Road Glide banner

1 - 20 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,638 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I couldn't find the other thread on this, so decided to start another one.

trying to chase away "CLUNK" and find NEUTRAL easily

my little ritual is actually working, brakes and wheels quiet, not backfiring, easy shifting
and finds N everytime. seems the bike responds well to long haul riding,
after having a couple days to cool, running better than new imho.


a. I reduced the amount of primary fluid (used a quart instead of 38oz)

b. began starting the bike in gear

c. replaced the factory linkage and adjusted it fairly precise (that I did on day one)

anyone else finding their glides manners getting better over time?

I have about 15k miles now, last oil change was 12k, all three holes.

can't say if it's start in gear, or few oz. less in primary, but I believe it's one of those two.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
363 Posts
To find neutral I've found it best to just shut bike down while I'm 1st gear then one click up it goes right to "N"
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,638 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Start using Redline's Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil instead of transmission fluid.
sounds like a plan - also the function is affected by hot/cold/wet/dry

just a thought to HD, why can't they cast in a windage tray for the outer primary cover? keep the chain bath a bath. maybe a safety hazard.

I'll try some redline gear oil - next time I see my redline rep.

bike is still running SWEET no complaints here
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Not a good plan,because of the extra strain put on the starter motor and battery
I start the bike in gear around 50% of the time and I haven't had any starter problems in 35,000 miles and the bikes starter still works like new.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,215 Posts
After i did the compensator it would shift into neutral very easily. Never really had a problem but a big difference after the comp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,638 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Start using Redline's Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil instead of transmission fluid.
are you using all redline?

Not a good plan,because of the extra strain put on the starter motor and battery
I know it's more churn, but am trying to 'get it where I like it'

my last bike didn't clink, I just forgot what I had done to make it stop going clink

I should try and call the mechanic

After i did the compensator it would shift into neutral very easily. Never really had a problem but a big difference after the comp
yes, the 2010 stock piece is all wrong for that motor, moco using up evo parts
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,756 Posts
Not using their motor oil, but only because I'm a fan of Brad Penn oil. I wouldn't hesitate though, they make great products.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
Not using their motor oil, but only because I'm a fan of Brad Penn oil. I wouldn't hesitate though, they make great products.
Mobil 1 75/90 gear lube in the trans works just fine and Mobil 1 20/50 V-Twin oil in the primary & engine. Mobil 1 products are easy to find that is why I use all Mobil 1 in my bike.


The 96" Twin Cam engine always had issues that seem to be starter related, but the truth of the matter is that the stock engine compensator sprocket is JUNK. Replace the compensator sprocket with the HD SE Big Twin Compensator HD part #40274-08A for $249.95 and it will eliminate any problems that you would think to be starter related (clunking, grinding etc, etc). HD put the SE Big Twin Compensator in the 2011 and later bikes because they finally realized that standard compensator caused to many problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,429 Posts
I couldn't find the other thread on this, so decided to start another one.

trying to chase away "CLUNK" and find NEUTRAL easily

my little ritual is actually working, brakes and wheels quiet, not backfiring, easy shifting
and finds N everytime. seems the bike responds well to long haul riding,
after having a couple days to cool, running better than new imho.


a. I reduced the amount of primary fluid (used a quart instead of 38oz)

b. began starting the bike in gear

c. replaced the factory linkage and adjusted it fairly precise (that I did on day one)

anyone else finding their glides manners getting better over time?

I have about 15k miles now, last oil change was 12k, all three holes.

can't say if it's start in gear, or few oz. less in primary, but I believe it's one of those two.
I maybe wrong but I thought HD CLUNKS were endangered species?:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,638 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Yup me to changed compensator to a screaming eagle and much much better!
I've fooled around too much at this point to get it done in the next 5 days.

since my bike is under warranty, I've been practicing, triple pump, clutch braking, and it has been having an affect on the compensator. I believe in a good way, all speculation, as the normal 1st gear WAAAAAA has lessenen quite a bit and actuall become tame, REE ROTT. ( highly technical terms )

but a usable energy.

I maybe wrong but I thought HD CLUNKS were endangered species?:D
yes, along with the yellow bellied tit cock

Shockproof heavy works fine for me. Just don't spill it in the garage because it smells pretty strong. And I start mine in gear too and it's going on 7 years old. Maybe that's bad, but then I don't eat right or get enough exercise, either.
that and MerconV ~ gawd the stench


explanation:

triple pump braking as taught by MSF instructor at CalPoly Pomona:
( former CHP, long story )

people in general, I find really get a charge out of thinking their cage is going to get in your way out on the roads.

actually BROKE my front master cyclinder on my 93 heritage, avoiding a MB driver
who whooshed around me and slammed on their brakes.

compression braking: objective, perfect world, only need apply brakes from 20mph and under, thus saving the life of your brakes a bit

single pull downshifting works fine in most cases, which is, up shift, then down shfit, bike slows down, repeat

BUT what if your stopping distance is altered? triple tap emergency braking routine.

several hours should be spent on this on your own before deciding to RELY on it in heavy traffic. or use it around other motorists.

If you get it wrong, it's biker down.

for me I use 3 pulls in 2 second, 1,2,3-downshift

sometimes, depending on the severity of the stop, might take repeating down through the gears.

if you have to try this technique using first gear, practice it well and or know your bike, WARNING, can have unfavorable results, i.e. tight assed compensator.

I just hate wearing out the brakes. In case I really need them for an emergency.

(( just another note: after a while this can also be subtle, which is where I'm at now, so it gets fun, and I want to share ))
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
781 Posts
How hard is it to change out the compensator?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,042 Posts
Not a good plan,because of the extra strain put on the starter motor and battery
Please explain where the extra strain comes from??
Seems to me starting in gear is less stress, you have the clutch disengaged, so half of it is not turning, plus the input side of the trans is not turning.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,572 Posts
It isn't that hard to do but you need to either buy or make the compensator/clutch locking tool which is just a 1/4" plate cut to the right length and beveled. The HD dealer or a indy should only charge you a 1hr labor to do the change so if you can swing the extra coin have them do it. Get a hold of PC Pain for the best price on parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,215 Posts
How hard is it to change out the compensator?
Not bad to do. Theres a short cut to doing it that will save time and few bucks too. The service manual says you need to pull the primary completely of the bike but you can get away with a grinding technic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,638 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
How hard is it to change out the compensator?
there was a great video on here a while back

by the time i ordered the part, I'd get it thu and be planning on being packed to leave fri night

this is my new #1 on list of mods

Not bad to do. Theres a short cut to doing it that will save time and few bucks too. The service manual says you need to pull the primary completely of the bike but you can get away with a grinding technic.
it looked fairly simple.
 
1 - 20 of 32 Posts
Top