[skratch]

to expound on my answer above, to get to the fork caps, you have to take the instrument nacelle off. that will expose the fork caps. mine were torqued at the factory by the 800lb gorilla so i also had to take my handlebars loose so i could get enough leverage to loosen them. other than that, it isn't bad. you can do it in about an hour if you take your time.

 

[skratch]

I'm on a 2006 and I imagine that the lower Road Glide Customs (and the Street Glides) won't feel as big a benefit because they have less suspension travel to work with in the first place. That extra inch and half of travel is a LOT when you're bottoming it out.

I used H-D Heavy Fork oil and it worked great. You can make your own fork seal driver by taking an appropriate diameter PVC pipe and cutting a + or x from one end into the pipe some distance lengthwise. This way you can bend the ends in to fit inside the walls of the fork tube, and then strike that with a hammer to drive your seals in safely. Beats spending the money for the special tools...

the customs and street glides being lower has not effect on the forks. they are the same. what weight oil you use is really personal preference. i like the se heavy. gives a firm ride without being overly harsh. others prefer a 50/50 mix of the type e and se heavy. still firmer than stock, but not quite as firm as straight se heavy.

as far as actually changing the oil, i don't go through all the hassle of taking the forks off/apart. you can easily do it on the bike. the short version is to take the drain bolt out, about 10.5 oz should come out. take the cap off the top of the fork (its 36 mm), and pour your new oil in. you may have to compress the forks a couple of times to get it past an air pocket, but it really isn't difficult to do.

my suggestion is to go with the se heavy. if you find it too firm, change it out again with the 50/50 mix.....