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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I dive further and further into blacking my bike out, I have tried several different types of paint and powder coat. Here is some of my experiences, as they may help you.

First off, don't let anyone tell you any different, powdercoat is the way to go. However, if your like me you don't have any spare time to have your parts sitting at a powdercoating waiting to be done, and have a good enough memory to put your bike back together how it came apart when the parts arrive. One option is buying parts already powdered, but why buy more parts when the ones you already have on your bike are good enough. So, next option is paint.

I have used 3 different kinds of paints so far, and here are my findings. For high heat, up to 2000 degrees I used Rust-Oleum High Heat flat black. This is a rattle can, and is about $8 a can at your local auto parts store. This stuff really is flat, and doesn't match the satin look of the Harley Denim black. However, its holding up great for me on my head pipes and muffler. Time will tell on how durable it is,.. but the plus side, touch up is only a spray away with the rattle can. Just imagine your BBQ grille,.. this stuff is flat flat black. Cool contrast to the rest of the bike, which I like some contrast here and there to break it up.
On my primary cover, shift linkage, horn cover and air cleaner cover I used VHT High temperature Wrinkle plus. This stuff is good for 350 degrees, but takes some practice before you can lay it down really smooth. Its kind of finicky on how think you get it, and the thickness is what causes it to wrinkle. The wrinkles are rather large compared to the engine cases, but my HD derby matches up well with the primary that I painted. This stuff can be found at most auto parts stores, and is abut $9 a can.
The best stuff that matches up almost perfect,.. John Deere Blitz black. Again, I bought the rattle can. This stuff is $8 at your local John Deere dealer, and quarts are only $28 if your wanting to do a lot of stuff (keep in mind you need reducer and a spray gun). Right now, I am painting a few parts, and will post pics when they are done to show how close of a match the paint is. I don't think this stuff is made for high heat, but I may try a few engine parts to test it out. So far, I can't tell the difference between whats been painted using the John Deere paint, and what was painted by Harley.

***UPDATED with pics***
This first example, is the wrinkle finish paint. Notice how its more wrinkle then the engine, but mathes up perfect with the wrinkles on the HD derby cover (which I did not paint). You can also see some of the high heat flat black on the top transmission cover. Its a little off from engine, but you can't really tell in person, the flash really makes it look different.


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Number 2, the John Deere blitz black on the strut covers. These babies are almost dead on. From seeing this paint, and the paint that came on my hogg chopps, I think they must use the same paint because they match perfectly, which has a little more sheen to it then the Harley denim black.

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A shot from the side, but this angle with the flash makes them look totally different. This picture worried me at first, but look at the picture above, and see how different my saddlebags look from the fenders... see, camera trickery! It could also be the dust from sitting in storage.

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From the side, showing the pipes and muffler painted in the high heat flat black.





I can also give some tips, or a tutorial on how to prep your parts for paint if anyone is interested. I have been painting chrome for a while with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
And the last pic.. You can see the pipes, top tranny cover, and starter cover all painted in the high heat. This is a better example of what it looks like in person up close,.. but standing far away all the flat blackness looks to be the same. The air cleaner cover was painted with the wrinkle black. I also have the transmission side cover, and the cam cover in stock harley black (got some damn good deals on ebay), just waiting until my 1000 mile service to be put on.
 

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I'm curious too ....how do you prep the chrome????
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Clean it with degreaser, and make sure its really clean before you start to sand. Then scuff it up with either red scotch brite pads, or 400 grit sand paper. Then I apply an etching primer, very thin coats to bite into the metal. Then follow with paint. The trick to painting chrome, is making sure its super clean all the time. If you leave any oils from your hands on it, paint won't stick. The other thing to remember, spray it very very light coats, and only apply enough to have an even coverage. If you have a lot of build up, like a traditional paint job it tends to not stick as well. Next time I shoot some chrome parts, I will take pictures along the way and do a write up with visual aide :)
 

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Chainsaw,

I have been following your posts with great interest and I am ready to experiment a little. If it doesn't work I will find you - just kiddin' :)

What brand of degreaser and etching primer do you use?? I'm guessing with the same prep that you have outlined I can use gloss black paint rather that the flat and/or wrinkle.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Chainsaw,

I have been following your posts with great interest and I am ready to experiment a little. If it doesn't work I will find you - just kiddin' :)

What brand of degreaser and etching primer do you use?? I'm guessing with the same prep that you have outlined I can use gloss black paint rather that the flat and/or wrinkle.

Thanks
Here is what I have always used as wax and grease remover. I believe I purchased it at either WalMart or Autozone. It is made by Klean Strip, and is prep-all wax and grease remover. You just use a paper towel, and wipe the entire peice down. You don't wipe it off, just let it air dry (30 to 60 seconds it will be dry). Don't forget to wipe it down with your cheese cloth to remove the lint from the paper towels.




This is the self etching primer I use on everything from chrome, to bare metal. Its made by duplicolor, and I believe is the same as the prep-all, walmart or autozone. Remember, LIGHT coats,.. 2 or 3 of them to get a uniform coverage, but keep these light. Thats what grabs into the metal to get proper adhesion.



As with any painting, keep in mind you will get the best results if the part, and temperature is at least 80 degrees. What I do when its cold,.. hit my part with a heat gun before and after paint. Some paint I will hit with the heat gun for a while to really bake on the paint.

One more thing to remember... sometimes that wax and grease remover will also take off paint or primer that is not sealed. Usually the rattle can primer, it will remove the paint and you will have to sand it down and reshoot your primer. So only use the prep-all before you sand, and after you sand before applying the etching primer. Once the etching primer is on,.. do your best NOT to touch the *to be painted part* to much. Even clean hands will leave oily reisude, and will cause your paint not to stick. Just do your best to keep touching the backside, or where the paintjob will not be visible once the part is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No problem on the tips. I plan on painting my tail lights here soon when it warms up enough to get to the storage shed to take them off. I will do a pictorial write-up to help people like me, who needs pictures. :D
 

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Hey Chainsaw, thanks for the nice write up! I must say that I really dig what you have done to your bike. It compliments the paint job nicely. When are you planning on taking a pic of the other side?:rolleyes::D
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. I have pics of both sides, but in different stages. Once I get everything blacked out, that I want to black out then I'll take some pics of both sides. Here are a few I took not to long ago of the other side.


 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here is the last chopper that I built. I painted over a lot of chrome and aluminum on it as well. I built almost all of it from the ground up, and sold it to a guy in Hawaii.





This is what I started with

 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
And a little bobber I built a few years back... more painting over chrome and aluminum. I made it into The Horse Backstreet Choppers with this bike.





 

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Discussion Starter #14
by looking at those pics,.. I guess I must have a thing for flat black and deep red. ;)
 

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Is that a slant bike engine on the bobber?
It started life as a 81' CB 650, a fast little bike that would beat any V twin off the line in a drag race. About 110 to 115 mph the V twins would catch me, and chug along. But not even a friends big dog with a 117 Cu could beat me off the line.

Here is a picture of what I started with on it.




You can see my old Ultra in the back ground of that pic.
 

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As I dive further and further into blacking my bike out, I have tried several different types of paint and powder coat. Here is some of my experiences, as they may help you.

First off, don't let anyone tell you any different, powdercoat is the way to go. However, if your like me you don't have any spare time to have your parts sitting at a powdercoating waiting to be done, and have a good enough memory to put your bike back together how it came apart when the parts arrive. One option is buying parts already powdered, but why buy more parts when the ones you already have on your bike are good enough. So, next option is paint.

I have used 3 different kinds of paints so far, and here are my findings. For high heat, up to 2000 degrees I used Rust-Oleum High Heat flat black. This is a rattle can, and is about $8 a can at your local auto parts store. This stuff really is flat, and doesn't match the satin look of the Harley Denim black. However, its holding up great for me on my head pipes and muffler. Time will tell on how durable it is,.. but the plus side, touch up is only a spray away with the rattle can. Just imagine your BBQ grille,.. this stuff is flat flat black. Cool contrast to the rest of the bike, which I like some contrast here and there to break it up.
On my primary cover, shift linkage, horn cover and air cleaner cover I used VHT High temperature Wrinkle plus. This stuff is good for 350 degrees, but takes some practice before you can lay it down really smooth. Its kind of finicky on how think you get it, and the thickness is what causes it to wrinkle. The wrinkles are rather large compared to the engine cases, but my HD derby matches up well with the primary that I painted. This stuff can be found at most auto parts stores, and is abut $9 a can.
The best stuff that matches up almost perfect,.. John Deere Blitz black. Again, I bought the rattle can. This stuff is $8 at your local John Deere dealer, and quarts are only $28 if your wanting to do a lot of stuff (keep in mind you need reducer and a spray gun). Right now, I am painting a few parts, and will post pics when they are done to show how close of a match the paint is. I don't think this stuff is made for high heat, but I may try a few engine parts to test it out. So far, I can't tell the difference between whats been painted using the John Deere paint, and what was painted by Harley.

***UPDATED with pics***
This first example, is the wrinkle finish paint. Notice how its more wrinkle then the engine, but mathes up perfect with the wrinkles on the HD derby cover (which I did not paint). You can also see some of the high heat flat black on the top transmission cover. Its a little off from engine, but you can't really tell in person, the flash really makes it look different.


.
.
Number 2, the John Deere blitz black on the strut covers. These babies are almost dead on. From seeing this paint, and the paint that came on my hogg chopps, I think they must use the same paint because they match perfectly, which has a little more sheen to it then the Harley denim black.

.
.
A shot from the side, but this angle with the flash makes them look totally different. This picture worried me at first, but look at the picture above, and see how different my saddlebags look from the fenders... see, camera trickery! It could also be the dust from sitting in storage.

.
.
From the side, showing the pipes and muffler painted in the high heat flat black.





I can also give some tips, or a tutorial on how to prep your parts for paint if anyone is interested. I have been painting chrome for a while with no problems.

I was looking at your pictures of the paint work you have done and it looks great.

I wanted to suggest replacement joints at both ends of the shifter linkage that connects the heel/toe shifter and the shifter arm to at the transmission to Hiem joint ends. Harleys quality on these stock shifter ends for this linkage is lousy. I had one end fail on me and now have Heim joint ends that wont fall out of the pressed in socket

Just wanted to pass on a suggestion
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I agree with you, Harley really goes cheap with their shifter rods. That will someday change on mine, and good suggestion.
 

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Geez man, I'm not even gonna recognize your bike come spring!

:cool:
 
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