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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Guys if your bikes paint has rub marks or fine scratches 3M makes some killer products that can make your Harley paint look almost as good as new again.



These are the 3M products to use:
# 1. 3M Perfect-IT / Rubbing Compound
# 2. 3M Perfect-EX / Machine Polish
# 3. 3M Perfect-IT / Ultrafine Machine Polish

Use # 1 first to remove the bad rub marks
Use # 2 second to remove the swirl marks of the compound.
Use # 3 third to give the paint a brand new look.

Also make sure to use the correct foam applicators per each for step 1 -3 with your power buffer.

The stuff is hands down the best there is. I have been able to keep my bike looking like brand new.

Try it before re-painting your bikes.
Swomack
 

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Now if it just took care of the rock chips I may be interested. I think you get rock chips in the paint from riding the bike. :wink:
 

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Like this?

Guys if your bikes paint has rub marks or fine scratches 3M makes some killer products that can make your Harley paint look almost as good as new again.



These are the 3M products to use:
# 1. 3M Perfect-IT / Rubbing Compound
# 2. 3M Perfect-EX / Machine Polish
# 3. 3M Perfect-IT / Ultrafine Machine Polish

Use # 1 first to remove the bad rub marks
Use # 2 second to remove the swirl marks of the compound.
Use # 3 third to give the paint a brand new look.

Also make sure to use the correct foam applicators per each for step 1 -3 with your power buffer.

The stuff is hands down the best there is. I have been able to keep my bike looking like brand new.

Try it before re-painting your bikes.
Swomack
Are you referring to marks like these? :surprise::surprise::crying: Thanks for the info Swomack!
 

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BTW; this is the better looking of the two lids!!!!! Strange what full camping gear and 7,600 miles will do.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Are you referring to marks like these? :surprise::surprise::crying: Thanks for the info Swomack!
I would hit those lids with 800 grit wet and dry to start, then 1000 grit wet and dry, then hit with #1, then #2, and finish it up with #3. You might be able to save those lids brother. Depends on how deep those scratches are in that paint.
Good Luck.
Swomack
 

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Now if it just took care of the rock chips I may be interested. I think you get rock chips in the paint from riding the bike. :wink:
Then there's our Browning Mt story;

Back in the late 90's, a 2-up couple we met riding in Nevada by chance and formed a lasting bond. We've probably put> 25k and many stories, more if they woulda bike camp and didn't have their riding wasn't squeed '05.

So we stopped on the Res heading towards the east of 'going to the sun' then west.

The four of us went in to some desalate rest/cafe for brunch, didn't get served#/!
Came out to see these barefoot kids running away, they stopped, picked up hands full of gravel from the lot and tossing at us/bikes, a king and his ultra.

Jim being a vn Vet before my Vet time, returned fire/gravel, mine you now we ant preppy. And the girl's would let us stomp with nodded notice. Which known for.

It gets better!
We leave pissed, need gas but not before reaching out to the café few, which choose to distance from Jim & i.
Haft mile up we pull to gas in a big acre type station. The girls go to squat and we pull to the side.
2 pickups and a delapadated car wing in. There we 30 30"s on the racks.
As we preparedid waiting for our babe's they slung gravel hooping, and the girls in the car went inside.

I go to our girls as they are pulling these Indian birches around, I was proud. They didn't really need help.

Meanwhile, Jims already in display as we all mount, and mine I give to reds2. ..these fuck ers were drunk at 10 in the morning. The trucks did come close and sprayd slight.

As we got up a ways, we pulled to thank our girls for getting our backs..they didn't think it was funny. AS we mused about getting them Kevlar inserts for their leathers.

Rock chips, oh yea
 

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3M make awesome detailing products. Used it to removed fine lines on the clear coat. Brings the paint to like new condition. bad part is those spider web fine scratches come back as you wipe down after long trips collecting road grime. I use the waterless products to clean the bike.
Sure make a two time a year nice detailing well may be once, rather be riding :grinning:
 

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3M make awesome detailing products. Used it to removed fine lines on the clear coat. Brings the paint to like new condition. bad part is those spider web fine scratches come back as you wipe down after long trips collecting road grime. I use the waterless products to clean the bike.
Sure make a two time a year nice detailing well may be once, rather be riding :grinning:
I did mine over the winter, when it was snowing outside....
 

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Im not here to bash 3M or people that like there products. I detail for a side business and frequent the forums. Very very few people use 3M anymore in the detailing world, body shops still use them. I have some of their compound and it is "Rocks in a bottle". There are so many other compounds and polishes out there that I, and many other people, find that give better results.
For example, Menzerna FG400 cuts better and finishes down incredible. So good, on most paint there is no need to follow with a polish.
Before using any compound a test spot should be done.
With how soft Harley vivid black is, I own one, compounding is something I have never had to do. Polish, with the right pad and technique, finishes down to perfection. DA is all that is needed. My Flex doesn't have to come out for the bike.
After the paint is polished out, what is used to protect it? Proper washing and drying techniques?

Again not bashing, just my opinions and questions
 

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/\ /\ /\ /\ Thanks for the info good to know their is other choices.
 

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A bit too course for me.

I would hit those lids with 800 grit wet and dry to start, then 1000 grit wet and dry, then hit with #1, then #2, and finish it up with #3. You might be able to save those lids brother. Depends on how deep those scratches are in that paint.
Good Luck.
Swomack
I start with 1,000 grit and then 1,500 to finish. I swear by 3M but use other brands depending on who is paying for the work. LOL>:)
 

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If you know what you are doing, sanding factory clear is still very dangerous. Mike Phillips stresses the danger of doing this to factory sprayed clear.
The worst thing that can happen is someone that doesn't know what they are doing picks up some sandpaper and goes to town. Once you go thru the clear its over. I refuse to wet sand spots in a customers car, way to much liability for me. Getting a year old 5 series BMW resprayed would kill me. On any car that I will compound paint thickness readings are taken. Not perfect science but at least its better than a guess.
 

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Circumstances.

If you know what you are doing, sanding factory clear is still very dangerous. Mike Phillips stresses the danger of doing this to factory sprayed clear.
The worst thing that can happen is someone that doesn't know what they are doing picks up some sandpaper and goes to town. Once you go thru the clear its over. I refuse to wet sand spots in a customers car, way to much liability for me. Getting a year old 5 series BMW resprayed would kill me. On any car that I will compound paint thickness readings are taken. Not perfect science but at least its better than a guess.
I only color sand on fresh orange peel. I agree that doing so on vehicle with an older/unknown paint history is too dicey to do. You need 3-4 good coats of clear to color sand. Compounding/buffing is sufficient on old paint. You can get a fine wet look doing so. Followed by a GOOD coat of quality wax.

We all have our opinion on what products to use. You get what you pay for is all I can say.
 

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I only color sand on fresh orange peel. I agree that doing so on vehicle with an older/unknown paint history is too dicey to do. You need 3-4 good coats of clear to color sand. Compounding/buffing is sufficient on old paint. You can get a fine wet look doing so. Followed by a GOOD coat of quality wax.

We all have our opinion on what products to use. You get what you pay for is all I can say.
I agree its dicey.
I haven't waxed a customers car, or my vehicles, in years. With the pollen, dust, and everything else in Florida wax is a total dust magnet. Wax and vivd black in Florida is a bad combo. Ill use a sealant if the customers don't want to pay the money for a coating which last 5Xs as long as a wax down here. My Avalanche and my bike are coated and it is incredible. Nothing sticks to it, paint stays cleaner longer, water sheeting is incredible due to the water angle it creates. It is a game changer in the detailing world.
 

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Something New

I agree its dicey.
I haven't waxed a customers car, or my vehicles, in years. With the pollen, dust, and everything else in Florida wax is a total dust magnet. Wax and vivd black in Florida is a bad combo. Ill use a sealant if the customers don't want to pay the money for a coating which last 5Xs as long as a wax down here. My Avalanche and my bike are coated and it is incredible. Nothing sticks to it, paint stays cleaner longer, water sheeting is incredible due to the water angle it creates. It is a game changer in the detailing world.
Hey Phillyfan, I was stationed at Eglin AFB. NAS P'Cola was one of our support areas in case an military explosive was found. Obviously we had to respond and mitigate the problem.
I hear you about the pollen and crap. My allergies killed me down there. I was there 10 years between NAVSCOLEOD (Instructed for 5 1/2 years) and the 4 1/2 at EOD Det on Eglin Main.

I've never used sealant before. All of my cages and 4 bikes are black, so it might be the ticket. PM me if you would so you can school me.
 

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Im not here to bash 3M or people that like there products. I detail for a side business and frequent the forums. Very very few people use 3M anymore in the detailing world, body shops still use them. I have some of their compound and it is "Rocks in a bottle". There are so many other compounds and polishes out there that I, and many other people, find that give better results.
For example, Menzerna FG400 cuts better and finishes down incredible. So good, on most paint there is no need to follow with a polish.
Before using any compound a test spot should be done.
With how soft Harley vivid black is, I own one, compounding is something I have never had to do. Polish, with the right pad and technique, finishes down to perfection. DA is all that is needed. My Flex doesn't have to come out for the bike.
After the paint is polished out, what is used to protect it? Proper washing and drying techniques?

Again not bashing, just my opinions and questions

I thinketh you should put together a DIY thread on this , I for one , would love a good tutorial on a proper finish with something besides wax ..........
 

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I thinketh you should put together a DIY thread on this , I for one , would love a good tutorial on a proper finish with something besides wax ..........
Good/great looking paint is all about the prep work. For example, I could put my $200 wax on a unpolished fender and it wouldn't look very good at all.

To achieve that "3 foot deep" looking paint, takes time, quality products, and technique with the right machine. When I'm doing a car/bike these are the steps I do and it works for me.

1. Wheels, tires, wheel wells. Wheels are done with a product that dissolves the iron deposits, brake dust. I use Sonax Full Effect.

2. 2 bucket wash.

3. Iron X on all of the paint. This is to remove all of the iron fallout. If you have never seen pictures or videos of this in action look it up. Depending where you live results will vary

4. Clay or clay alternative. Whole car with the proper clay lube. This removes the remaining deposits that are stuck to the paint.

5. Tape off a area about 14in by 14in,(obviously this will be smaller for bike). This area will be a test spot for polishing. ALWAYS use the least aggressive product and pad that give you the results that you want. This is important!! After polishing the test area, wipe the area down with a mixture of alcohol and distilled water. This will remove all polishing oils and fillers. I use 3 different light sources to check, LED, fluorescent, and the sun.

6. While polishing, clean your pad after every section. Change pads frequently.

7. After polishing, my preference is to wipe the entire vehicle down with the IPA mixture or Car Pro Eraser, if I am applying a sealant. If the vehicle is getting a coating, 2 wipe downs is a must. If waxing no need to wipe down.

8. Apply wax or sealant. They apply the same way. Always apply THIN! No reason to goop it on.

** If you are going to go thru the proper steps to "Perfect" your paint, use quality microfiber towels. The cheap junk towels from the local auto parts store or walmart will mar the paint, i promise you that.


** For machine polishing, I use a Flex 3401 and a Griots DA. Rotary polishers in the hands of the wrong person will turn out bad. There might be 10 people in the whole world who can finish down black paint perfect with a rotary, and Im not one of them. 4in pads are what you want to use on a bike. No reason for pads bigger than that unless your doing a car/truck.

** Compounds/polishes. USE THE LEAST AGGRESSIVE FIRST!! I have lost count of how many vivd black harley I have done, a QUALITY polish is all that was needed to get the results I was looking for. Other colors I have found to be harder, harley must use a different type of clear on them. All of my products state "Zero Fillers". My preference

I think I covered everything. I know some guys are saying this guy is crazy for doing all of that, and I admit I am OCD about this stuff. But to do it properly this is how its done.
Hope this helps.
 
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