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My mechanic tells me that in order to install Gear Drive cams I need to tear down my bottom end and install timkin bearings on crank. Everything on here that I have read about gear drives says nothing about the crank bearings. Is he being ANAL? Do I need a new mechanic? His opinion is Gear drive is Race only stuff.
Personally I thought if the crank run out was within spec gear drive was an improvement on accurate valve timing. Error proofing/ bullet proofing!!!
I am doing a 95" bore job with head porting and mild cam and required tune on a 2005 Road Glide. Any input?
Thanks for your help
 

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Timkin bearings aren't needed if the run out is ok.
 

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A Timken bearing set is not going to stop the crank from sissoring, if in fact it would.
As long as you have .003" or so, T.I.R. on the pinion shaft, you should be fine.
If he's worried about your crank sissoring, they why not pin and weld??
And btw, if boring to 95", again, why not bore to 98"?:)
Scott
 

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The reason for gear drive cams was to eliminate the manual cam chain tensioner which needs adjustment as the shoe wears down, the shoe also wears out in 20,000 to 30,000 miles and if the shoe falls apart particles will go into the engine oil and cause problems.
Since HD came out with the hydraulic cam chain adjusters there is no need to adjust the cam chain tensioner and the shoes last longer.
Upgrading to the new cam plate is a better option because you also get the high volume oil pump which will give the engine better lubrication. The cost between gears and the cam plate upgrade should be around the same.
 

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The S&S Crank (.0005 installed / Timken) in the 117 was a likely candidate for Gear Drives.

When I asked several Builders on both sides of The Mississippi their thoughts on Gear Drives in a "Sport Touring" Motor, all said basically the same thing; "If you have any kind of a failure with Gear Drives, it is more likely to be catastrophic (than with Chain Drives)"

There is a much bigger Cam Selection with Chain Drives.

Added expense with GDs

You're building a 95" street motor, the performance gains with GDs will be negligible.

It sounds like your Mechanic is trying to steer you away from GDs and I agree with him.

I agree with Mark & Scott , update with the Harley Pump/Plate Kit and go 98".
 

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The reason for gear drive cams was to eliminate the manual cam chain tensioner which needs adjustment as the shoe wears down, the shoe also wears out in 20,000 to 30,000 miles and if the shoe falls apart particles will go into the engine oil and cause problems.
Since HD came out with the hydraulic cam chain adjusters there is no need to adjust the cam chain tensioner and the shoes last longer.
Upgrading to the new cam plate is a better option because you also get the high volume oil pump which will give the engine better lubrication. The cost between gears and the cam plate upgrade should be around the same.
+1 Also if the crank sisor with gear driven cams will most likely make a nice mess to the engine case.
 

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The reason for gear drive cams was to eliminate the manual cam chain tensioner which needs adjustment as the shoe wears down, the shoe also wears out in 20,000 to 30,000 miles and if the shoe falls apart particles will go into the engine oil and cause problems.
Since HD came out with the hydraulic cam chain adjusters there is no need to adjust the cam chain tensioner and the shoes last longer.
Upgrading to the new cam plate is a better option because you also get the high volume oil pump which will give the engine better lubrication. The cost between gears and the cam plate upgrade should be around the same.
how do you "adjust" the tensioners when the shoe wears??
 
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