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Discussion Starter #1
2015 103. OEM head pipe de-catted. No adjustment to bungs. Screaming Eagle slip on's.

Plan at moment to go Arlen Ness, PC V, then dyno.

Probably the lower priced Arlen Ness, that re-uses existing cover.

Thoughts ?

PC V, Thoughts ?

Top notch Dyno guy. (DR. Dyno)

Get set, go....
 

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I'd pass on the PC-V. There are much better options. And with only going stage one. The FP-3 is a good option. If you're not going past a stage 2. No dyno guy needed. I have a decatted headpipe, FP-3 and a stock air cleaner. The Rushmore is hi-flow already.

The Arlen Ness air cleaner is more than fine. Air cleaners really are just a "what looks good to you." Part. They all flow more air than your motor can use.
 

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I'd pass on the PC-V. There are much better options.
I wholeheartedly agree. Here's a little story about the PC-V and me on the side of the road.

I was traveling on the outskirts of Lubbock, TX.. stopped at a gas station in Gods country, filled up with premium and was on my way to Amarillo. Going up a hill I noticed the bike was chugging a little. Arrived in Amarillo to meet my buddies and we discussed this "chugging". We soon concluded it was bad gas that had been sitting for a while.. the next morning we were headed west on 40, freezing my balls off, the bike started acting up again, only it was pretty severe, and only in 6th gear. Stopped at a station, changed the plugs, and attempted the ride again. By this time, my bike is trying to die while in 6th, no power whatsoever. I drop down to 5th and it is much better but not perfect. We located a HD dealer in Albuquerque NM and they determined the PC-V was shot and downloaded an HD map to get me on my way. Afterwards I had only a small amount of popping but the bike was strong again. I had S&S 551 cams, Arlen Ness stg 2 cleaner, V&H propipe (awesome) and the PC-V.. Together, they were best buds for almost exactly 2 yrs, until one day my PC-V decided it didn't want to play anymore.. my expectations were a lifelong friendship but that's not always the case. I realize there will be bad products sometimes, maybe I just got the bad one, but my confidence is shattered.. I bought the FP3 and loved that adjustments could be made on the fly.. I'd love to give you more input on that other than I've only heard great things, as 3 days after FP3 install I traded in for my RGU, which is awesome.
 

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Seriously, skip the old style tuner and go with an auto tuner. What ever brand floats your boat.

My recommendation would be a Thundermax, but there are others that will give good service. You'll need to have a set of bungs welded in, but that's not a big deal. Then as your upgrades progress, all you'll have to do is run some auto tune sequences and at most, flash a new map.

And after you get what-ever tuner on it, you're going to want to do the cams, that's what brings the 103's to life.
 

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On my 2012 I had decatted headpipe, SE intake, supertrapp stouts and PV for 3 years with no problems. I don't think you need a dyno with a stage 1. Another local dyno guy,if you want to go that route is Robs dyno Gardner, Rob or Dan.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the comments.

Given that I did not move bungs, I felt it best to eliminate the sensors. Thus, the PC V and dyno.

I may be wrong, but my research indicated that the FP3 would not work as well. More than a few, mentioning they later moved bungs, before getting best results.

My objective was to cool bike down, while still running well. That was accomplished. {Will post heat temp readings at a later date, as my current gun is broken.}

I have since been riding in full sun 90 degree days, for long periods, and right leg didn't feel like a buffalo wing....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I had decatted headpipe, SE intake, supertrapp stouts and PV for 3 years with no problems. I don't think you need a dyno with a stage 1. Another local dyno guy,if you want to go that route is Robs dyno Gardner, Rob or Dan.
Thanks ! Appears we were both typing at the same time.

I had watched Dr. Dyno work a few times previously. I am more than impressed.

Our houses in Laconia, are within 100 or so yards of two dyno operations. Their "runs" are miniscule, compared to Dr. Dyno's extensive all gears, full range of rpm's work.

Dr. Dyno (Fred) is from CT, and travels to a number of events. { At the Vous this weekend. }

Both I, and a friend that had his done last week as well, feel that Fred is the best, and when he retires, the MC community will have lost one of the best evha !
 

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On my 2012 I had decatted headpipe, SE intake, supertrapp stouts and PV for 3 years with no problems. I don't think you need a dyno with a stage 1. Another local dyno guy,if you want to go that route is Robs dyno Gardner, Rob or Dan.
Is Rob the guy with the Dyno in the trailer? If so he did my Sporty about 8 years ago and it still runs great.


Mike
 

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Move the bungs. It's cheap and eliminates the o2 sensor cross talk. On amazon the bungs are like $10 and taking them to a welding shop should be cheap.
 

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Move the bungs. It's cheap and eliminates the o2 sensor cross talk. On amazon the bungs are like $10 and taking them to a welding shop should be cheap.
Do you have a picture of where you moved the 02 sensors to on the pipes? I am planning on moving my sensors here pretty soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Update:

Just back from a 1,725 mile run from Boston to Cabot Trail in Nova Scotia, and back. Ferry both ways.

Sat in ferry line quite a bit. A few traffic jams in Halifax rush hour, Cabot Trail construction, and Peggy's Cove Saturday noon time blue hairs.

Lot's of back roads and high rev down shifted twisty's. Some 89 octane only. Some extended 90mph. Bike ran great, no heat issue.
 
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