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Discussion Starter #1
I had the SEST installed by the dealer when I bought my bike, as well as SE Nickstick slip on, and SE Ventilator AC. I recently removed the cat from the head pipe and now the bike is running like crap.

Im not going to get into the rich or lean debate, but it has a lot of gurgling, and popping on decel, and while cruising the bike seems to stutter, and will not maintain constant rpm.

Questions are:

1. Should I take to to the dealer and let them fix it?

2. If I go with ^ option, how much is it going to cost me (estimate)

3. Should I skip the dealer, order the CD and cable to tune myself?

4. Should I do none of the above, and just wait until I can afford a PCV or PV-1?

Thanks for any advice. I am holding of on calling the dealer, because I get better answers when I go in person. I might go by there this weekend if needed.
 

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I would find out here who does excellent tuning in your area and have it properly tuned by a pro. The tuner you have can not be sold because its married to the bike so you might as well use it. I don't have the sert but knowing me I would have the CD and everything that is supposed to come with that unit.
 

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Since you had your exhaust off and disconnected the O2 sensors check to make sure they were put back properly. It sounds like they are reversed to me. :eek:
 

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Since you had your exhaust off and disconnected the O2 sensors check to make sure they were put back properly. It sounds like they are reversed to me. :eek:
i was thinking the same thing.
 

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I would rather do it myself than take it to the dealer. The ones that really take the time to do it right are few and far between. My dealer did mine after I changed the header and a/c, it ran ok but when I noticed it was running very hot, I bought the software ($50), cables ($50) and checked it out to find the heat management was "OFF", and my redline was set to 7000 rpm! I think the dealer just used a canned download to flash my ecu and didn't spent the time to Smart Tune" it like the service manager said they did. Dealer mechanics are under the gun to do it fast, under the prescribed time. I changed A/F ratios and retarded the timing a bit and it runs 20 degrees cooler, the heat mgt works and my redline is now 5800, and my gas mileage is still around 45 mpg.

I say, do it yourself, then if it still runs like crap, find a "reputable" tuner. (Check those O2 sensors to make sure they are in the correct hole)

Scoop
 

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Since you had your exhaust off and disconnected the O2 sensors check to make sure they were put back properly. It sounds like they are reversed to me. :eek:
I would follow this advice before changing anything else. The exhaust cats used on the new bikes produce minimal back pressure and removal should not make significant changes to the tune. Yes I know they produce a lot of heat, but not much restriction.
 

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Gurgle and pop on decel is due to less restriction in the pipe, the cat minimizes mix of reversion air and muffles the sound.

The stuttering could be lean miss, but I guess it could be the O2 sensors being switched, but without the Cat material in the headpipe the cross talk is going to be higher. Maybe it's enough to only be an issue under cruise conditions. Dunno...

Since you already own the SEST, pick up a cable and give it a shot. Certainly the cheapest route to take at the moment. BTW I only have experience with the original SERT (TTS), but I thought the newer SE Street Tuner was limited in functionality... but dunno for sure.

Proper dyno tune around here is $350-400 + cost of the tuner if you didn't have one. If you want to do the DIY tune, consider saving up for the PowerVision. By far the easiest route to take. TTS would be a good alternative as that's also what most pro tuners will be using. My only gripe with TTS is that you need to cart around a laptop if you want to do your own tuning. I've had marginal luck doing that in the past because of the vibration and laptop over heating with the lid closed... PV beats TTS in this area from a convenience perspective, hands down. If you go the route of getting dyno tuned by a pro, ask what they recommend.
 

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Since you had your exhaust off and disconnected the O2 sensors check to make sure they were put back properly. It sounds like they are reversed to me. :eek:
+1 -- I am going with 02's as well sounds like they are reversed.. I would swap them and give it a try, also make sure bolts are tight, gaskets are making a good seal, yada yada..

Just decatting the pipe alone wont make it run like that.

I had the Same issue and it was the 02 sensors
 

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A lot of self tuning PC's out there these days, I'm a do it yourself. Get to know your ride! Very self gratifying.
 

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When I swapped head pipes initially I realized I got the O2's mixed up too because they aren't marked front and rear, but rather G and B or some nonsense...
The G & B stands for Gray and Black. The Gray is front (lower pipe) cylinder and Black is rear(upper pipe) cylinder. They are not inter-changable and are keyed at the plug in.
 

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The G & B stands for Gray and Black. The Gray is front (lower pipe) cylinder and Black is rear(upper pipe) cylinder. They are not inter-changable and are keyed at the plug in.
Yep, realized it when I was double checking my work. The O2 plugs under the side cover were also swapped relative to the service manual...
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Since you had your exhaust off and disconnected the O2 sensors check to make sure they were put back properly. It sounds like they are reversed to me. :eek:
+1 -- I am going with 02's as well sounds like they are reversed.. I would swap them and give it a try, also make sure bolts are tight, gaskets are making a good seal, yada yada..

Just decatting the pipe alone wont make it run like that.

I had the Same issue and it was the 02 sensors
When I swapped head pipes initially I realized I got the O2's mixed up too because they aren't marked front and rear, but rather G and B or some nonsense...
This sounds like a plausible scenario... I really did not think about it when I put the, back on. I will try this tonight or tomorrow morning and see what happens. I will report back!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The G & B stands for Gray and Black. The Gray is front (lower pipe) cylinder and Black is rear(upper pipe) cylinder. They are not inter-changable and are keyed at the plug in.
^^^ valuable info here!!! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Just a thought I had.... When I took the head pipe off I did not disconnect the o2 sensors from the plugs. I just unscrewed them from the head pipe. Hope I did not damage the wiring by twisting them when I unscrewed them.

I am going to be taking the sensors off and switching them in a few hours. I will see if that is the problem first.

Any tips or tricks on how to check for exhaust leaks at the head flange? I installed the SE gaskets (brand new). I hope they are seated right.
 

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You can check the position of the sensors by:

cut the plastic ties holding the bundle of wiring for the sensors.
find the wiring for one of the sensors and follow it to the sensor.
check the color of the connector and the position in the exhaust.
using the colors defined in previous post determine if they are in correct pipe.
replace plastic ties with new.

by swapping the sensors without knowing the correct positioning you may create other problems and fix nothing. If you unplug the sensor wiring under the right side cover and free from the bundle you will not break any wiring. The plugs are color coded and are not interchangable (ie: gray will not plug into the black ) It's also possible you broke a wire to one of the sensors when removing the first time.
 

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Just a thought I had.... When I took the head pipe off I did not disconnect the o2 sensors from the plugs. I just unscrewed them from the head pipe. Hope I did not damage the wiring by twisting them when I unscrewed them.

I am going to be taking the sensors off and switching them in a few hours. I will see if that is the problem first.

Any tips or tricks on how to check for exhaust leaks at the head flange? I installed the SE gaskets (brand new). I hope they are seated right.
I did the same thing, twisted them in place. but I also removed the tie wraps first. The O2's are only turning maybe 3-4 revolutions as I recall.

My recommendation is to trace one of the O2's initially. Pick the black or grey connector and follow it with your fingers (not your eyes cuz they go out of sight). Removing the tie wraps will make it easier to trace. You should be able to see the cast B or G with a mirror and a flashlight. If it's wrong, pull em both out.

When you put em back. don't tighten the tie wraps too much...

Exhaust leak, use a piece of rubber tube one end to your ear, the other near the flanges moving around if it's leaking you'll hear it. Sounds like air escaping pffffttt
 
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