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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently changed my front tire on my 2011 RGU and ever since then I have to pump my front brake once b4 it works. I checked the fluid level and brake pads and all check out OK. The brakes worked just fine b4 pulling front wheel. I tried to bleed the brakes with a vacuum pump and got about 2 ounces of fluid out. I can't figure out what could have happened to cause this problem unless it has something to do with the ABS brakes.:confused:
 

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Sounds like there's air in the system somewhere. Not having abs myself, some say you can bleed them yourself but I'd say take it to the dealer to have them bleed the brakes properly with the computer
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I thought of that but the brake rotors show the rotation arrow on the right side and in the right direction and the left rotor says L and the rotation in the right direction. Thanks
 

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I never had a problem after removing my front wheel multiple times. You will find on the forum some threads that talk about the dealer having to activate the ABS system in order to remove any residual air in the brake lines and thereby get a nice firm brake lever or pedal. Not sure if there is a process for us DIY's to activate the ABS system.
 

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there is a sensor on the left side of the axel. it goes on in between the leg and the rotor. make sure that it is facing the right direction. there is a small magnetic sensor that rides along the bearing. if that is not correct you will not have abs brakes and your abs light will be on. also that sensor is pretty "mickey mouse" and the sensor itself will move around a small bit in the housing. if its not straight then it wont send the signal to the ecm that it is connected to the bearing.
 

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I had a problem with the same thing on my 06. It was driving me nuts because I never could find any air in the system no matter how much bleeding. All I can say is, when I took the top cap off the master cylinder to double check the fluid level.... It somehow miraculously worked properly after that. Why???? Who the hell knows, but give that a try, whaddya got to lose? I hope this helps.
 

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Just a thought. I've always have bled brakes with the cap to the brake reservoir OFF, and have never experienced any problems with the brakes after bleeding and replacing the reservoir cap.

+1 on the sensor being on backwards. I would check that.

Good luck!:D
 

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I also (of course) had the cap off during the bleeding procedure. The problem of having to pump 1 time before proper lever function occurs AFTER everything has been completed and buttoned up. It was not an ABS problem since I don't have that on this bike. It was, as the OP said, just a matter of having to pump 1 time before proper operation. After all was done, just removing and replacing the cap worked for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks everybody for the suggestions still have to pump 1 time to get front brakes to work. If the wheel was on backwards I would think the ABS light would be on all the time. Andy
 

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Thanks everybody for the suggestions still have to pump 1 time to get front brakes to work. If the wheel was on backwards I would think the ABS light would be on all the time. Andy
What did you do to try to remedy the problem? Did you have the dealer bleed the brakes?
 

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Check to see if your rotor is warped. I've run into this, when the tire was put on, was the rotor used to hold the wheel ? The brake had to be pumped once to push the pistons against the brake pads. The warped rotor pushed the pistons back into the caliper everytime it was released causing this concern.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have not taken the bike to the dealer yet that will be the last resort as I don't trust the dealers quality control. I will check the rotors that is a good suggestion although when changing the tir to my knowledge I didn't put any pressure on the rotors but that doesn't mean I didn't and warped rotors sounds more likely than air in the system. thanks for the suggestions. Andy
 
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