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Discussion Starter #1
Well I went down and got me one of those Actron compression testers from Autozone today and did my own comp test on my bike and I came up with 145psi front and rear when the bike was cold and then I warmed up the bike for 5 minutes and I got the same numbers. Put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders to check for a ring problem and the numbers did not change. The HD dealer said that they only got 130psi front and rear and the original builder said he got 170psi front and rear, I don't know how accurate my comp tester is but no matter what the comp is to low for a new stage IV build. I am still deciding on which way to go to fix this problem but right now I am waiting for my new Dragula 2 into 1 exhaust to come in.
 

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Subscribing to this thread also, ironmark I hope you get things worked out, this situation just plain sucks.
 

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Its a bad deal all the way around.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
you are opening up the throttle wide open when cranking,right?
Yes the throttle plate was wide open. On the TBW bikes you have take off the air filter to expose the throttle plate then you MUST UNPLUG the throttle control actuator so you don't damage the TCA motor then you can manually open the throttle plate and hold it open, you can hold the throttle plate open with a screwdriver or similar tool.
 

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Well I went down and got me one of those Actron compression testers from Autozone today and did my own comp test on my bike and I came up with 145psi front and rear when the bike was cold and then I warmed up the bike for 5 minutes and I got the same numbers. Put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders to check for a ring problem and the numbers did not change. The HD dealer said that they only got 130psi front and rear and the original builder said he got 170psi front and rear, I don't know how accurate my comp tester is but no matter what the comp is to low for a new stage IV build. I am still deciding on which way to go to fix this problem but right now I am waiting for my new Dragula 2 into 1 exhaust to come in.

Based on this, I'd move forward to checking cam timing. The 15psi between the dealer and your gauge doesn't surprise me, on a 200psi gauge that's only 7.5% which is to be expected with garden variety gauges.
The oil test tells us there's likely nothing wrong with the pistons or cylinder walls.
I'd be tempted to ask the builder to do a compression check while you watch.
 

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Perhaps do a leak down test now, to see if there are valve leaking issues, or a valve being held open, due to improper cam installation.

Jeff
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Perhaps do a leak down test now, to see if there are valve leaking issues, or a valve being held open, due to improper cam installation.

Jeff
The HD dealer did a leak down and they came up with 8%.
 

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The HD dealer did a leak down and they came up with 8%.
Yeah, but they also got 15% less on the compression then you,.. I wouldn't go by anything they said based on what you know already. Do it yourself, and you know its done right.
 

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Yeah, but they also got 15% less on the compression then you,.. I wouldn't go by anything they said based on what you know already. Do it yourself, and you know its done right.
+1 Chain.

Also, I see on another post that you're waiting for a new exhaust to arrive? That tells me that the old exhaust, and floorboard are, or will be off soon to do the exhaust install. While you're at that stage, it would be cheap insurance to pop off the cam cover, and confirm the timing marks on the camshafts, are where they're supposed to be. Will only take a matter of minutes to do, and cost you a cam cover gasket, and an oil change.

Jeff
 

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If adjustable pushrods are in there, I'd make sure they're all adjusted properly.

Jeff
 

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Well I went down and got me one of those Actron compression testers from Autozone today and did my own comp test on my bike and I came up with 145psi front and rear when the bike was cold and then I warmed up the bike for 5 minutes and I got the same numbers. Put a teaspoon of oil in the cylinders to check for a ring problem and the numbers did not change. The HD dealer said that they only got 130psi front and rear and the original builder said he got 170psi front and rear, I don't know how accurate my comp tester is but no matter what the comp is to low for a new stage IV build. I am still deciding on which way to go to fix this problem but right now I am waiting for my new Dragula 2 into 1 exhaust to come in.
You did unplug the compression releases and hook up a battery charger when you where doing the CCP test correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You did unplug the compression releases and hook up a battery charger when you where doing the CCP test correct?
I pulled the the fuses on the ACR and the fuel pump and put the battery charger on a 10amp charge while doing the compression test. The next move is checking the timing marks on the cams when I do the exhaust change. I would like to do the fix myself but since I am currently snowbirding in AZ I am limited on what I can do to the bike I already know the original builder put the wrong pistons in but I don't have the facilities or tools to tear into the engine.
 

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Did you have the build done in Az, or Mi, and the bike is with you now, right?
 

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I pulled the the fuses on the ACR and the fuel pump and put the battery charger on a 10amp charge while doing the compression test. The next move is checking the timing marks on the cams when I do the exhaust change. I would like to do the fix myself but since I am currently snowbirding in AZ I am limited on what I can do to the bike I already know the original builder put the wrong pistons in but I don't have the facilities or tools to tear into the engine.

Fortunately, if you have enough tools to change exhaust, you have enough to check the cam timing. You will have to remove the bolt on the rear cam sprocket to see the timing mark on the end of the cam. The marks on the outer chain sprockets will be in plain sight, as will the mark on the front cam.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
were they OK with a 8% leakdown?? I wouldnt be
Yes they were OK with 8%, they claim 10% is acceptable. I am not OK with the 8% on brand new top end. The top end has 1200 miles on it so the rings should be seated so I would think that most of the loss in the leak down was going through the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Did you have the build done in Az, or Mi, and the bike is with you now, right?
Had the work done in AZ and yes the bike is with me now.

Fortunately, if you have enough tools to change exhaust, you have enough to check the cam timing. You will have to remove the bolt on the rear cam sprocket to see the timing mark on the end of the cam. The marks on the outer chain sprockets will be in plain sight, as will the mark on the front cam.
I never checked the timing marks before because there was no need to when the bike ran good but I have inspected the outer cam chain tensioner so it can't be much harder to check the timing marks on the cams but any advice is helpful.
 
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