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Not sure what you mean by "thinking about lowering the clutch plate", I do mine as in the video, 1/2 turn clearance
 

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The adjustment is a fine line. Back it off more than 1/2 turn and it is a bitch to get in gear or push around with the clutch pulled in (clutch plates drag). Adjust less than 1/2 turn and clutch pack can slip under heavy load once it gets to operating temperature.

You are not going to hurt anything by experimenting, but unless you change the spring, or plates, or install some other device there is not much to improve in stock clutch area.
 

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Don't go 1 1/2 turns. The book say to go 1/2 to 1 full turn. I go 1/2 of a turn with good results.
 

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If the clutch feels good and there is no slippage then there is no real need to adjust it. Everytime I adjusted my clutch it didn't need adjustment and I was just wasting my time. I do check the clutch adjustment after any work that has been done under warranty that is done inside the primary, one HD dealer that did some work to my bike had the clutch out of adjustment and they did not put in enough fluid, that was the only time I had to adjust the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I know, this sort of topic is boring, I think I'll try 1/2 first,
I'm not making bank at the tT or anything, just sightseeing

but my feeling was, as with most things, there would be some independent though on the subject and that is what matters

good info
 

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I have been adjusting my clutch 1/2 turn and do get slippage when riding 2up. Which way do I adjust to correct the slippage, 5/8 or 3/8 turn?
 

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well Im fuct and stuck

dropped it down, still no engage after 2k rpm

is the whole plate gone? WTF
Unless the clutch has been slipping for a good amount of time, I doubt the plates are gone.

Here is the best method I have come across for adjusting the clutch, forget about the 1/2 turn,3/4 turn, etc.

1) completely turn in the cable adjuster (maximum slack in cable).
2) loosen the clutch adjusting screw several turns out.
3) with the clutch lever fully engaged against the grip, start turning the adjust screw in until you feel the clutch lever start to rise off the grip 1/8". (Use a light touch, you will feel the lever start moving).
4) tighten adjusting screw lock nut.
5) set cable tension with the 1/16" gap at perch (just like manual) using the cable adjuster.

Go ride.

This has been the simplest and most effective (repetitive) method I have every come across. Being the internet, I am sure somebody will have their faults with the method but it has worked fine for myself for 50K miles.
 

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well Im fuct and stuck

dropped it down, still no engage after 2k rpm

is the whole plate gone? WTF
What do you mean no engage? Slipping? If it's slipping you are running the adjustment on the clutch pack too tight OR, the cable adjuster is too tight.

Always loosen the cable all the way and squeeze the lever to the grip before you touch the clutch push rod adjuster. Always loosen the adjuster until you know there's zero contact. (the retainer will be loose and move behind the snap ring. Once adjuster is loose now screw it in gently, but snug against the pushrod. Now back it off 1/2-1 turn. I split the difference at 3/4" always have. Lock it down. You should still be able to wiggle the adjuster with your fingers. Now start adjusting the clutch cable and when you see the clutch lever move out to about 1/2 way point squeeze it and release it. Now finish adjusting to the 1/8" gap at the bracket. Lock it down, and squeeze the lever a time or two to make sure it's working right and the 1/8th gap remains.

Now if it slips under load and you know you've got a problem with the clutch plates, basket, mainshaft nut or the trap door bearings.

The helical gears pull the clutch basket toward the transmission under load, if you're adjustment is Tight, the movement will unload the plates and you get slip. This sounds like what you're experiencing.

Hey Roadie09 That's my technique ;-) I do it that way always. You just said it in fewer words.
 

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Unless the clutch has been slipping for a good amount of time, I doubt the plates are gone.

Here is the best method I have come across for adjusting the clutch, forget about the 1/2 turn,3/4 turn, etc.

1) completely turn in the cable adjuster (maximum slack in cable).
2) loosen the clutch adjusting screw several turns out.
3) with the clutch lever fully engaged against the grip, start turning the adjust screw in until you feel the clutch lever start to rise off the grip 1/8". (Use a light touch, you will feel the lever start moving).
4) tighten adjusting screw lock nut.
5) set cable tension with the 1/16" gap at perch (just like manual) using the cable adjuster.

Go ride.

This has been the simplest and most effective (repetitive) method I have every come across. Being the internet, I am sure somebody will have their faults with the method but it has worked fine for myself for 50K miles.
People keep posting this crap method, forget it. adjust it a shown in the manual, there's no need to try and reinvent the wheel.
 

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well Im fuct and stuck

dropped it down, still no engage after 2k rpm

is the whole plate gone? WTF
Did you tighten the adjuster screw in all the way? The reason I ask is I had a brain fart and did this once recently. Back the adjuster screw out so you can turn it with your fingers. Then run it back in till you feel resistance. Once you feel resistance back it off a half turn and tighten the set nut.
 
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