Road Glide banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I am thining on changing the fluid in the forks. Just looking it seems that the handlebars and gauge cluster have to come off. That right? Could anybody point me at a vid on how to do it? Found a good one on youtube but it was for a Streetglide which is a completely different animal in this regard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,456 Posts
Don't have a vid- but the bars do not have to come off. You do need to remove the speedo nacel. I find it easier to just remove the nacel all the way rather than just loosen - but as long as you can get to the fork caps your good.
You do need to remove the switch but that's not a big deal......
Of course- you'll need to remove the Fender- Calipers & Wheel
Loosen the caps then loosen the pinch bolts off the bottom tree plate. Once they are loose- remove the fork cap & slide down & out. Don't turn sideways or upside down or the fluid will spill everywhere. Re-install the fork caps while your handeling the fork legs... Once you change your oil, re-install in reverse order..... forks in- caps & pinch bolts tightened- nacel put back together- wheel calipers & fender back on.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
304 Posts
Its kind of a frustrating job to get to them, i actually have been wanting to raise my bike back to stock ride height but dont feel like dealing with taking that apart.

Meanwhile I am taking my transmission out and my primary is all apart. I'd rather do that than deal with the forks again.

I know people say it all the time, but go buy the manual for the bike. It is very easy to follow and worth its weight in gold.

Even the simplest tasks are in there and it makes sure you dont forget anything. Or do one of those, oh crap, i put that on before this and now i have to take something else off to accsess it....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,272 Posts
You dont have to take the bars off. I changed my forks a few weeks ago, no need.

You do need a long wrench for the cap nut.

Basically you have to loosen or tighten slowly by putting the wrench on and turning the bars in the appropriate direction, take the wrench off, move the bars back, put the wrench on, move the bars, etc etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
692 Posts
You can un bolt the handlebars and lay them on the gas tank. No need to take em completely off. It's only 4 bolts and makes things easier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,588 Posts
You can un bolt the handlebars and lay them on the gas tank. No need to take em completely off. It's only 4 bolts and makes things easier.
No need to take the handlebars off at all.
But since you have the front end apart doing the forks it would be a good time to adjust the steering head bearings. JMO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
296 Posts
I just changed my fork oil last night and did it without the hassle of removing the tire, fender and forks. Just put bars on the tank, move nacelle out of the way and loosen fork cap bolt and drain plug. Much easier that way imo..

Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
+1 to RoadGlide69. Just make sure you let them fully drain (have dinner and linger) and refill VERY slowly. I refill mine in 3 stages to minimize the "burping".

tj
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I thought you had to pump the fork leg up and down to get the damper tube completely drained out. Is that not the case.....instead you just let it drain for a while?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
Sorry to take so long getting back but just got home from SW IV. Yes, I just let it drain. Although I've never done it, you can drain each leg into a measuring cup to verify the drained quantity. The repair manual calls for 10.7 oz for a 2013. I think they are all the same but check to be sure.

tj
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top