Road Glide banner

Did you find researching slip-ons to be exhausting?

  • 1. Insane amount of opinions. This is stupid and I should go to bed.

    Votes: 3 17.6%
  • 2. Who cares how it sounds. What's the performance!?

    Votes: 4 23.5%
  • 3. Who cares how it performs. How does it sound!?

    Votes: 4 23.5%
  • 4. @%$^ Noob playing with the poll feature and a bad pun.

    Votes: 6 35.3%
21 - 36 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
If you ride twisting roads aggressively, I would highly recommend that you look at adding a True Track system to stiffen up the rear end to prevent the 'bagger wobble'. I replaced my swing arm bearings, bushings, and added StaBo bushings, but still had the wobble; whereas the True Track stiffened everything up perfectly.
Thanks again. I have been looking at that indeed. My favourite road is the 99 miles (literally) of twisting highway through Highway 12 in Idaho. Thanks for recommendation. Unfortunately, I have an 8 to 11 hour drive before I hit the first corner whenever I leave home, hence booking it through Montana AFAP!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #23
Thanks again. I have been looking at that indeed. My favourite road is the 99 miles (literally) of twisting highway through Highway 12 in Idaho. Thanks for recommendation. Unfortunately, I have an 8 to 11 hour drive before I hit the first corner whenever I leave home, hence booking it through Montana AFAP!
422264

Looks WAY better in the Summer...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,028 Posts
2) Local dealership engine guy most work the TBA counter for his day job. Harley tappets are crap. They need to hit the trash bin asap. Did I mention that the tappets Harley uses and sells are crap? Past that the tappets are hard steel, the hole they live in are soft aluminum. The holes wear out before the tappet bodies do.

Harley tappets at 1000 mile service:

View attachment 422258
I have 107K on my 2012, but that is not all on the original engine. It's been replaced twice because of failures in the Cam Chest.

First issue was at 59K with a failed Cam Chain tensioner. (Gears are Better)
422266


Second issue was a Lifter at approximately 78K. (Get rid of the HD Lifters)
This lifter had less than 20K on it.
422265



Thankfully, both of these incidents were covered under warranty. However, that meant I was limited in what I could replace at the time, even with additional charges.

I plan to go full gear drive, high volume oil pump, and S&S lifters.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I have 107K on my 2012, but that is not all on the original engine. It's been replaced twice because of failures in the Cam Chest.

First issue was at 59K with a failed Cam Chain tensioner. (Gears are Better)
View attachment 422266

Second issue was a Lifter at approximately 78K. (Get rid of the HD Lifters)
This lifter had less than 20K on it.
View attachment 422265


Thankfully, both of these incidents were covered under warranty. However, that meant I was limited in what I could replace at the time, even with additional charges.

I plan to go full gear drive, high volume oil pump, and S&S lifters.
I have 107K on my 2012, but that is not all on the original engine. It's been replaced twice because of failures in the Cam Chest.

First issue was at 59K with a failed Cam Chain tensioner. (Gears are Better)
View attachment 422266

Second issue was a Lifter at approximately 78K. (Get rid of the HD Lifters)
This lifter had less than 20K on it.
View attachment 422265


Thankfully, both of these incidents were covered under warranty. However, that meant I was limited in what I could replace at the time, even with additional charges.

I plan to go full gear drive, high volume oil pump, and S&S lifters.
Ouch! I looked at the gear drive, high volume oil pump, etc. and decided to pass on this build. Definitely changing out to aftermarket tappets and Cam Chain tensioners. Any thoughts on just replacing the tensioner pads or the whole units?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
For tappets, look at:
V2313SE HyLift Johnson
Product: HyLift Lifter - Johnson HyLift Lifters

The oem tensions will work fine with those cams. If yours are worn out, Drag sells those too.
Would you recommend the tensioner pad only (for 30USD$ a set) or the entire mechanism? Seems to me the spring is inside the tensioner pad so that is all that would need replacing? As you mentioned, Drag sells just the pads. I don't want to cheap out on a small component but wondering why I would change the 'holders' out on the stock cam plate.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,688 Posts
Would you recommend the tensioner pad only (for 30USD$ a set) or the entire mechanism? Seems to me the spring is inside the tensioner pad so that is all that would need replacing? As you mentioned, Drag sells just the pads. I don't want to cheap out on a small component but wondering why I would change the 'holders' out on the stock cam plate.
I would be good with just replacing the shoes asms. So long as the bores in the housings look good. Being able to buy shoes for the new style tensioners is a fairly new thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,524 Posts
Was more of a dig at myself as I know (2) things about Motorcycle Maint......Drop Off & Pick Up

That is an amazing way to do it some times. I have for years at least once a year before a good trip taken the bike in and said find it. That might be something needs fix. In other words look it over see if I am BS myself. It pays to have a trained eye that sees these things everyday look at it once in awhile.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,688 Posts
I have 107K on my 2012, but that is not all on the original engine. It's been replaced twice because of failures in the Cam Chest.

First issue was at 59K with a failed Cam Chain tensioner. (Gears are Better)
View attachment 422266

Second issue was a Lifter at approximately 78K. (Get rid of the HD Lifters)
This lifter had less than 20K on it.
View attachment 422265


Thankfully, both of these incidents were covered under warranty. However, that meant I was limited in what I could replace at the time, even with additional charges.

I plan to go full gear drive, high volume oil pump, and S&S lifters.
Yep, I've seen that a few times. And pulled a few tappets where the sides had split but not broken off yet.

I went with a gear drive on my 110 build. S&S gears, 585 cams, and plate w/pimp, with a 4 degree key from Bob Woods.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
2008 FLTRU 105th Anniversary w/ 110"
Joined
·
1,388 Posts
Yep, I've seen that a few times. And pulled a few tappets where the sides had split but not broken off yet.

I went with a gear drive on my 110 build. S&S gears, 585 cams, and plate w/pimp, with a 4 degree key from Bob Woods.
I have the same cams/gears and was going to also post a pic, but you posted my pic. lol. I went with the EZ start cams and turned off my ACRs as well. The Quickie push rods are worth their money, to say the least.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,688 Posts
I have the same cams/gears and was going to also post a pic, but you posted my pic. lol. I went with the EZ start cams and turned off my ACRs as well. The Quickie push rods are worth their money, to say the least.
Adjustable push rods are a time saver on some engine/chassis combos. But you are better off with non adjustable rods, better yet, tapered non adjustable rods. Stronger, lighter, and you eliminate four points of failure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
Adjustable push rods are a time saver on some engine/chassis combos. But you are better off with non adjustable rods, better yet, tapered non adjustable rods. Stronger, lighter, and you eliminate four points of failure.
That would make sense...but I would have to pull the head off then, correct? I might try that someday... retiring next year....:coffee:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,688 Posts
Mentioned cam advance key by Woods. what about advanced crank gear whether gear ir chain drive

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
What you do with cam timing kind of depends on the what cams you run and what's in the rest of the motor. As well as what you intend to do with the motor.

Advancing the cam trades top end power for low end power because you are closing the intake valve sooner. Retarding the cam makes the motor pull a little longer on the top end, at the cost of some low end torque. I tend to run at speed out on the slab, so I have mine retarded. But straight up would prolly be fine too. If i ever go back in that chest, I'll prolly go back to a 0 key.

Now on chain drives, the same results can be achieved with the offset sprockets. And the oem sprocket is a POS, so you should replace it with a well machined piece from one of the after market suppliers. A lot of oem crank sprockets will move 4 degrees just from the sloppy fit.
 
21 - 36 of 36 Posts
Top