back lighting?

Mil lamp, battery lamp, security lamp?

Speedo needle?

Odometer ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
there is a ladder test in the electrical service manual that will walk you though the diagnosis.

Its based on what works and what doesn't.


So what works?

Back lighting?

Mil lamp, battery lamp, security lamp?

Speedo needle?

Odometer ?
Thanks Thermodyne, At least we're now going in a useful directiopn. Since I don't have the electrical service manual, mind walking me thru this?

What works- Everything EXCEPT anything on either the speedometer or the Tachometer.

Both gagues and their attached functions are completely inop, no lights, no needles, nothing.

All other gagues work, the oiul pressure , air temp, fuel, and ammeter all have back lighting and the needles function.

Neither blinker works, but the running light rings illuminate. What I mean is The CD fire rings are LED assemblies that have a row of White led's on the outer ring and amber rows on the inside . The outer row serves as a running light and the inner rows as the blinker. The running light functions but the blinkers do not, the flashers do not.

I can hear the fuel pump prime when I turn on the ignition but the starter does not work

What does work - everything else!

The headlights work on both high and low beam
The horn works,
the speaker switch, acc switch, and cruise switch all light up leading me to think they also work.
the brake light works
the radio works across all bands and voulmes
 
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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Trace out the circuit that you blew the fuse on. You may have arced a connection open somewhere.

Several fuses involved with the stuff on the cluster. Might want to run through them all and make sure they have voltage on both sides.
Remember, I put over 100 miles on the bike after the swap. I was just trying to troubleshoot why the turn signals were continually throwing codes

Everything was working after the bar swap with exception of the blinkers throwing the b1121 and b1122 codes

I reset the codes and the bike worked fine until I hit the blinkers. Then it would throw the codes again and after 4 flashes they would speed up again.

All possible fuses have been replaced and all plugs have been inspected and reconnected and still no power to either the tach or the speedo.


This makes me think it is not an internal wiring issue.

It wasn't until I was troubleshooting with Custom dynamics on the telephone, and he asked me to touch one of the poles in the front turn signal and the side of the receptical to see if there was continuity. I heard the fuse blow and found it and replaced it.

It was then when I went to turn on the ignition again that I discovered the tach and speedo were both dead.

I then proceeded to replace every 15 amp fuse on the fuse board and tried swapping out the brake relay for the ignition relay since they are identical and if I had blown the ignition relay some how, replacing it with the brake relay would at least let me know it was bad, but no luck.

This is what makes me think of the TSSM/HFSM since both the tach and speedo and starter are integrated through it, no?
 
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At this point we only care about what works on the speed, which sounds like nothing. Basically we'll try to fix one thing at a time. And perhaps fix both gauges in the process. A note of warning, I using an 11 diagnostic manual, but as far as I know, the speedo wiring is the same as 13.

First up is the WOW test, which yours will not do.

So we need to check the voltage feeds and ground. On the rear of the speedo is a 5 wire connector. Turn the scooter off and pull the battery fuse before you unplug it. Then put the battery fuse back for the test. Same thing before you plug it back in, pull the battery fuse.

Pin 1 is an orange wire and should have battery voltage with the key on. It feeds through the instrument fuse.

Pin 5 is BN/GY or brown grey and should have battery voltage all the time. It feed through the battery fuse.

Pin 6 is the Accessory feed, and should have battery voltage with the key on. Feeds from the accessory fuse.

Pin 7 is BK/GN and is the ground.

Use a VOM to check these values, not a test lamp.

Now a little common sense:

The system has a fault code for a shorted turn signal, so shorting it should not have hurt anything. But the running lights and turn signals share three of the fuses that the speedo head needs. So before you pull it all apart, recheck those fuses with a digital VOM. Don't use a test lamp. TSSM's and ecm's don't like test lamps or analog VOM's.

Any electrical accessory's that were installed and not wired through one of the accessory/battery taps can cause issues. Since you were fine up to the turn signal upgrade, I might remove that stuff before I did the testing.

Killing the tach and the speedo at the same time would be difficult. But they do rely on some of the same fuses. Burning a circuit with a 15 amp fuse is real hard to do. Unless someone spliced it or added a crimp lock.

It really sounds like a fuse issue to me, so take your time, make sure the fuses are where they belong and verify the voltage before you pull the cluster.
 

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At this point we only care about what works on the speed, which sounds like nothing. Basically we'll try to fix one thing at a time. And perhaps fix both gauges in the process. A note of warning, I using an 11 diagnostic manual, but as far as I know, the speedo wiring is the same as 13.

First up is the WOW test, which yours will not do.

So we need to check the voltage feeds and ground. On the rear of the speedo is a 5 wire connector. Turn the scooter off and pull the battery fuse before you unplug it. Then put the battery fuse back for the test. Same thing before you plug it back in, pull the battery fuse.

Pin 1 is an orange wire and should have battery voltage with the key on. It feeds through the instrument fuse.

Pin 5 is BN/GY or brown grey and should have battery voltage all the time. It feed through the battery fuse.

Pin 6 is the Accessory feed, and should have battery voltage with the key on. Feeds from the accessory fuse.

Pin 7 is BK/GN and is the ground.

Use a VOM to check these values, not a test lamp.

Now a little common sense:

The system has a fault code for a shorted turn signal, so shorting it should not have hurt anything. But the running lights and turn signals share three of the fuses that the speedo head needs. So before you pull it all apart, recheck those fuses with a digital VOM. Don't use a test lamp. TSSM's and ecm's don't like test lamps or analog VOM's.

Any electrical accessory's that were installed and not wired through one of the accessory/battery taps can cause issues. Since you were fine up to the turn signal upgrade, I might remove that stuff before I did the testing.

Killing the tach and the speedo at the same time would be difficult. But they do rely on some of the same fuses. Burning a circuit with a 15 amp fuse is real hard to do. Unless someone spliced it or added a crimp lock.

It really sounds like a fuse issue to me, so take your time, make sure the fuses are where they belong and verify the voltage before you pull the cluster.
Nicely said @Thermodyne! To add one more piece of info regarding fuses. Be cautious of fuses that break on the leg instead of in the middle of the fuse like it should. If testing the fuse like normal, you would still show power like you would want to see but no power is actually making it through. Don't ask how I know of this but it may very well have happened to me on a job a week and a half ago.
 

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I would pull the 50 amp fuse, disconnect the ECM, wait 30 minutes, then plug the ECM back in and then 50 amp fuse.

I would also check the right handle bar switch housing to see if anything in there might of gotten fried when you heard the pop.

For the gauge, that happened to me once and I unplugged my speedo and tach and plugged them back and they came alive again. Its a pain in the ass, but unplug at the back of the speedo and tach unit. I couldn't tell you why it happened or what it fixed, but that seemed to correct the issue.

Good luck!
 

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Since you were fine up to the turn signal upgrade, I might remove that stuff before I did the testing.
I don't know anything about working on motorcycles. That being said, I retired from a job that required electronic troubleshooting all the time.

First question I would ask when the problem occurs is "what changed?". In this case, it was the turn signals. You said the new turn signals only 1/2 worked and threw codes. Before the slip with the meter lead, I would have said to put the original signals back in place and see if that cured the code problem. If so, the problem is internal to the new turn signals.

At this point, I couldn't guide you any further, because of the slip with the meter lead. I'd still put the original turn signal lamps back in, then follow the instructions in the trouble shooting guide. The guide does not account for the CD lamps. If there is a problem with the CD lamps, it could cause the steps in the troubleshooting guide to take you in the wrong direction.

Put the original lamps back in and fix the problems caused by shorting the lead. Once you are back to a known state, then reinstall the CD lamps and chase that problem. I've learned the hard way, that trying to troubleshoot/fix something that had been complicated by adding in an extra process always took much longer than chasing one problem at a time.

I forgot to mention. If you want to check a fuse, use the Ohm meter function of the multimeter. Pull the fuse out and attach each lead of the meter to one side of the fuse. You should read 0 Ohms or a short. If you see that the fuse is good. If you don't see 0 ohms, then the fuse is blown; replace it. Checking the fuses this way may take a little more time, but you won't slip and cause a short to ground, blowing up other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks guys for all the advice. Bike is resting comfortably now in the hands of the repair facility. I'm pretty good at turning wrenches but the whole electrical thing intimidates me, so.... I'll fill ya in on what they find.

Thermo, thanks for taking the time to walk me through the steps, but I realize that some things are just beyond me without going through a spool up period and actually learning how the electrical system operates. Perhaps a course or 2 are in order if I ever find the down time.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Short update, 2 weeks later...

When I took the bike to the dealer,(two weeks ago yesterday) to figure this out, I told him that I thought the TSSM/HFSM module was probably the source of the trouble, but that I had no idea how to test it. He said no worries, we'll get it figured out.

This morning, the Service manager calls to tell me that the technician working on my bike has exhausted all diagnostics except the one thing I mentioned from the beginning- Test the TSSM/HFSM! Bike is on the lift, in pieces, and still can't find out why the speedo and tach are dead. Asks me if I have ever jump started the bike with a car!?! Answer- Hell no, but did have their sister shop (same owner-different location) replace the charging system and upgraded to High output stator, last spring. Said he would pass that info to the tech and that he should have the TSSM/HFSM module test completed by the end of the week.

Bottom line, everything seems to work except the tach and speedo, (neither of which are getting any electrical power) and the starter switch.

All I can say at this point is Thank God for great friends with spare bikes keeping me in the wind while this gets figured out by the keystone service techs!

more to follow...
 

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Geez SFC - heartbreaking to see you going through this mess all over what should have been a simple upgrade to LED turn signals. Hope they get it straightened out for you, but I'm glad I'm not the one having to foot that bill. Really, best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's just money, right?








Did I really just say that!?!
 

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just a quick question on the leds. did you upgrade both front and rear? or just the front? if you did both, did you install a signal stabilizer? if you didn't, that'll be the cause of your signals flashing fast. hd didn't go to can bus on the touring bikes until 2014. i had the same issue on my cvo, which came stock with led in the rear, incandescent in the front. when i changed out the front signals to the dynamic ringz, got some weird electrical issues. sometimes would work fine, sometimes flash fast, sometimes throw a code, etc... added the stabilizers, and everything works as it should, and has been for 5 years now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
UPDATE:

Got the bike back from the dealer 3 weeks ago and haven't stopped riding long enough to update this post. After sitting at the dealer for 3 weeks with no movement, I gotta call from the service manager who told me that his tech ad discovered broken wire under the seat(yea right, only took three weeks to pull the seat????) and that after repairing the mystery wire the speedo and tach came to life! IT"S ALIVE!, Got it buttoned up and back on the road,

I guess I can't bitch too much as it only cost me three weeks of riding her, but my buddy graciously loaned me his spare 05 roadie to ride in the interim, so it's only the 2 hours of labor plus necessities, they charged me for a grand total of $215.00 to repair a broken wire.

So she's back on the road and running strong. BTW, the broken wire had nothing to do with the bar swap or the blinker issue, which was miraculously resolved as well by the mystery wire repair!

More on the bar swap on my other thread!

Stay windy my friends!
 
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