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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A couple years ago, I purchased a set of Rush True Duals with Big Louie slip-ons - black. It's been 2.5 riding seasons of disappointment since then. The first issue is persistent recurring exhaust leaks; primarily where the header meets the jug at the exhaust port. I've tried SE gaskets, regular gaskets, two sets of SE gaskets, etc... I've tightened per HD spec, front to back, back to front, etc.. I can MAYBE get 1K miles before they leak again. Discussed with the HD techs at my friendly neighborhood dealership, and discovered this is not an isolated occurrence. The tech suspects Rush has/had a design flaw. The second issue is that all this tightening/loosening and heat cycles caused my header studs to become worn. I thought I might replace the studs this winter. Easy job, no? I've done this on many bikes in the past. Ah, not my luck this time. I tried the "two nut" trick, where you crush one nut into another and then back the stud out. The threads were worn enough that they stripped before the stud broke loose. Or so I thought. I went to plan B: the Vice Grip method. I clamped and turned. No joy. Ok, so let's shrink that stud down with a little heat, right? No joy. Penetrating fluid, etc.. After wrestling with it for a day, I snapped the stud in half. Dammit. Grab the Dremmel and cut the stud close to the jug, center punch, and drill the appropriate size hole for an Easy-Out. Carefully turn. Don't break the tool. Snick... Busted the Easy Out inside the hole. I did everything I could to release the Easy Out, but wound up just making a mess of things. New jug on order.
If anyone can learn from my experience, than my humiliation is well worth the price of admission. If your exhaust doesn't leak, count your blessings. If it does, please don't play around too long. Return the exhaust and demand the dealer or manufacturer get it right. Little issues can turn into big problems in a jiffy. Rant over.
 

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Sorry to hear of your troubles Norseman. Once you remove the jug from the bike do you think you will be able to salvage it or is it just as bad on or off the bike? Best of luck.
McLuvin
 

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The easyout can be removed,a lot of machine shops have EDM machines that can burn the stud and easyout out,once the stud is burned out which will cause no damage to the head you can retap the hole.
 

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That sucks Joe, I've been there with broken easyouts. Good luck on the reassembly. I'm getting ready to start my winter mods as well. I stripped out the screws holding in the end caps on my mufflers trying to take them off to send to Jetman for ceramic coating. He was going to do them the same time he did your stuff but I could'nt get them to him in time. Also my HK radio took a crap a few weeks ago. Going aftermarket along with some other upgrades.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry to hear of your troubles Norseman. Once you remove the jug from the bike do you think you will be able to salvage it or is it just as bad on or off the bike? Best of luck.
McLuvin
Thanks, brother. It's off, and it's not salvageable. Took it to a trusted mechanic and he concurred. The threads in the jug were shearing... A helicoil insert was not recommended, although there appeared to be sufficient material for one. I didn't feel like pushing the issue and wind up stranded in the middle of nowhere (my kind of luck), so I'm going for the replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That sucks Joe, I've been there with broken easyouts. Good luck on the reassembly. I'm getting ready to start my winter mods as well. I stripped out the screws holding in the end caps on my mufflers trying to take them off to send to Jetman for ceramic coating. He was going to do them the same time he did your stuff but I could'nt get them to him in time. Also my HK radio took a crap a few weeks ago. Going aftermarket along with some other upgrades.
Oh, my luck rubbed off on you this summer? lol
I can't wait to see the ceramic coating in person. My exhaust should arrive in the next couple days. What winter mods are you doing?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The easyout can be removed,a lot of machine shops have EDM machines that can burn the stud and easyout out,once the stud is burned out which will cause no damage to the head you can retap the hole.
That was the first thought. My friendly HD shop mechanic has a machine shop he uses, and that was our first thought. After smoking it over, the threads were shearing in the jug. Guess I need to ease-up on the weight lifting. lol
 

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After smoking it over, the threads were shearing in the jug. Guess I need to ease-up on the weight lifting. lol
you know, the torque spec for those exhaust nuts is like 120 INCH/LBS.....

i had an exhaust stud snap off in the head and my local indy used a jims tool to drill it out. pretty slick item, the good stud holds it in place and provides a drilling template to drill the other one out. after you drill it, you reach in with a pair of pliers, and just pull the threads out like a spring.....
 

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Thanks for sharing the "Jims exhaust stud" tool!

Your post would make a nice sticky.
 

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Sorry to see you had to go with a new jug......just glad the exhaust parts you sent me arrived back safe & sound............Hope they stop giving you issues................
 

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Oh, my luck rubbed off on you this summer? lol
I can't wait to see the ceramic coating in person. My exhaust should arrive in the next couple days. What winter mods are you doing?
Joe, are you changing exhaust or reinstalling a freshly re-coated one. Tough break on the jug, now that you've got everything apart, are you going to cam it up or go back stock?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
you know, the torque spec for those exhaust nuts is like 120 INCH/LBS.....

i had an exhaust stud snap off in the head and my local indy used a jims tool to drill it out. pretty slick item, the good stud holds it in place and provides a drilling template to drill the other one out. after you drill it, you reach in with a pair of pliers, and just pull the threads out like a spring.....
Dang, that little tool would have saved me a bundle. Thanks for posting - it may save someone else from committing my errors. I'm learning this forum is a wealth of information and support. I should have stopped when the threads stripped as I was trying to back-out the stud, and posted to the forum asking for ideas. Sometimes I'm just a little too bull-headed.
 

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STOP!!!!!
Do not order a new JUG because the exhaust port is in the CYLINDER HEAD not the JUG.
Best and simple fix is to take the head off and go to a auto machine shop and have them extract the broken stud.
If the stud hole in the cylinder head is stripped you can use a Time Sert (don't use a helicoil) to fix the stripped threads or drill and tap the hole and go with the next size up studs, you would need to drill the exhaust flanges to accommodate the bigger studs.
Look into getting new headers once you have the exhaust studs fixed.
 

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STOP!!!!!
Do not order a new JUG because the exhaust port is in the CYLINDER HEAD not the JUG.
Best and simple fix is to take the head off and go to a auto machine shop and have them extract the broken stud.
If the stud hole in the cylinder head is stripped you can use a Time Sert (don't use a helicoil) to fix the stripped threads or drill and tap the hole and go with the next size up studs, you would need to drill the exhaust flanges to accommodate the bigger studs.
Look into getting new headers once you have the exhaust studs fixed.
+1 on what Iron mark said. a quick look at an image of the head will show the exhaust port directly behind the exhaust valve IN THE HEAD, not the cylinder. Some people mistake the head and jug as one component and the ROCKER COVERS as the head. BIG NO NO!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
STOP!!!!!
Do not order a new JUG because the exhaust port is in the CYLINDER HEAD not the JUG.
Best and simple fix is to take the head off and go to a auto machine shop and have them extract the broken stud.
If the stud hole in the cylinder head is stripped you can use a Time Sert (don't use a helicoil) to fix the stripped threads or drill and tap the hole and go with the next size up studs, you would need to drill the exhaust flanges to accommodate the bigger studs.
Look into getting new headers once you have the exhaust studs fixed.
You're right - I should have said head, not jug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Update: A forum sponsor pm'd me and asked if I had given Rush a chance to address the issues. I had not - I only talked to the dealer. He put me in touch with the right folks at Rush. After two years and 30k miles, they stood behind their product. Replaced my exhaust system with new. Class outfit and class forum sponsor.


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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I wondered if you had contacted Rush.....I had an issue with one pipe discoloring and after a year and a half they replaced both of them. They really did way more than I expected.
 
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