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Discussion Starter #1
Headed for 3 day trip. Started out with battery & engine lights coming on. After 38 miles the volt gauge started to drop from 14 to 8 (not good). Pulled over, checked cables and all tight. Bike would not restart. AAA called (a horror & 3 hour wait). Out come: 4 yr old battery replaced along with a voltage regulator and $450.78 at dealer. Fixed the next day in about 1 hour. Met the guys a day late, good time and bike ran perfect.
Battery was always on tender but was starting to slow start and I did have same lights on once before put went out after aprrox. an hour or two ride.
 

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i was 2 hours from home 3 weeks ago. we stopped for lunch. went to leave and battery was dead. made the 3 mile walk to the closest autozone and bought the only battery they had which was 128.00 walked back and installed it and off we went. it happens.
i ride the bike everyday to work ,minus rain days. never had an issue with it, but it was 4 1/2 years old.
 

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I also probably could have needed just a battery also. They did push the regulator on me since I was going on the trip. Help pay for their overhead!
 

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Damn I miss the slow semi-predictable death of the old lead acid batteries ... Always seemed to give plenty of warning back in the day.



That and bump starting, man that was always handy in a pinch. I don't even know if it's possible with these new EFI bikes...I suspect not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
With electronic ignition and a dead battery I do not believe you can bump start a bike.
 

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My Voltage Regulator went out up in northern Arizona in the middle of flipp'in nowhere. Feel your pain but at least your back on the road pretty quick.
 

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I know that jump starting a bike from a car can be really bad so I would normally be very skeptical about using a jump starter designed for a car battery on my bike. Looks like this one says it works with motorbikes, snowmobiles, and ATV's etc... so this could be a good one have. Thanks for posting this!
 

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I know that jump starting a bike from a car can be really bad so I would normally be very skeptical......
I've read a lot of the same horror stories, but on the flip side we've had to jump start two 2015s that had us stranded out on the road, with nothing but a helpful motorist to lend a hand both times. I guess we were lucky in that we didn't tear anything up in those situations. I go directly to starter with the positive lead of the jumper cable and then ground the negative lead on the frame. Haven't ever tried it going directly to the battery.
 

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I've read a lot of the same horror stories, but on the flip side we've had to jump start two 2015s that had us stranded out on the road, with nothing but a helpful motorist to lend a hand both times. I guess we were lucky in that we didn't tear anything up in those situations. I go directly to starter with the positive lead of the jumper cable and then ground the negative lead on the frame. Haven't ever tried it going directly to the battery.
Sometimes you have to do what you have to do and as long as you take the cables off right away it may keep from any damage happening. I've actually been successful myself but have had 2 buddies that weren't so maybe it's luck sometimes.
 

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I know that jump starting a bike from a car can be really bad so I would normally be very skeptical about using a jump starter designed for a car battery on my bike. Looks like this one says it works with motorbikes, snowmobiles, and ATV's etc... so this could be a good one have. Thanks for posting this!
Sooo to explain a little about why jumping a bike from a car is bad and how to minimize risk or at least from my little peanut head. (I am an electrician by trade and dabble in UPS/large battery systems) The stator actually puts out A/C voltage and the regulator is actually more like a rectifier than a regulator on a motorcycle. When you connect a car to a motorcycle the 100+ amp alternator and larger battery try to charge both car and bike forces D/C current through the regulator into the opposing A/C when you start the bike.

To jump from a car in a pinch if it was me I would connect the car not running to the bike, then I would let the battery parasite charge the bike for like 15 minutes and then disconnect to try to start. If that doesn't work I would jump from the car with the car not running and as soon as the bike fires off disconnect the cables.

These little jump boxes are the best solution. I toss mine in the tour pack and plug it to the power port to keep it charged.
 

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Like was already said, if you have to jump start from a car or truck, in a pinch, make sure the car/truck isn't running. Once the bike fires off, pull the jumper cables off a quick as possible. we have some small handheld jump boxes at the shop just for things like that. I have one that I carry with me whenever I go on a long roadtrip. Never know when I might need it for myself or to help someone else out.
 
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