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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I was hoping to get some advice...I have been experiencing on my 2010 FLTRX a high idle after engine warm up, i.e. 1800-2000 RPMs at idle with no return to normal idle. The bike has nearly 17K miles.

I have searched what feels like every corner of the internet for a solution. Based upon other solutions I changed the following: engine temp sensor, crank position sensor, both O2 sensors, checked for air cleaner leaks, cleaned my air cleaner, changed my exhaust gaskets, new battery, prayed to Madonna, you get the idea. Oh yeah I added dielectric grease to the plug that everyone says to do...sorry I don't remember if it was the tca plug but I think so. I have done all of this and still I have a high idle after a warmed up engine. I have checked the codes but that doesn't help, I do not get a check engine light nor does my bike go into limp mode. IDK what to do next other than to go to the dealership and experience what I know to be a $1K non-fix (pessimistic for a reason). Any advice is greatly appreciated.
John
 

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There is an idle relearn procedure but you also may want to check for a vacuum leak. If I'm not mistaken there's a lil rubber boot that can fall off and create a vacuum leak. I believe it's on the throttle body
 

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Discussion Starter #5
not the idle relearn, tried it and no love....bike idles fine at startup until fully warm; then the high idle starts.
 

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In most high idle situations you can cycle the ignition on/off 5 times and it will reset the idle to factory specs. A ignition cycle consist of turning the ignition on and waiting until the engine light goes off then turn the ignition off, if the engine light doesn't come on after a few on/off cycles wait until the red key light goes off.
The reason the bike idles high is because the ECM will remember the throttle position when the bike is turned off so basically when the engine is turned off when the idle is high then the idle will remain high until you cycle the ignition 5 times. That is why you need to keep the hands off the throttle and make sure the engine idles down before shutting the bike off.
I alway use the main ignition switch to turn the bike off and I use my right hand to do it. :wink:
 

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In most high idle situations you can cycle the ignition on/off 5 times and it will reset the idle to factory specs. A ignition cycle consist of turning the ignition on and waiting until the engine light goes off then turn the ignition off, if the engine light doesn't come on after a few on/off cycles wait until the red key light goes off.
The reason the bike idles high is because the ECM will remember the throttle position when the bike is turned off so basically when the engine is turned off when the idle is high then the idle will remain high until you cycle the ignition 5 times. That is why you need to keep the hands off the throttle and make sure the engine idles down before shutting the bike off.
I alway use the main ignition switch to turn the bike off and I use my right hand to do it. :wink:
Thanks for posting up this information.
You just taught me something new.
Swomack
 

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My 09 did that, although I think it would idle high on start up also. Cycling the ignition would reset it.
 

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Hi all,

I was hoping to get some advice...I have been experiencing on my 2010 FLTRX a high idle after engine warm up, i.e. 1800-2000 RPMs at idle with no return to normal idle. The bike has nearly 17K miles.

I have searched what feels like every corner of the internet for a solution. Based upon other solutions I changed the following: engine temp sensor, crank position sensor, both O2 sensors, checked for air cleaner leaks, cleaned my air cleaner, changed my exhaust gaskets, new battery, prayed to Madonna, you get the idea. Oh yeah I added dielectric grease to the plug that everyone says to do...sorry I don't remember if it was the tca plug but I think so. I have done all of this and still I have a high idle after a warmed up engine. I have checked the codes but that doesn't help, I do not get a check engine light nor does my bike go into limp mode. IDK what to do next other than to go to the dealership and experience what I know to be a $1K non-fix (pessimistic for a reason). Any advice is greatly appreciated.
John
Does your bike have a Tuner?
 

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Gents,

I've tried the cycle on/off and it doesn't solve my problem but thanks. I have a dyno from a TTS mastertune currently running the bike.
If you had the bike tuned on a dyno and it ran fine then reload your map, see if it changes anything. If it don't change anything then have a look at your map and see what your idle is set at,you have warmup tables and normal running tables.
 

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OK this might not be your issue but it was mine a few years back with the exact same symptom. Take the A/C off and check the throttle flap in the intake and see if the bar that it is bolted to is broken. On mine that throttle bar was broken on both sides of one of the threaded holes and would not allow the flap to return to the idle position. The little allen head screw had fallen out and was just laying in the filter when I took it off. So lucky it didn't get sucked into the motor.
 

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I agree, sounds like one of the sensors or the butterfly is sticking. Quite common for this to happen. Use some brake clean and and spray the end of the sensors in the intake a couple of times and then put a screwdriver to hold the butterfly open so it can evaporate. Also spray around the butterfly shaft to make sure it is not sticking open a little. Then check that it is returning properly. Twist the throttle a couple of times while watching it then physically push on the butterfly and see if it closes more. Then last, like one of the above post, check your download and see if the idle setting has become contaminated and is set wrong. You might also check all the connectors on all the sensors as well to make sure they don't have corrosion. Good luck.
 

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If you had the bike tuned on a dyno and it ran fine then reload your map, see if it changes anything. If it don't change anything then have a look at your map and see what your idle is set at,you have warmup tables and normal running tables.
"The Short Bus" had a similar issue (PC-V / Auto) the fix was to make sure that the "0" % Throttle Position Column had all "0" values, was told that the "10"% TPC should be "0" values also, but "0-ing" out the "0" Column solved for me.

In your original Post, it sounds like you've checked / replaced just about every connection / sensor that would be associated with your issue, in absence of something off the wall like the TB issue RGKen suggested, you might revisit the connections (especially the Temp Sensor). Over the years, I've seen NIB sensors be faulty out of the box, not likely, but I have seen it...
 

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Cycling the ignition on/off only works if there is no mechanical issues. If you cycled the ignition and the bike still idles high then you may have a mechanical issue that needs to be address. Especially if the bike ran fine with the current tune and then this idle problems just came up, if the problem was in the tune the high idle problem should have been there right after the tune was flashed into the ECM the first time.
Check the MAP sensor which is on the top of the TB right behind the air cleaner.
Most of the time a vacuum leak is the mechanical problem that causes high idle conditions, check and make sure the TB bolts are tight to the cylinder heads if these bolts are loose then it could cause the leak, also the intake gaskets can crack and cause a leak the only way to check that is to pull the TB off.
If the throttle plate is sticking you should be able to pull the air cleaner and see the problem and be able to push the throttle plate closed.
Be careful pushing the butterfly open or closed when the bikes ignition is on, you can strip the plastic gears in the TCA which can make the TB useless because the TCA is a non repairable part "THE TCA PLUG MUST BE DISCONNECTED TO PREVENT STRIPPING THE GEARS IN THE TCA IF MOVING THE THROTTLE PLATE BY HAND WITH THE IGNITION ON"
 
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