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Discussion Starter #1
I must say that selecting cams is NOT my in my bag of tricks.... and I need some solid advice on selection.

Im a fairly aggressive rider... I like 3000 rpms and up as of right now and I think that is because I am in the powerband of the SE259E cams. I would like a bit more bottom end as it feels sluggish below 3000rpms.

I ride 2 up when my wife goes with me, but don't make this a factor as its only 10-20% of the time.

I have the 120ST crate motor from HD... its in the shop, torn down right now for oil consumption..rings, valve guide seals and scoring on the walls so far..... and figured since I'm into it, may as well upgrade the cams at this point and save some coin.

I don't want to do additional headwork right now ( maybe never ) and I would like to not have to change out my springs or do any clearancing if needed for said cams.

additional info... Power Vision tuner with Target Tune... 1074X Thunder Header and SE Chiseled extreme AC....

So... what's your advice? I have looked at a few in comparison... but seem to be confusing myself more, since my cam knowledge is not where it should be to make an educated decision on my own.

Thanks guys.. I do appreciate the input.....
 

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I would ask dragos or hillside for a low end cam my compression is 11 to 1 and i wanted to run a low end cam like a s&s 551 but the told me i had to much compression i ended up with a 585 cam the bike turns on at 2500 rpm and up i had 5 sets ofs&s cams but had to buy the 585 cams i am thinking of running the s&s 640 cams but for now stay with the 585
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Not a builder but heard of some great results with 120's running woods TW9B-6
I have heard that as well...thanks. I think that is used in FM'S 124 kit...
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Yeah... thanks.... I have been eye-balling this one... just not sure yet....
If you find a woods grind that you like, go to T-man performance. He pretty well copies Woods but has a less aggressive grind on the back side which softens the slamming of the valves and has a lot quieter valve train noise because of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you find a woods grind that you like, go to T-man performance. He pretty well copies Woods but has a less aggressive grind on the back side which softens the slamming of the valves and has a lot quieter valve train noise because of it.
Very good advice. Thanks. They are still specing things out on the damage... once I find out the details ( if cams are warranted) I may be able to swing a deal of offsetting the cost.

Thanks again
 

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'Not a Builder, not now anyway...

'Have the T-Man 625s in "The Short Bus" they come in much earlier than the 259s, 120 ftlbs at 2200, start to fall off at 5900, quiet, pulls very well throughout the entire RPM range, 10.4 static... TR recommends 10.2-10.6

A great all around bagger performance cam, I will use nothing else in future Builds...

'Giving 120s & 124s nightmares... PRICELESS >:)
 
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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
'Not a Builder, not now anyway...

'Have the T-Man 625s in "The Short Bus" they come in much earlier than the 259s, 120 ftlbs at 2200, start to fall off at 5900, quiet, pulls very well throughout the entire RPM range, 10.4 static... TR recommends 10.2-10.6

A great all around bagger performance cam, I will use nothing else in future Builds...

'Giving 120s & 124s nightmares... PRICELESS >:)
Great details! Thanks a lot! that's what I like to hear.....

This is on the site:

T-Man 625
This cam is a good fit for 74” to 88” motors with 10.2-10.8 compression. It will deliver a smooth torque and power curve from 2400 rpm and still make power past 6000 rpm

So... how do I know this is a good fit for my 120? I see the SHORT BUS is a 117.... so this might be a stupid question.... but still need to ask
 

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Great details! Thanks a lot! that's what I like to hear.....

This is on the site:

T-Man 625
This cam is a good fit for 74” to 88” motors with 10.2-10.8 compression. It will deliver a smooth torque and power curve from 2400 rpm and still make power past 6000 rpm

So... how do I know this is a good fit for my 120? I see the SHORT BUS is a 117.... so this might be a stupid question.... but still need to ask
This is the description i found;
T-Man 625 -

As far as being a good fit, if your compression is in the recommended range and the heads, valves, springs etc will accommodate the the 625s, you should get close to the same curves, with (potentially) higher #s... When opting for the 625s, it made sense to use T-Man CVO Street Performer Heads, so TR set all that up for me, just had to tell him what pistons were used. I'm sure that he could tell you what/if your heads need anything... or break out the clay...

When i look at dyno sheets, I evaluate the curves first, #s second, 'Saw a few sheets and got some feedback on the 625s, it was an easy decision for me, 30k miles later and the only thing that I'm thinking about changing is the oil...

We all know (or should know?? lol) that the pipe is a significant factor, "The Short Bus" does not have an optimal pipe for the big HP#s, V&H PowerDuals, RSD Tracker Slipons, 1.75 baffels, sure they help my TQ come in earlier, and cause the cams to fall off a little sooner, 5900, they gotta be hurtin' the HP and peak TQ#s...

Yet when strolling in the upper stratosphere with a 124HC, near identical bike with an optimal pipe, 2-1, I'm expecting the 7" & the 640s to come on and start walking away, not the case... and I'm giving up 70lbs...rolling on from lower RPMs going through the gears, fuggetaboutit... I don't even count the guy with the 120R StreetGlide, after all, it's just a bat...
 
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Discussion Starter #12
This is the description i found;
T-Man 625 -

As far as being a good fit, if your compression is in the recommended range and the heads, valves, springs etc will accommodate the the 625s, you should get close to the same curves, with (potentially) higher #s... When opting for the 625s, it made sense to use T-Man CVO Street Performer Heads, so TR set all that up for me, just had to tell him what pistons were used. I'm sure that he could tell you what/if your heads need anything... or break out the clay...

When i look at dyno sheets, I evaluate the curves first, #s second, 'Saw a few sheets and got some feedback on the 625s, it was an easy decision for me, 30k miles later and the only thing that I'm thinking about changing is the oil...

We all know (or should know?? lol) that the pipe is a significant factor, "The Short Bus" does not have an optimal pipe for the big HP#s, V&H PowerDuals, RSD Tracker Slipons, 1.75 baffels, sure they help my TQ come in earlier, and cause the cams to fall off a little sooner, 5900, they gotta be hurtin' the HP and peak TQ#s...

Yet when strolling in the upper stratosphere with a 124HC, near identical bike with an optimal pipe, 2-1, I'm expecting the 7" & the 640s to come on and start walking away, not the case... and I'm giving up 70lbs...rolling on from lower RPMs going through the gears, fuggetaboutit... I don't even count the guy with the 120R StreetGlide, after all, it's just a bat...
Thanks for the details! huh... wonder why we found different 'details' on their website.... AH HA!!! I know why... I was in under sporters.... my bad.

Much appreciated!
 
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