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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,

I just got some new handlebars and heated grips for my 2018 FLTRX.After watching a few videos and getting some advice here, I am pretty confident that I can put everything on myself. My question is twofold:

1) does anyone know if that model has the accessory cable there already so that the grips can just be plugged in? I’ve heard that the 18 Specials has it already but the CVO’s didn’t.

2) F47 says that you don’t need any cable extensions for this. I’m curious if people’s experience either way.

Thanks!
 

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Cant answer #1, #2, you should need nothing. By Far the easiest bars I have ever installed.
 

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Hey All,

I just got some new handlebars and heated grips for my 2018 FLTRX.After watching a few videos and getting some advice here, I am pretty confident that I can put everything on myself. My question is twofold:

1) does anyone know if that model has the accessory cable there already so that the grips can just be plugged in? I’ve heard that the 18 Specials has it already but the CVO’s didn’t.

2) F47 says that you don’t need any cable extensions for this. I’m curious if people’s experience either way.

Thanks!
The cable extensions are NOT REQUIRED..however... to save the work of removing the plastic keeper under the gauge cluster and removing a few ziptied to free up slack... I used 4" extensions and kept everything under the gauge nice and neat... $35 saves you some time and looks better.

Cant answer your q on the heated grip wiring... I will NEVER install heated grips again.. I did a Brothers bike and was a severe pain in the ass with 1.25" bars...F47s are 1.5 and should be a bit easier. Have a plan though as you need to run an additional wire inside the left side for the left grip... right side should already be there in the TBW HARNESS

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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I have a '15 special I just put those grips on with the F47 Legacy bars. It was very easy to feed the wires, probably a little harder with the signature bars, but can't imagine its that bad. The bike had the plug in the gauge pod for the grips, didn't need the extra harness the dealer wants to sell you. They work great.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have a '15 special I just put those grips on with the F47 Legacy bars. It was very easy to feed the wires, probably a little harder with the signature bars, but can't imagine its that bad. The bike had the plug in the gauge pod for the grips, didn't need the extra harness the dealer wants to sell you. They work great.
That’s what I wanted to hear! Thanks!!
 

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I did 14" f47 signature bars and kahuna grips last winter on my 18 RGS. Grips were plug and play with NO extra wiring kit needed-the parts dept would love to sell it to you but not needed on the special.

On my 17 RGS, I did not use extensions, on my 18 I bought the 12" gorilla wire extensions from f47 website, they are plug and play and make for a much cleaner install. If you remove the mounting panel it just gets messy, learned the 1st time-$30 well spent.

I have used heated gloves for 5 years and they work great, having almost the same convenience at the twist of a knob without the extra wires hanging out of your sleeves is the cat's azz!
I will never have another bike without heated grips.
375AD4B3-65D7-48C6-99BF-A4B6732D019A.png
375AD4B3-65D7-48C6-99BF-A4B6732D019A.png
 

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I did 14F f47 signature bars and kahuna grips last winter on my 18 RGS. Grips were plug and play with NO extra wiring kit needed-the parts dept would love to sell it to you but not needed on the special.

On my 17 RGS, I did not use extensions, on my 18 I bought the 12" gorilla wire extensions from f47 website, they are plug and play and make for a much cleaner install. If you remove the mounting panel it just gets let messy, leaned the 1st time-$30 well spent.

I have used heated gloves for 5 years and they work great, having almost the same convenience at the twist of a knob without the extra wires hanging out of your sleeves is the cat's azz!
I will never have another bike without heated grips. View attachment 410032 View attachment 410032
I'm with Matt on the extensions. Makes for a much cleaner installation. I used the 8" nams extensions. same price but off of Amazon. Just put 14s on my 19 RGS. Cant help with the heated grips question.
 

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I just did this last weekend with 16” bars. I did not need the extensions as they reached just fine after adding the extension to the throttle cable that I needed for that side. If I hadn’t extended that cable, it would have needed it.

Second thing I would say is to just cut off the fuse holder and then pull everyone through the bars and connect that back again. It would have saved me much time versus trying to get that fuse holder through the bars.

Last thing is that I made the installations a little nicer on the left grip by notching the grip where the wire comes out. It seems set up for you to just pinch that wire inside the switchpack cover but I didn’t like that. Quick cut with a dremel, now my wire goes nicely into the switchpack and our to the bars. Oh, the instructions for the grips say to run that wire outside the switchpack, but there is actually a chase through the switchpack for the wire and a place where it exits on the controls side.

They didn’t work at first so I had to track down what was wrong. There was power getting to the left grip but not to the right. Found that my Nams extension wasn’t providing continuity. After taking it out and testing, got the pin pushed in all the way and it then worked, but it wasn’t really needed so I just left it off.

Good luck with your install. I know I’m loving these grips on my new apes!
 

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What everyone else said,but also you should change out your riser bushings at this time.Also make sure you pull the main fuse.Good
Luck
 

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Beware the Kahuna grips. They are fragile on the outside. If you put your hand on the end of the bars as you get on and off they may crack. I got mine replaced at 11 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Beware the Kahuna grips. They are fragile on the outside. If you put your hand on the end of the bars as you get on and off they may crack. I got mine replaced at 11 months.
They do seem a bit long. Thanks for the advice!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any tips for getting the throttle cable through? I put some soapy water and used a pull chain taped to the end, but it doesn’t want to get through the curves very easily
 

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Cant answer your q on the heated grip wiring... I will NEVER install heated grips again.. I did a Brothers bike and was a severe pain in the ass with 1.25" bars...F47s are 1.5 and should be a bit easier. Have a plan though as you need to run an additional wire inside the left side for the left grip... right side should already be there in the TBW HARNESS
never say never. I just installed heated grips on my 2019. it was a piece of cake. all the connectors were there in the gauge pod, and with the reduction of wires in the can-bus and the bigger center hole in the handlebars, it took about 45 minutes to do.

op, I don't know if your 2018 is going to be the same as my 2019 though.
 

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Any tips for getting the throttle cable through? I put some soapy water and used a pull chain taped to the end, but it doesn’t want to get through the curves very easily
Patience and some push/pull coordination. It will go. I removed the plug for the heated grips to have one less lump to pull through.
 

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Any tips for getting the throttle cable through? I put some soapy water and used a pull chain taped to the end, but it doesn’t want to get through the curves very easily
I had a stone cold bitch getting mine through. I couldn't figure out the de pin thing so I ended up clipping mine and soldering them back together. I see a lot of advice against it but it was the only way I could get the job done. 18 months and 20k miles later they seem to be doing ok
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Alright All...probably the last question. I got everything in and hooked up and they look great. Everything works, so that’s a plus too. The last issue that I’m running into is that it seems like because the bars are bigger, it pushes the gauge cluster out just enough to make it impossible to push the ignition down to lock the bike. Anyone else run into this? I found a video online where someone shaved the inside of it so that it would sit better. Just wanted other people’s opinion before I resorted to that.

Thanks everyone for your help through this process! I am by no means mechanically inclined, but I’m glad that I took this on.
 

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The last issue that I’m running into is that it seems like because the bars are bigger, it pushes the gauge cluster out just enough to make it impossible to push the ignition down to lock the bike.
Didn’t run into that. My bars are swaged down at the spot where they run into the nacelle and they don’t push it out.
 
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