Road Glide banner

1 - 20 of 161 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok so I finally took the plunge and tore my bike into a jillion peices and did the handle bar install. I went in blind, with very little research, no instructions, just started taking it down untill I figured it all out. My good camera was MIA during the install but I took pics along the way. There is even good pics of the fairing removal for those of you who are still un easy about that project!

All in all, it was not too nad at all. It went smooth, only advise is take your time, and COVER YOU BIKE!!! Every inch of it! I had mine covered untill the last minute when I was doing final adjustments and dropped a wrench on my tank leaving a very small but noticable scratch down to the metal! UGHHH I was pissed. Ok so here we go with the install.

Here is a pic of every single tool I used to complete this project. Not to much stuff, from left to right: butter knife, adjustable wrench, socket wrench, very small flat head screw driver, T-20,T-25,T-27,T-30 torx head sockets, 13mm or 1/2inch box wrench, needle nose pliers, and somewire cutters. Thats it!


Ok first thing is look on each side of your speedo and tach guages, there are torx head screws on each side (T-20). Take them out and give the guages a good tug and the guages will come off.

Next, pull the guages out and try to make some sense of the wire coming from the back of the guages. This is what you should see.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Next unplug the connectors from the back of the tach and speedo guages. there is one for each guage. You can mark them if you wish but they are not the same plug, or interchangable, so you can not mix them up. I did not get a pic of unplugging the guages, but If you dont know how then stop, load your bike on a trailer, and take it to you nearest stealer, and fork over 9 hours worth of labor to have your bars installed. This project is not for you! LOL... just kidding, you can do it, this is not hard!

Next is the removal of the ignition switch. I think someone posted a great video of how to do this but I will how the pics here. Simply feel under the back side of the switch and fing this little button:

Push that button up towards you, then while holding the button up, push down on the entire switch. Once you push down, you will hear a click, you can now pull up on the switch and it will come out.

Next grab your adjustable wrench and where you just pulled the switch out, there will be a silver bolt on top of the ignition shaft, take that bolt off, then a weird looking washer looking thing under it, and a black washer under that. take all of them off and remember how they came off... or refer to this pic:

Next pull up on the cover plate that has the words Lock, Off, ignition, Acces. it pulls off very easily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Next, look down the side of your upper forks (inside the hole in the fairing between the tank and the back of the inner fairing. You will see two bolts holding the black shroud onto the forks. Remove these 4 bolts (T-30)


Now back up to where your guages used to be.... the two halfs of the guage cover is snapped together, just pull on each side vey gently and they will separate:


It is not completley neede to remove the covers, but it will give you more room to work with. You have to turn the handle bars a little bit but they come out like a puzzle. I removed mine:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Next thing is to remove the switch covers from your handle bars. On the clutch side remove the bolt on top and bottom of the switch housings (T-25)
Top:


Bottom:


Then use a (T-27) and remove the bolts hold the clutch perch:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Lay the clutch on your fairing and let the switches hang for now. Thay wont go anywhere yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Lay a cloth or rag over your throtle side glove box on the fairing, and lay the brake cylinder assembly on it. It stays pretty well, but keep an eye on it. DO not want to shake it around to much. Let the switches hang like the other side. We will get them off in a few.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
While you are on the throtle side, do the easist part of the whole install.... slide the grip off... easy cheezy.



Now go to the clutch side and take off that grip. Grab it really hard with both hands. Twist violently in both directions untill the glue breaks free and the grip slides off. Now look at how red your hands are.... That sucked! Or if you have new grips, grab a razor blade and cut that thing off. Either way you dont need it on the bars anymore. I had to reuse mine to I went with the painful way of taking it off.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Now it is time to remove the outter fairing. There are three bolts (T-25) on each side of the fairing (6 total) Remove them. Here is where they are located:







The bolts are in the exact same place on the other side of the fairing. Sorry no Pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Now go to your front turn signals. Look inside the fairing, and find the two chrome bolts that hold the turn signals on. Remove them ( 13mm open end or box wrench also a 1/2 inch works)



Another pic



Now just pull the turn signal off and let it hang. Do the same for the other turn signal.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
No pic of this step but it is very easy. Straddle you front fender and grab both side of the fairing.... Kinda like you are hugging your fairing.... lift up then the fairing will be free of the hooks: Here is the hooks that hold the fairing on.



ANother angle



Now just reach into the fairing and un plug the head light connectors. Now the fairing is completley separated from the bike. Here is where the fairing rest on the hooks:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Now this is the nightmare you should be looking at.


Look directly under the radio, and see all the wiring nightmare comming through the fairing up to the guage area and under the tank. Remember this area.... Now look at the bottom of the handle bars where they are bolted onto the bike. There should be a few wires coming from inside the handle bars going through the fairing up the area under the radio I told you to rememeber... trace that wire set to this connector:



Unplug this connector (this is the fly by wire or throtle by wire)

Now go to the throtle sside of the handle bars and at the end will be a white gear looking thing. You might have to work the wires from inside the fairing up to the bottom of the handle bars, Mine slipped right through the fairing..... this is what you will find when you pull ove the throtle sleeve.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Now unplug the green and black connector.



Now this is what you will have... set it aside.



Go back to the handle bars and use the needle nose pliers to pull out the black tabs holding the switch wiring in place. Then lay your switches up on the glove boxs.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
588 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Now at this point I decided to not wire my bars internally because I will be adding heated grips soon, so I left the wiring out.

I then pulled the FBW or TBW wire out of the bars and snaked it into my new bars. Very easy, these wires are not big. I plugged them back into the sensor sleeve and put the sensor in the bars. I then installed the new bars, Easy as cake.


...
I did not do any more pics of the reinstall. It is exactly reverse of taking it apart. No big issues at all, and tips or tricks to offer. It is really an easy job.

I will be internally wiring my bars when I get heated grips so I will do another post with pics to show how that is done. It is really not a hard job. Took me 3 hours total.

Now for putting the fairing back on.... my best advise is use the butter knife to release the tabs and take the head lights out. You can see the hooks better when putting it back on. Mine was not that hard to do.

I will post a review with pics of my new bars soon. (Klock Werks Ergo Back Bars) Hope this will help someone.
 
1 - 20 of 161 Posts
Top