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Discussion Starter #1
2010 FLTRX. 8,000 miles. It seems that my bike has developed some kind of slippage when pulling up a hill or accelerating hard up through the gears. It feels like a rubberband effect, it will pull then let off or 'slip'. It seems to have gradually gotten worse. I not sure if it is the isolated drive sprocket, clutch, or primary chain. If I hold the rear tire, I do have a quarter inch of play in the rear sprocket. Will be contacting dealer tuesday. Just wondering if anyone has had this experience. Leaving for a thousand mile trip on friday, I'm a little nervous. Thanks in advance for your response.
 

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+1 on the clutch adjust. Do it when the bike is cold.
 

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Any tricks on getting the derby cover off? Snapped my torx wrench off on the second bolt. Didn't want to strip the head of torx bolt so I stopped. I have taken that cover off on my wifes 2000 Road King a dozen times without a hitch. Impact wrench maybe?
 

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Any tricks on getting the derby cover off? Snapped my torx wrench off on the second bolt. Didn't want to strip the head of torx bolt so I stopped. I have taken that cover off on my wifes 2000 Road King a dozen times without a hitch. Impact wrench maybe?
Try loosening all the other bolts first sometimes this will help. I would not use air tools on this. Look at this link to Sears. Hand Impact Driver. Used this tool several times on less than cooperative metric bikes.:D

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947641000P
 

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I've had good luck with and impact driver. If you don't have one Sears use to sell a pretty nice one and Harbor Freight sells a cheapo that works for less than $10. I forget what the torque is suppose to be on the derby covers bolts but it does not take much more than hand tight.
 

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I've had good luck with and impact driver. If you don't have one Sears use to sell a pretty nice one and Harbor Freight sells a cheapo that works for less than $10. I forget what the torque is suppose to be on the derby covers bolts but it does not take much more than hand tight.
Torque is somewhere around 80 - 100 inch lbs.
 

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With all due respect I "Borrowed" this from another forum.

Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed. ALWAYS adjust the clutch on a COLD motor otherwise you could have shifting problems as the motor warms up.

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with light force.

3) After breaking the clutch lock nut loose,turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in with the allen wrench while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then tighten the lock nut in this position while holding the adjuster in place so it doesn't move. Easiest done with a "T" handle allen wrench.

4)Adjust the cable free play at the lever for 1/16"-1/8" free play and lock the lock nut on the adjuster. Slide the protective cover back over the adjuster.

You should be good to go .

Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
 

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I would tend to check the clutch cable adustment down in front of the engine first.
You should have about 1/8 - 1/4" freeplay in the clutch lever when you release it.
 
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