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What's the best way to drill fender so paint doesn't chip to install 21" wheel. Little leery about puttin a drill bit to painted areas
 

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I haven't done it in this bike but anytime I've done it in the past I put tape on both sides where I want to drill and drill through the tape from outside to inside.

The tape usually stops the chipping and anything that pushes through is on the inside and you can touch it up and no one will see it.

Also good to center punch so the drill doesn't walk.

Phil
 

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Working for a wheel retailer has taught me many things. We always recommend that you drill or dremel out the rear two mounting holes on the front fender when adding a 21 as we have had some people have issues, others who have not. There has been no rhyme or reason as to why, or what brand of tire or anything. But know that if and when your tire rubs the inside of your fender at highway speeds, it will blister the paint on top of the fender where it has made contact.

I know plenty of people running 21"'s on the front of their baggers who have done nothing to the fender and had no issues as well. If it were broken down into this bike will have an issue with this tire it would be much easier for everyone but there has not been enough of these type of issues to do that.
 

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tcon, how much clearance do you have?

Spending money to repaint my fender wasn't the way I wanted to find out I didn't have enough clearance so I played it safe. I drilled front and rear holes with the next size drill bit AND used a dremel to elongate the rear holes. 1/4 in clearance all the way around is the best I could manage. (tightest spot is around the 8:00 position) Don't think I'd risk anything less.

I used painters masking tape to protect the paint.
 

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I can get my finger between wheel and fender. I have about 20k miles with the 21" upfront with no issues.
The tight spot is around the 8:00 position near the back of the fender. Sticking your fingers in at the front lip won't tell you how much clearance you actually have except at the lip. (unless you have some really long fingers. LOL)

If you care to, next time your bike is on jack or lift, tape a 1/4inch nut onto the center of the tire and roll the tire. If it passes through without hanging up, try a larger size nut. If it doesn't pass through or rubs, you have less than 1/4 inch. That's the only way to know how much clearance you have.

It's great that you're not having issues, I'm just curious about your clearance since you didn't alter the fender mounting.
 

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I've neverhad an issue with getting the parts from DK either, but as others have said I usually call to confirm availability before placing the order. Learned that lesson when I bought my exhaust and waited 2 months to get it.
You sound like customer service, putting ownership on me. If they can post a ticking clock that says order by this time and it will be ahipped
Will do. My bikes will be on jack by Sunday. I will let u know.
 

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$.02 from me for anyone trying a 21" front wheel on you CVO RG... The fenders on the CVOs have a steel bridge on them, no "gap" like the stock RG fenders and this present serious issues when trying to mount any aftermarket lower leg (Hawg Halters in my case) that isn't completely rounded.

HHIs "Bomber" style lowers have a squared edge on the leg that will not fit without rubbing. They have no spacer to address this so I am forced to go with the wrap fender. Was going that route anyway, just wasn't planning on it this soon. Wanted to go w/stock fender and one-sided caliper but this issue with their lower prevents that.

Just an FYI to anyone considering this. The other option would've been to stay with two caliper setup and reuse my existing legs. That wasn't possible after I sold my wheels and rotors and the HD tech broke the bolt off in the bottom of one of the legs!

Good news is: this setup should still look killer when done and the painter has great rep for matching CVO paint. Time will tell...
 
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