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Discussion Starter #21
I just went to the HD website and clicked on Shop for the Bike and looked up shift linkage for a 2010 and you can scroll down on the page and click on guide and then installation instructions and there it shows it on the inside. Must have been changed somewhere along the line. Most likely will work either way but it is more in line if it is installed on the inside up front.
MIne is a 2010 custom. The instructions with the linkage show it on the inside of the front lever but the head of the bolt that came with the kit gets jammed against the cooling fins.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Like the last few guys have stated the linkage is supposed to be on the engine side up front. If the bolt touches the cylinder fins on the up shift just loosen the lock nuts at each end of the linkage and rotate it in the direction that lengthens it (makes the threaded parts longer) and this will move the front lever forward a bit and should give you the clearance you need. Then you may need to re-adjust you toe shift lever if it brings it down too much.
I will give this a shot. Makes sense. Thought the length of the linkage on the new part was to stay the same as the oem part though.
 

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okay, y'all have got me all confused now.....

i just went and checked the instructions as rgken mentioned and it states "For all models except 1999 and later FLHT, FLHX, FLHR, and FXDWG: Place the rod end on the inside of the shifter lever"

so i went out to the garage to see if it would make a difference, and lo and behold, i've already got it to the inside on the front. it is still at a slight angle, but as per my post above, it shifts great and doesn't bind.

using the stock nuts that came with the shifter on the cvo, i am not having any trouble with interference with the cooling fins.
 

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Not sure it makes a big difference. When I changed to a Kuryakyn shifter rod I mounted mine on the outside at the front as like many have commented the bolt was real close the fins.

It has been on my 2010 RG for years with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Well, I notice that its adjusted full short. Can you lengthen it out and avoid the fin interference? You'll need to reposition the foot lever too.
It was close to full short; I had set it so that the attachment points would be in the same location as the stock piece. I have since turned it out to almost full extension and put it on the inside of the front lever. It looks like it might just squeak by the fins.

BUT NOW .....

Know any tricks for removing a stripped/wallowed out Allen screw? The head of the screw in the heel/toe shifter shaft cover (heel shifter is removed) feels like it may be stripped/wallowed out. Until I figure a way to remove that cap I can’t adjust the shift pedal and my shift peg is basically on the floorboard.
 

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It was close to full short; I had set it so that the attachment points would be in the same location as the stock piece. I have since turned it out to almost full extension and put it on the inside of the front lever. It looks like it might just squeak by the fins.

BUT NOW .....

Know any tricks for removing a stripped/wallowed out Allen screw? The head of the screw in the heel/toe shifter shaft cover (heel shifter is removed) feels like it may be stripped/wallowed out. Until I figure a way to remove that cap I can’t adjust the shift pedal and my shift peg is basically on the floorboard.

Go to Lowes, HD or about any auto parts store and buy a set of easy outs. They should be able to get the bolt out. The prior owner could have stripped it using the wrong sized allen head. Good rule of thumb is when ever you aren't absolutely sure of the allen head or torx bit size, find one that you think fits and then try the next size up to make sure. It is very common for people to use too small of a bit and it strips the head of the bolt.
 

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It was close to full short; I had set it so that the attachment points would be in the same location as the stock piece. I have since turned it out to almost full extension and put it on the inside of the front lever. It looks like it might just squeak by the fins.

BUT NOW .....

Know any tricks for removing a stripped/wallowed out Allen screw? The head of the screw in the heel/toe shifter shaft cover (heel shifter is removed) feels like it may be stripped/wallowed out. Until I figure a way to remove that cap I can’t adjust the shift pedal and my shift peg is basically on the floorboard.
You can try driving a torx bit into the hex, then backing it out. Some folks like to put red loctite on those pinch bolts, so some heat might help.

The inner lever has a pinch bolt too, so you can pull and put the shift lever and shaft on the bench where it would be easier to work on the wallowed out bolt.
 

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Wife bought me a pretty part for our 2010 ’Glide. Installation was simple - too easy, really - so Im looking for reassurance:
Harley’s bar and shield linkage will end up somewhat at an angle once installed, right? And that angle won’t screw anything up over time?
Its ok. That was one of the first things I put on my new bike and mine is the same way. I have 13,000 + miles with no issue.
 

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Mine is mounted on the inside. Web pic shows it the way you have it. Instructions calls for inside mount on the front. I’m pretty sure either way will work as long as you don’t get it in a bind.
 

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BUT NOW .....

Know any tricks for removing a stripped/wallowed out Allen screw? The head of the screw in the heel/toe shifter shaft cover (heel shifter is removed) feels like it may be stripped/wallowed out. Until I figure a way to remove that cap I can’t adjust the shift pedal and my shift peg is basically on the floorboard.
don't know if this is a change for 2019, or if they did it earlier, but having just done this to mine something i noticed is that the shift levers have been redesigned. where before you had a threaded side on the lever and you just tightened the bejeezus out of the bolt, they now have no threads on the lever itself, but a recessed area that fits a nylock nut, to keep it from spinning.

i know that doesn't help you get yours off, but maybe after?
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
don't know if this is a change for 2019, or if they did it earlier, but having just done this to mine something i noticed is that the shift levers have been redesigned. where before you had a threaded side on the lever and you just tightened the bejeezus out of the bolt, they now have no threads on the lever itself, but a recessed area that fits a nylock nut, to keep it from spinning.

i know that doesn't help you get yours off, but maybe after?
The pinch bolts I am able to loosen. It’s the tiny Allen screw in the heel/toe shifter delete end cap preventing me from repositioning the shifter. I’m going to mess with it Saturday. Probably will end up pulling the pinch bolt from the engine side of the shifter arm and sliding the whole thing out so I can put it on a bench and dig in to the stripped Allen screw.
 

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The pinch bolts I am able to loosen. It’s the tiny Allen screw in the heel/toe shifter delete end cap preventing me from repositioning the shifter. I’m going to mess with it Saturday. Probably will end up pulling the pinch bolt from the engine side of the shifter arm and sliding the whole thing out so I can put it on a bench and dig in to the stripped Allen screw.
That's a cap to replace the removed lever?

Prolly left hand drill bit time. Put some heat on it with a soldering iron then see if the bit will grab it and back it out.

Or loosen the inner lever and just pull the shaft out of the primary with the foot shift still in place.
 

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Twin Cam the front goes to the outside, M8 it goes to the inside the change was in 2017 when the M8 came out. That is why on the older pics it is to the outside for aftermarket or fancy HD shift linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
Thanks for the help, folks. It’s installed (front is on the engine side of the front shift lever). Every time something goes too easy for me, it is either wrong or broke so I’m glad this 10-minute job became a pain in my ass.

To test it, I rode 70 miles and got a cheeseburger from a place that has been owned and operated within the same family for 120 years. So far so good. And in addition to looking prettier, shifts are firmer now; finding neutral no longer takes an act of God.
 

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