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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone,

I'm quite new here and I just got a 2018 Road Glide and im at about 4.2K miles right now. It's the first bike I bought brand new. I had no previous experience with HD's Warranty and I may have voided my Powertrain portion of mine lol. That being said what are some key things I should do besides regular Maintenance to keep my bike running. I am very open to modding it.

I know that M8's have a somewhat big issue with the Oil Pump/Cooler (I believe), Would it be wise to get an aftermarket one to replace it?

I pretty much Daily Drive my bike if I am not transporting alot of stuff or people. Except for days below Freezing or close to it. I don't want to slide off the road.

Thank you!
 

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Hey everyone,

I'm quite new here and I just got a 2018 Road Glide and im at about 4.2K miles right now. It's the first bike I bought brand new. I had no previous experience with HD's Warranty and I may have voided my Powertrain portion of mine lol. That being said what are some key things I should do besides regular Maintenance to keep my bike running. I am very open to modding it.

I know that M8's have a somewhat big issue with the Oil Pump/Cooler (I believe), Would it be wise to get an aftermarket one to replace it?

I pretty much Daily Drive my bike if I am not transporting alot of stuff or people. Except for days below Freezing or close to it. I don't want to slide off the road.

Thank you!
Well keeping fresh fluids in it like you say is probably the single best thing you can do. The big issues that the M8's have shown are sumping and trans fluid migrating to the primary. You are getting enough miles on your bike that I would say it would have shown those issues by now if it was going to do it. There have been a few cases where it has shown up a little later down the road but very few. You mentioned that you may have voided your powertrain warranty, I'm assuming by adding an aftermarket tuner. If so always make sure that you have the best possible tune for your bike and that will greatly help longevity. Be aware that if you are still running CATS in your exhaust system that you will need a tune with a little leaner AFR. If you are running a CAT-less system then you are good to run a richer AFR to help with cooling the engine a bit. I wouldn't worry about performance mods past a good cam until you need to. A good cam, exhaust system, and proper tune can get you many enjoyable out of your scoot. So in short I would say keep fresh fluids, proper tune, and don't abuse the bike too much and you can get a lot of miles out of it.
 

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Well keeping fresh fluids in it like you say is probably the single best thing you can do. The big issues that the M8's have shown are sumping and trans fluid migrating to the primary. You are getting enough miles on your bike that I would say it would have shown those issues by now if it was going to do it. There have been a few cases where it has shown up a little later down the road but very few. You mentioned that you may have voided your powertrain warranty, I'm assuming by adding an aftermarket tuner. If so always make sure that you have the best possible tune for your bike and that will greatly help longevity. Be aware that if you are still running CATS in your exhaust system that you will need a tune with a little leaner AFR. If you are running a CAT-less system then you are good to run a richer AFR to help with cooling the engine a bit. I wouldn't worry about performance mods past a good cam until you need to. A good cam, exhaust system, and proper tune can get you many enjoyable out of your scoot. So in short I would say keep fresh fluids, proper tune, and don't abuse the bike too much and you can get a lot of miles out of it.
At the most I will never go over 5K miles on a single Fluid Change. I mad at myself for adding that tuner but I would have never thought about that until a friend said something after the fact lol. I will most likely put the tuner on Auto Tune and let it sort itself out over a few days. I got the V&H FP3.
I really try and keep the bike under or around 3,000 Rpms. Though its a Motorcycle and I like to flex on the local germans time to time lol.

If I put a new full exhaust on it should I worry about putting a new Air Intake on it or should the Stock one suffice? I bought Samson 36in Cholos Fish Tails.
 

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Talked to a bunch of CVO guys the other day that told me a friend of theirs has had 2 engines replace under warranty due to crankshaft bearings. They said he always lugs his engine; in other words, puts a load on the engine (like climbing a steep hill) under 2,000 rpm. They advised keeping the engine above 2,250 to help with that scenario.

I can't speak to any firsthand knowledge of bearing failures, but I know from previous experience that lugging your engine is prolly the worst thing you can do.

The M8s are short shifters in as much as the torque drops off after 4,000 rpm so there's not much to gain by raising the revs on a stock engine.

I think these v-twins will run 60 mph in 5th gear at 3,000 revs for eternity. Make sure there's heat in the cylinder heads before you take off and you're fine...

And for the record, I enjoy mine very much :smile:
 

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At the most I will never go over 5K miles on a single Fluid Change. I mad at myself for adding that tuner but I would have never thought about that until a friend said something after the fact lol. I will most likely put the tuner on Auto Tune and let it sort itself out over a few days. I got the V&H FP3.
I really try and keep the bike under or around 3,000 Rpms. Though its a Motorcycle and I like to flex on the local germans time to time lol.

If I put a new full exhaust on it should I worry about putting a new Air Intake on it or should the Stock one suffice? I bought Samson 36in Cholos Fish Tails.
I would definitely put a more open A/C on there if you are changing exhaust. You don't need to go a few days on auto-tune. You can just go for about 20-30mins or so and log the data then reflash what it suggest and then do it again if you feel it needs more adjusting. I will admit that I don't know the V&H FP that well so it may be different but that is what I have done with other tuners.

As far as the rpm goes there is no reason to keep it below 3k rpms what so ever. 3k is even a good cruising rpm. Like was stated above you certainly don't want to lug the engine. The lowest I will ever cruise mine is about 2,200rpm and that's even rare. But my cam is the HD Hp cam and it likes a little higher rpm. Even with a stock cam though I wouldn't ride below 2k rpms. If cruising on the interstate I don't even shift to 6th gear until about 70mph. Everyone is different so that number may very but I find that's what works best for me. Waiting to shift at 3500rpms or even 4k rpms is perfectly fine. You just don't want to be bouncing off the rev limiter all the time. >:)
 
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