[cookie114]

I'm getting ready to swap out the stock forks for some blacked out forks and curious what all needs to be purchased to complete the swap ie... seals/fluid. And should I go with oem or is there better aftermarket options?

 

[Big_gary]

I'm getting ready to swap out the stock forks for some blacked out forks and curious what all needs to be purchased to complete the swap ie... seals/fluid. And should I go with oem or is there better aftermarket options?

Stay oem and you'll need a seal kit, bottom bolt & copper crush washer and fluid. YouTube on how to make a seal installer tool from PVC pipe.

 

[sj01fltri]

A word to the wise on Blacked out oem lowers the factory will powder coat over all rough castings,my buddy bought a set for his 16 glide and they looked terrible so he returned then and removed his lowers and gave them to me and i spent about 6 hrs working all the casting marks out then had a local powder coater do them in gloss black they came out like glass.

 

[BH#103]

When you go to do the swap, check out the James Gasket fork kits for Harleys. It's a complete kit minus the oil for reassembling forks. When I did the forks on my '12, all the parts in the kit with part #'s were the same #'s as the OEM parts I removed. Just my opinion if you are looking for a 1 and done kit.

 

[cookie114]

Appreciate the help fellas.

 

[Smarty]

If you are going to do the lowers, go ahead and buy the Progressive monotube shocks and replace the stock suspension. You won't be sorry. Easy and worth the money.

 

[FastHarley]

buy the manual

Not to be telling you what has been said so many times, manual is your friend. It will save you time and trouble. Here is a diagram to help you. I have videos and diagrams on my site + DIY help. It would help if you indicated what exact bike you have also as no one but God & yourself could know otherwise. I will guess.

 

[cookie114]

Not to be telling you what has been said so many times, manual is your friend. It will save you time and trouble. Here is a diagram to help you. I have videos and diagrams on my site + DIY help. It would help if you indicated what exact bike you have also as no one but God & yourself could know otherwise. I will guess.

I know it sounds as if I'm doing it myself but actually I'm not. Got a guy going to do it but I'm just getting everything together so it's ready to do. And yes it would be easier to call him and ask what I need but asking on here gives me something to occupy my Sunday time.... ??

 

[hifiho]

Easy swap. I did mine last night. Took about 3 hours, including removing the bars and plastics, and a run to the HD shop for seal kit and oil. Make sure you've got a 3/4" hex (allen) drive (for the fork cap) and a long 12mm for the plug/bolt at the base of the forks.

 

[cookie114]

Easy swap. I did mine last night. Took about 3 hours, including removing the bars and plastics, and a run to the HD shop for seal kit and oil. Make sure you've got a 3/4" hex (allen) drive (for the fork cap) and a long 12mm for the plug/bolt at the base of

do you remember about what the cost for the seal kit and fluid was?

 

[hifiho]

do you remember about what the cost for the seal kit and fluid was?

I don't have the receipt handy. They didn't have the "kit" in stock, so I had to buy the seals separately. 2 wipers, 2 seals, and 3 sixteen oz. jugs of the heavy fluid was around $55 at the dealership. Had I thought ahead, I would have ordered the parts online, and used Shock Therapy from Amzoil. Could have probably shaved $20 off the cost.

I think the fork rebuild is recommended around 40 or 50k miles. And I didn't think I needed to replace the (bronze?) bushings. So the kit would have left me with spare parts.

I was able to fab my own seal driver from seamless 2" schedule 40 pipe, and tapered the outside of the end to minimal wall thickness. It was only about 3" long, and heavy enough to just "slide hammer" the seal into place. I also covered the tubes with masking tape, to make sure I didn't scratch the surface of the tube. I've read that you can use PVC pipe to do the same. That would guarantee you don't scratch the tubes. And- of course- you can buy the Genuine HD tool. I have no idea what that costs.

 

[cookie114]

Sounds good! Thanks

 

[FastHarley]

The real deal

I don't have the receipt handy. They didn't have the "kit" in stock, so I had to buy the seals separately. 2 wipers, 2 seals, and 3 sixteen oz. jugs of the heavy fluid was around $55 at the dealership. Had I thought ahead, I would have ordered the parts online, and used Shock Therapy from Amzoil. Could have probably shaved $20 off the cost.

I think the fork rebuild is recommended around 40 or 50k miles. And I didn't think I needed to replace the (bronze?) bushings. So the kit would have left me with spare parts.

I was able to fab my own seal driver from seamless 2" schedule 40 pipe, and tapered the outside of the end to minimal wall thickness. It was only about 3" long, and heavy enough to just "slide hammer" the seal into place. I also covered the tubes with masking tape, to make sure I didn't scratch the surface of the tube. I've read that you can use PVC pipe to do the same. That would guarantee you don't scratch the tubes. And- of course- you can buy the Genuine HD tool. I have no idea what that costs.

I rebuild many forks and I actually know what I am doing as well as know what the parts are used for and how they are suppose to work. My purpose is to give our members some insight on what they should be looking at, how to inspect the forks for wear, and understand what wears. If anyone wishes to not listen than immediately skip my post as I do not sell these parts and I need to get to work. I am hoping I am not wasting my time.

In less than or at 10K miles your FLT fork oil is filthy, contains contaminants, & is black from being heated up. I would never use any HD oil but that is just me observation, there is a difference in fork oil. If you dump your fork oil into a cup in less than 10K using HD oil, this is what you will see. No trick photography here. This bike only had 6K miles on it and belonged to member AdrainVail @ HDF.

And leaves settled debris (dirt, metal deposits, Et. al.) that looks like this

In about a week or two the suspended debris in the dumped oil settles and there is a good coating in the bottom of the cup. I swab out the inside of the fork tubes and you will find this:

I outline how to clean your forks in a two part video hosted on my site. Amy is not a paid actor and actually knows what she is doing and does her own work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=GjSI_VPmFl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09Pyh4mqUYU&feature=player_embedded

The slider and guide bushings are just carriers so a coating can be applied such as Teflon so the fork tube can either slide through the bushing (top/guide) and the slide bushing slides inside of the fork slider that is captivated onto the fork tube.

These are not brass or steel bushings but carriers. Next, inspect your fork tubes while you have them apart. Hard Chrome can not buff to get shinny. If you see shinny, chrome like spots, congratulations, you just saved $3.50, $4.50, and the cost of your oil by not cleaning your forks at 10K miles. Yes, 10K not 50K miles on a FLT. If your fork tubes have long scratches in the hard chrome, you are well on your way of wearing out your fork tubes. I hear all of the time that 10K is way too much maintenance and money to do. Of course your only option is to now purchase new fork tubes and all of the wear parts.

When you have all of that suspended debris floating around it is like suspended abrasive power thus wearing out your parts and once the Teflon coating is worn off your forks start slowing down and do not operate as intended thus your ride suffers in both ride quality and performance.

Amy volunteered her time to make that video over several days & I am passing along information that I know is true a I do this stuff every day (most days anyhow). You can do what you like as it is your bike, however, this information, you can take to the bank.

 

[hifiho]

Wow! I apologize for my incomplete, and obviously- amateur advice regarding simple fork slider replacement. I wasn't offering instructions. Just a few tips on what to expect.

I DON'T know what I'm doing, although I've done it several times in the past (not daily; so I'm no expert). I guess I've just been lucky that I haven't damaged the forks or forced any leaks. In fact- I've even repaired more than a couple of leaky forks in my day, without repercussion. As I suggested, and it appears that the experts agree- I'd rather have used another brand of oil (I choose Amzoil or Royal Purple when I have the option). So I guess I got that right.

Fortunately, I was only at 5k miles, and my wear surfaces looked nothing like the photos. In fact, everything looked brand new, with the exception of the fluid, which did have plenty of discoloration and cloudiness. I chose to replace the seals out of habit. Cleaning the sliders and tubes I assumed, would be a no-brainer. But then again- I was only offering a couple of tips, not thorough instructions to R&R the forks.

 

[cookie114]

Wow! I apologize for my incomplete, and obviously- amateur advice regarding simple fork slider replacement. I wasn't offering instructions. Just a few tips on what to expect.

I DON'T know what I'm doing, although I've done it several times in the past (not daily; so I'm no expert). I guess I've just been lucky that I haven't damaged the forks or forced any leaks. In fact- I've even repaired more than a couple of leaky forks in my day, without repercussion. As I suggested, and it appears that the experts agree- I'd rather have used another brand of oil (I choose Amzoil or Royal Purple when I have the option). So I guess I got that right.

Fortunately, I was only at 5k miles, and my wear surfaces looked nothing like the photos. In fact, everything looked brand new, with the exception of the fluid, which did have plenty of discoloration and cloudiness. I chose to replace the seals out of habit. Cleaning the sliders and tubes I assumed, would be a no-brainer. But then again- I was only offering a couple of tips, not thorough instructions to R&R the forks.

Agreed.. ??