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Not sure if this is the right forum, but it IS a DIY deal- at least in my case.

Anybody paint their garage floors with that battleship gray paint, the kind with the flecks that you spread onto it while it's wet? Any particular brands that are better than others? Is it durable enough to last 10 or more years? And lastly, about how much does the paint cost to do a 2 car garage?

Any insight appreciated.
 

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No experience myself but the consensus over at the Garage Journal forum seems that any kind of paint won't hold up in the long run. Among other issues, heat from tires is especially hard on the paint. A company called RaceDeck makes tiles that are kick ass and easy to install, but pricey. http://www.RaceDeck.com/

The guys at Garage Journal are as passionate about their garages as we are about our bikes ... tons of info. Here's the flooring section.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
 

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No experience myself but the consensus over at the Garage Journal forum seems that any kind of paint won't hold up in the long run. Among other issues, heat from tires is especially hard on the paint. A company called RaceDeck makes tiles that are kick ass and easy to install, but pricey. http://www.RaceDeck.com/

The guys at Garage Journal are as passionate about their garages as we are about our bikes ... tons of info. Here's the flooring section.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=20
You are the man!! Thanks for that info as its been something ive been looking for! I just bought a garage (it came with a house for mrs_garvin90) so im itching to make it look professional.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Oil Stains, isopropyl alcohol, wet, scrub, repeat. Air dry for a couple of days, repeat process again.

For good adhesion to concrete, acid etch the surface. For best adhesion sandblast the surface to a 80-100 grit feel finish or ,0015 or 002 of an inch profile

Use a good quality two part epoxy, for a non slip, broadcast in clean white sand, very lightly, backroll the epoxy after the sand.

Depending on your floor size, if you need more than one kit (most of the time you do) "box" both the A and B parts separately before mixing them. This will keep an even color throughout the job. Boxing is simply mixing both kits of the A side together to get an even coloring and mixing both kits of the B side together.

Most of the time the pigment will be in the A side but sometimes it is in the B side. I have seen A side materials have different color variations even with the same batch numbers from the plant where they were produced.

Hot tire pickup is the hardest on floor coatings, in summer hot tires parked on the coating will "soften" or liquify the coating causing it to adhere to the patch of the tire in contact with the floor, cheap porch and floor paints with no surface prep are the most susceptable to this type of damage.

Proper surface preparation is 95% of your job. Do that right and you will have a floor coating that will last for years.
 

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Oil Stains, isopropyl alcohol, wet, scrub, repeat. Air dry for a couple of days, repeat process again.

For good adhesion to concrete, acid etch the surface. For best adhesion sandblast the surface to a 80-100 grit feel finish or ,0015 or 002 of an inch profile

Use a good quality two part epoxy, for a non slip, broadcast in clean white sand, very lightly, backroll the epoxy after the sand.

Depending on your floor size, if you need more than one kit (most of the time you do) "box" both the A and B parts separately before mixing them. This will keep an even color throughout the job. Boxing is simply mixing both kits of the A side together to get an even coloring and mixing both kits of the B side together.

Most of the time the pigment will be in the A side but sometimes it is in the B side. I have seen A side materials have different color variations even with the same batch numbers from the plant where they were produced.

Hot tire pickup is the hardest on floor coatings, in summer hot tires parked on the coating will "soften" or liquify the coating causing it to adhere to the patch of the tire in contact with the floor, cheap porch and floor paints with no surface prep are the most susceptable to this type of damage.

Proper surface preparation is 95% of your job. Do that right and you will have a floor coating that will last for years.
I am doing mine in the spring have had several customers do their own and no problems some are 5 yrs old .Sherman willams I am going to use Bare and I think harley orange
 

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I am thinking something different for my garage this summer. I am looking into simulated wood porcelain tiles. Just have to find them with a high enough PEI rating. I have been in the auto industry for years and have seen how well tiles that are laid properly and designed for this application hold up. Only downside is they are slippery when wet. I think that this would be an awesome look with a rustic type garage
 

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I used Rustoleum epoxy kit for my garage and I bought it at Home Depot. They make a 1 car garage kit and a 2 car garage kit. Took me 2 days to do it and I did it back in 2004. I would probably do it again.
 

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After alot of jack stands and car jacks I must say it has held up pretty good. I feel the only drawback is the flake (which is optional) when I would drop a small part it would take me a little longer to find. Also all depending on the shape and condition of your slab (which mine had a crack in it) I would have gone with a more multi step method like u-coat it which fills in your cracks, works on pre painted surfaces, thicker coat on the floor, very glossy glass like pro finish, and has more colors available. The rustoleum is good don't get me wrong but it is also alot cheaper than u-coat it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Good info ans timely, too. Ill be doing this in the next 3 weeks or so. I went to Home Depot and they're pushing Bear products. Their 2 phase system is what im leaning towards. I don't remember seeing U Coat...
 

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Rhinohd is absolutely correct about the prep work with the acid and a good hard brush and letting the floor dry. The u-coat it stuff is in the internet and also if you. Watch the powerblock show on cable. Its a great system which like I said before depending on the condition of your concrete slab. I think it is better than the home depot stuff but you get what you pay for. Look it up on you tube and you'll see what I'm speaking of.
 

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I did my 2.5 stall garage floor with the RUSTOLIUM GARAGE floor epoxy paint {flakes included} and it came out great! I also went over it with the CLEAR rustolium coating and added the sand that came with it for texture{Highly recommend the sand}. It does tend to lift in area's of the tires at times and I did do all the "Prep Work" before hand because I believe in doing things right the first time. I keep a small jar of the paint near by with clear nail polish to cover, when ever I have to repair a small spot. I would deffinately not try using a car jack on this stuff though. Do all that stuff in the driveway. If I had to do it all over again....I would prob. just seal the floor with a clear high gloss sealer. Just my thoughts. Good luck in what ever you do.....
 

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I haven't had a problem in the areas as to where the jack stands and other heavy equipment have been I think the spots where I have now found a couple of chips I'm assuming was maybe a missed spot during prep.
 
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