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Discussion Starter #1
I want to powder coat all my chrome and the front forks. Has anyone taken the front forks off of a 15 RGS yet? I did the same on my 02 Electra Glide Standard but not real sure on this one. Guess I need to get a Service Manual. Thanks for the help.
 

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I want to powder coat all my chrome and the front forks. Has anyone taken the front forks off of a 15 RGS yet? I did the same on my 02 Electra Glide Standard but not real sure on this one. Guess I need to get a Service Manual. Thanks for the help.
It will be the same once you remove a few of the plastic pieces around the speedo.

Definitely, get a manual for the tightening process.
 

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I just did mine. It's pretty simple really. I just bought the sockets from snap on. I strongly suggest using an impact wrench. My suggestion for driving the new seals is to put the new seal in place and then slide the old seal over it upside down. Use a piece of 2" PVC pipe as a driver, you'll get a pretty even impact spread on the seal. I also used the screaming eagle heavy fork oil to stiffen up the front a bit.

I am considering loaning out the sockets because they are not cheap. The bottom 12 mm socket needs to be a certain length too so make sure you get the proper socket. PM me if I can help at all.
 

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Thanks for the help.. I believe I have all the tools. How much of the fairing has to come apart for access? I guess I will get started on this once it starts getting cold again. If that happens. Almost 80* today.
 

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Only the instrument nacelle and the upper plastic fork cover that's just below it need to be removed. You don't have to touch the fairing. Once you remove the the calipers, fender, and wheel you just loosen the 6 pinch bolts in the triple trees. Be sure and hold on to the fork when you loosen the last pinch bolt because the fork will just fall right out. Pretty easy job and you shouldn't have any issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Only the instrument nacelle and the upper plastic fork cover that's just below it need to be removed. You don't have to touch the fairing. Once you remove the the calipers, fender, and wheel you just loosen the 6 pinch bolts in the triple trees. Be sure and hold on to the fork when you loosen the last pinch bolt because the fork will just fall right out. Pretty easy job and you shouldn't have any issues.
Thats what I needed to know. Thanks for the info. Now I just need some bad weather so I can go to work. 79* today and the riding is too good to break it down. Thanks again.
 

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I just did mine. It's pretty simple really. I just bought the sockets from snap on. I strongly suggest using an impact wrench. My suggestion for driving the new seals is to put the new seal in place and then slide the old seal over it upside down. Use a piece of 2" PVC pipe as a driver, you'll get a pretty even impact spread on the seal. I also used the screaming eagle heavy fork oil to stiffen up the front a bit.

I am considering loaning out the sockets because they are not cheap. The bottom 12 mm socket needs to be a certain length too so make sure you get the proper socket. PM me if I can help at all.
I got taught a new lesson on this just last week. My mechanic friend, Buie, has an extra washer that goes below the rubber fork seal. You put the rubber seal on and then slide this washer on over it. Be sure and put some oil on the rubber seal and then you can drive as much as you want and not mess up the seal. I've done these forever and never had known about this. He gave me a washer for my tool box for the next time.
 

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Only the instrument nacelle and the upper plastic fork cover that's just below it need to be removed. You don't have to touch the fairing. Once you remove the the calipers, fender, and wheel you just loosen the 6 pinch bolts in the triple trees. Be sure and hold on to the fork when you loosen the last pinch bolt because the fork will just fall right out. Pretty easy job and you shouldn't have any issues.
One thing I do just before loosening the pinch bolts is take my long socket wrench with the 12mm allen socket on it, put it in the allen head screw in the bottom of the fork and take a hammer and give the socket wrench a sharp blow and it will break the screw loose really easy. Sometimes you might have to rap it twice. Then just tighten it slightly to keep oil from dripping out. Then after you have loosened the top allen bolt in the top of the forks, loosen the pinch bolts. Also, another member on here had a great idea. Before you loosen the top allen head bolt in the top of the forks, loosen the pinch bolts and drop it down about half way between the upper and lower tree. Now you can get a long socket down thru the upper tree and loosen the bolt with out the bars being in the way. Hope this helps.
 

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Because I'm a cheap bastard, I found a cheap Chinese cold chisel at the hardware store, that happened to have a 3/4" hex shank. You can verify the fitment, by placing it in a 3/4" socket at the same hardware store. I cut about 2" off that, to use with a 3/4" socket. And the cold chisel's only about 6" long now instead of 8. That was around $7.00, and the appropriate square-drive hex socket was closer to $25.00. Cutting a 3/4" cold chisel with a hacksaw isn't an option. Fortunately, I've got access to a monster bandsaw at work, that cut thru it in about 4 minutes. Then I cut another chisel down that was in my toolbox for the 12mm drive. It was faster than a second run to the hardware store. And cheaper.

I just swapped to chrome sliders last weekend, and it would've been a cakewalk if I had the right tools BEFORE I started. A trip to the hardware store, the Harley shop (for seal kit and fluids), and the "project" only took about 3 hours.
 

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12mm allen head for the damper rod bolts. The fork caps are now a 3/4" allen. Yes I said 3/4". That's a big allen head!
OMJESUS those 3/4” cap bolts, I had to take a break and both my hands are bruised now from trying to remove them! Starting to think the factory cross threaded them!!!
 
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