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View attachment 476922

Customer brought me his 2023 Low Rider ST 117 that his buddy “who knows his shit” put a Star 30-30 cam in, shorty 2-into-1 and high flow air cleaner on. I guess the guy screwed around in the map and claimed he had it dialed in. No other motor work. I just fixed his tune.
What needs changing to get that much of a swing in the torque? Crazy how the old tune dropped at 3900 rpm - like, right when you want it.

Can you please explain the two air/fuel charts at the bottom? What's the difference? What should it look like? (I'm guessing flat based on your tune)
 
Discussion starter · #202 ·
What needs changing to get that much of a swing in the torque? Crazy how the old tune dropped at 3900 rpm - like, right when you want it.

Can you please explain the two air/fuel charts at the bottom? What's the difference? What should it look like? (I'm guessing flat based on your tune)
kinda long winded answer…

So, in the AFR graphs at the bottom, the top one is the front cylinder and the bottom one is the rear cylinder. The dashed line you see in the middle of each is the stoich (ideal) value of 12.8. Above that line is lean (needs more fuel) and below the line is rich (too much fuel).
You can see in the HP and TQ graphs, as the cylinders start going lean, that’s when HP and TQ start dropping off. Lean causes pinging/detonation and builds heat. On the flip side, too much fuel does keep the bike cooler but can lead to blubbering, popping and sluggish throttle response. Smalls blips rich or lean randomly aren’t always a bad thing and sometimes can’t be tuned out due to cam lobe overlap (just one example). In a perfect world / situation, both AFR lines would overlap the stoich line and both HP and TQ would have smooth lines. There are all kinds of ways to cheat on dynos to get better numbers. Some of those ways are; 6th gear pulls, standing off the bike, lowering the drum load and increasing rear tire pressure. That’s why I always do my pulls the same way (unless noted); 5th gear, start sample at 2200 rpms, me sitting on the bike, 40 psi cold in the rear tire and 15% drum load. That way, the only variable I can’t control is the weather.
 
Discussion starter · #203 ·
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Customer brought his Eagle Eye Road Glide in today for a retune. Bike has a Harley 128” kit, TTS250 cam, extreme wedge air cleaner, Khromewerks headpipe with Neighbor Haters and a TTS map. I swapped the mufflers for Khromewerks with louvered baffles and retuned with Power Vision. Customer’s complaint of stumbling off idle and slow to respond throttle all gone.
 
Discussion starter · #204 ·
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Another retune from today. Bike already an S&S 475 and their catted 2-into-1. Changed it out for a Khromewerks outlaw 2-into-1 and retuned it. Picked up almost 17hp and 15tq.
 
View attachment 476955

Another retune from today. Bike already an S&S 475 and their catted 2-into-1. Changed it out for a Khromewerks outlaw 2-into-1 and retuned it. Picked up almost 17hp and 15tq.
That is so smooth on this one. Thanks for the great explanation above - wish you moved to the PNW and not where there are as many churches as gas stations in Texas. lol
 
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Discussion starter · #206 ·
That is so smooth on this one. Thanks for the great explanation above - wish you moved to the PNW and not where there are as many churches as gas stations in Texas. lol
Had to get out of the northeast and Midwest. Snow and cold weren’t conducive to year round work and high work volumes
 
Had to get out of the northeast and Midwest. Snow and cold weren’t conducive to year round work and high work volumes
I respect anyone that wants to work hard at what they like to do. Cheers, bud. fist bump One of my best friends and riding partners was here tonight earlier for a few Friday suds and he is a flatrate bodyman on Teslas and makes serious coin by bustin his nut day in and day out; he asked me to come in to his shop tomorrow to help him with some personal work and of course I said yes - but - I cannot even think of walking and working as fast as he does; I have me own pace.

Maybe one day I can get my bike down there for a good trip and get ya to do a before and after dyno rip - would make a great reason for a ride. I've driven all over Texas in the past in a car and being pasty Irish, it now sounds like a challange for the bike.
 
Discussion starter · #208 ·
@Zedbra I get it man. I’m the second oldest guy in the shop and I consistently outwork everyone else. I started here in July of 2021 and in Sept the dealership started giving the monthly top performers championship belts to keep until they’ve been beaten. Every department has one; sales, techs, parts, motorclothes, online bike sales and service writer. I was the first tech to win the belt and haven’t lost it yet. Lmao
 
@crazy4ink Murph I’m noticing you do a lot of work with or changes to the bikes to get them utilizing KWs. Is this preference or is it you actually see preferential results used by them?

on a side note CVO cans. I came across a set of the early m8 ones that have straight through baffles and not the crimped off bullet baffles. The part numbers for the straight thrus are
64900256 L Muffler
64900257 R Muffler
I like them as they’re not obnoxious loud and I figured they’d at least maintain some back pressure. Any thoughts on them??
 
Discussion starter · #210 ·
@crazy4ink Murph I’m noticing you do a lot of work with or changes to the bikes to get them utilizing KWs. Is this preference or is it you actually see preferential results used by them?

on a side note CVO cans. I came across a set of the early m8 ones that have straight through baffles and not the crimped off bullet baffles. The part numbers for the straight thrus are
64900256 L Muffler
64900257 R Muffler
I like them as they’re not obnoxious loud and I figured they’d at least maintain some back pressure. Any thoughts on them??
It’s a little bit of both. I have found that I can get more out of KW mufflers with their louvered baffles as opposed to other brands. That Eagle Eye RG I recently did; I took his Neighbor Haters off and replaced them with KW mufflers and louvered baffles and picked up a decent amount of both HP and TQ. But I also do get pushed to their products a lot since we are a stocking dealer of theirs, although I can’t argue the positive results I see. I like their 2-into-1 systems more than Bassani (they break way less) and I really prefer them over the shorty 2-into-1s that are flooding the market currently.

I have tuned a few bikes with the CVO mufflers and I don’t think they sound bad. If I remember correctly, those bikes still made good power, but probably left a few numbers on the table. Do I think they’re bad? No. Do I think they’re quiet where most people want volume? Yes. But it’s all in personal preference. I had a customer recently tell me that the outlaw 2-into-1 I put on his M8 is too quiet. Lol. And I’ve had people tell me to pull the louvered baffles out and put quiet baffles in.
 
Discussion starter · #212 ·
Is this the correct injector size🤷
For this application, yes. I was mostly listing the size because most times when people go with the 64mm setup, they up injectors to 5.5. I personally don’t think you need bigger injectors until you start getting to the 128” or bigger engine builds. I’ve watched duty cycles of the 4.3s during wide open throttle pulls and they never exceeded 80%.
 
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For this application, yes. I was mostly listing the size because most times when people go with the 64mm setup, they up injectors to 5.5. I personally don’t think you need bigger injectors until you start getting to the 128” or bigger engine builds. I’ve watched duty cycles of the 4.3s during wide open throttle pulls and they never exceeded 80%.
Thanks was just thinking that going up with air flow (larger throttle body) that larger injectors would be needed. Good info!👍
Keep them coming!

I know ya hate to be put on the line, but what cam would you do a stage 2 with in your own 114"?

Your magic with the 475 makes me believe that would be it, but seems like Andrew's is your blood.

So far the Andrew's 554 is my choice when I re-cam my SE 128 from what I have seen from your dynos.

Ride Safe and God Bless ✌
 
Discussion starter · #214 ·
Thanks was just thinking that going up with air flow (larger throttle body) that larger injectors would be needed. Good info!👍
Keep them coming!

I know ya hate to be put on the line, but what cam would you do a stage 2 with in your own 114"?

Your magic with the 475 makes me believe that would be it, but seems like Andrew's is your blood.

So far the Andrew's 554 is my choice when I re-cam my SE 128 from what I have seen from your dynos.

Ride Safe and God Bless ✌
If it was my bike and I was staying with 114”, I would do the Andrews 485 all day long. If I knew I was going to 128” or bigger and either ported heads with high lift springs or stock heads with high lift springs, I’d go with the Andrews 554 or Star F35.
 
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Discussion starter · #215 · (Edited)
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Retuned the boss’s bike today. Swapped the Trask AC for the extreme wedge, swapped the Maxcell 837 cam for an Andrews 554 and added the +4° crank gear. He said it spins the tire at 60mph in 2nd gear

Picked up 9hp and 11tq from where it was.
 
If it was my bike and I was staying with 114”, I would do the Andrews 485 all day long. If I knew I was going to 128” or bigger and either ported heads with high lift springs or stock heads with high lift springs, I’d go with the Andrews 554 or Star F35.
554 vs the F35 Dyno?
Which would be the quickest in a rolling 1/4 mile in your opinion? "Touring platform"
I had eyes on the F35 for a while until you started killing it with the 554!
I watch everything George of Star Racing posts, but have wondered if his cams were more for WOT and go!
My SE 128" runs perfect from bottom to top of rpm range with the SE tune.
Slow down to 35 to 40 going thru a town in 6th gear smooth and just hit resume and it takes off smoothly back to 62mph never jerking or lugging.
Gonna have you tune it as is and then a cam maybe next year.
BUT! I miscalculated how far you are by about 2 hrs! So over 7hrs away! But what the hell JUST RIDE!😄
 
Discussion starter · #217 ·
554 vs the F35 Dyno?
Which would be the quickest in a rolling 1/4 mile in your opinion? "Touring platform"
I had eyes on the F35 for a while until you started killing it with the 554!
I watch everything George of Star Racing posts, but have wondered if his cams were more for WOT and go!
My SE 128" runs perfect from bottom to top of rpm range with the SE tune.
Slow down to 35 to 40 going thru a town in 6th gear smooth and just hit resume and it takes off smoothly back to 62mph never jerking or lugging.
Gonna have you tune it as is and then a cam maybe next year.
BUT! I miscalculated how far you are by about 2 hrs! So over 7hrs away! But what the hell JUST RIDE!😄
For all around performance, I would use the Andrews 554 if it was my bike. Smooth idle, taking off from stop signs is easy at 1600 rpms but pulls hard until 5,000 and only slowly starts to drop off
 
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Discussion starter · #218 ·
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Fixed a customer’s tune today. Bike is a 2019 RGU twin cooled 114, 55mm TB and manifold, 4.3 injectors, high flow AC, S&S 475, stock headpipe and KW slip ons. I literally did nothing but make map adjustments and tune.
 
View attachment 477201

Fixed a customer’s tune today. Bike is a 2019 RGU twin cooled 114, 55mm TB and manifold, 4.3 injectors, high flow AC, S&S 475, stock headpipe and KW slip ons. I literally did nothing but make map adjustments and tune.
Holy dip, bet that customer will need fresh shorts when he gets done riding today. Nice work!

I'm sure mine could use some sweeting up on a dyno from the FM map. There is a new tuner in my area but I have no idea if he's any good. I'm not going to dish out dinero to an unknown when the bike runs strong.
 
Holy dip, bet that customer will need fresh shorts when he gets done riding today. Nice work!

I'm sure mine could use some sweeting up on a dyno from the FM map. There is a new tuner in my area but I have no idea if he's any good. I'm not going to dish out dinero to an unknown when the bike runs strong.
Road trip to Austin, lol!
 
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