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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started using a lot of oil on my trip to Texas for shark week. It's not leaking. It is blowing out the breathers, and probably burning some. I believe it is a wet sump condition. The motor seemed a little sluggish as well. Did a leak down test on a cold motor and had 7% loss in the rear cylinder and 9% in the front. I assume the results would improve on a hot engine, but please correct me if I'm wrong. These numbers appear ok to me. The oil pressure also was low to me. Running down the interstate at 2800-2900 rpm's I would have between 16 & 20 psi. I am using a Feuling Camchest and oil pump.

I pulled the camchest today and expected to find something obvious, but did not. The o-rings all appeared to be good without wear and nothing pinched. I did a crank run out check while there and had .001, so good there. I noticed scoring on the flywheel behind the cam bearing. It's about a 1/2" wide scoring mark around the whole diameter of the flywheel. I get metal on the magnet of my reusable oil filter every change and I wonder if this is where it is coming from.

Any idea what would be causing this?
 

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Looks to be the right width to be a bolt a little too long for the hole it's in. Any cam chest bolts look funny on the end? Maybe the trash from the scoring also scored the cylinder walls enough to cause poor oil control with still decent compression?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nothing from the camchest side goes that far in. It has to be something from inside the case. I thought perhaps the piston oil mister, but it is located too high to be that mark I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The cams are clean on the end nothing rubbing them. The crankshaft is not the original one so it is possible the scoring marks were there before it went in my bottom end, but I don't recall noticing it before.
 

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Brush a thin layer of grease on the mark and rotate the crank. If the grease comes out unmarked, it's old damage
I would do this and also rotate the crank while pushing side to side. Just to make sure you don't have a bearing on the fly wheel going out. As for the oil pressure, my bike dropped pressure a couple years ago like yours did. A new oil pump and all was well. If I am not mistaking, the service manual has specs to measure to trouble shoot the pump.
 

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If I remember right I think you mentioned that you had a aftermarket oil pump.
I would swap out the oil pump and put the stock pump in then check and see if your oil psi returns to normal. The scoring on the crank is in line with the cams but does it also line up with the opening that the oil pump stem goes into? If it does then there may be a issue with the oil pump that may cause the scoring and it may affect the oil psi too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I put some grease on the marks and rotated the engine and they did not get smeared at all. The only way it can be hitting something is if there is a wobble of some type when the engine is running. I pulled on the crankshaft and it feels good and solid. No lateral movement while turning. I took the primary side apart as well just to be sure.

You are correct Mark. I have a Feuling oil pump and cam chest. I had the same thought of putting the old one back in along with an Axtell bypass spring.
 

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Agreed, solution looking for a problem............
Pull the oil pump apart and check the gerators for wear. Since the oil pressure was down at cruising, something isn't right. I run anywhere from 35 psi and up with my Fueling oil pump. Put new o-rings everywhere also. Check all passages and clean. Make sure by-pass works and not stuck. That's all I got for ya.
 

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Did you swap out the oil pump yet and if you did what was the result?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'd install the OE pump/plate.
Scott
That's what I am going to do.

Did you swap out the oil pump yet and if you did what was the result?
Not yet. Had too many things going on to get back to it and I'm headed out of town. I need to get new gaskets before I can reassemble also. I should get it back together sometime next week. I'll report back once I do. After further review and discussion with others I believe the cams are what caused the marks on the flywheels. There are no marks on the cams, but after doing some measuring and inspecting the camplate real well I think that was the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I got delayed putting it back together, but it is done and managed to go for a short ride tonight. The motor is quieter than it has ever been since doing the 107", cams, and heads. I believe the Feuling camplate and oil pump might have had an issue right out of the box and it took me a while to realize it. I had a fair amount of top end valve train noise and it is mostly gone now. I don't think I was getting good oil flow to the top end. There is a noticeable difference in power too.

I put the stock camplate and oil pump back in and replaced the gerators in the oil pump and
added the Axtell bypass valve. I also replaced the cam bearings while I was there. I replaced the butterfly valves and breather gaskets to try and cover all bases. I'll take a nice ride tomorrow and keep a check on the oil level (and my side cover) to be sure it is all fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I spoke to soon

While things were looking up last night the motor took a turn for the worse today. I went for a longer ride and the oil pressure got down to between 10 & 12lbs while cruising on the interstate at about 2800 rpm's. The top end rattling is back as well. I pulled off after about 30-miles to get fuel and the pressure dropped so low when I pulled up to the pump that the oil dummy light came on at idle.

Decided to let it cool down a few minutes and head back for home. I also noticed the oil cooler fan kicked on while on the highway headed back. The fan for the cooler normally only comes on while in traffic or at a stop light.

Put it on the lift and drained the crankcase to see how much oil was in there and got 4oz. I was also getting a little oil spitting out of the breathers so I checked the oil level and it was right where it was after checking it the night before, but I only went 60-miles. I decided to do a leak down test while the motor was hot this time. The rear cylinder held 97lbs., but the front cylinder would only hold 88lbs. It also took a little longer to build pressure. I'm guessing that might be my problem.

Looks like the front cylinder needs new rings unless one of the valves is not seating correctly. Hoping there is no scoring in the cylinder. Would any of this cause the oil pressure to be weak though?
 

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None of the top end issues would affect the oil psi. Did you try shooting oil in the cylinders when doing the compression test??? If you put oil in the cylinders and the compression increases then the rings are bad, if the compression stays the same then you have a valve issue.
I would check the install of everything in the cam chest and you may want to try removing the Axtell bypass valve and just going with the oem setup.
Is there a chance that the oil pump may not have been aligned right or it may of jumped out of alignment.
Just grabbing at straws here but did you swap out the oil sending unit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I did not put oil in the cylinders, but I did hook up the leak down test again after partial dissembling. With the exhaust off and the rockers removed I clearly had air leaking from the exhaust valve. I could hear it and put my hand in the exhaust port and could feel the cold air blowing on my fingers.

I had a hard time rationalizing in my head how this could cause my oil pressure problem. I did install the oil pump per the service manual rotating the engine to center it as I snugged bolts 1 & 2. I did not replace the sending unit but did think about it after I put it back together. I will do that now though.
 
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