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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,
How are you,

Happy New Year to everybody 2019!
Well, I finally did it!
I bought my whole audio upgrade in pieces and here it is:

DSR1 Rockford Fosgate signal processor
(2) - 6.5' inch Fairing HERTZ Mille 165.3 speakers
1 Diamond Audio Micro4v2 600 watt amp
American Hardbag wiring kit:

Quantity:* * Item:
1* * * * * * * * *DSR1 fuse connection (use between DSR1 battery connection and DSR1)
1* * * * * * * * *2015+ Biketronics road glide amp mount
1* * * * * * * * *RCA EFX coaxial 1 ft connectors (male)
1* * * * * * * * *8 AWG Main harness POWER KIT for motorcycle amp connect with remote turn on and fuse
(ST-AK8) by Metra.*

1* * * * * * * * *Plug n' Play Speaker Connectors for Front Speaker Pods
1* * * * * * * * *14' and Up Harley Front Speaker inputs for RCA Kit
1* * * * * * * * *Rear Lid Speaker Inputs with quick disconnects
1* * * * * * * * *Split Backbone harness*


I'm going to attempt to do this install by myself
Any and as much help and support I can get from you guys would be AWESOME!!!
Wish me Luck

(I'm not going to have to flash it because I got the DSR1 processor which will hopefully take care of the whole flattening of the EQ curve signal).

Thanks
​​​​​​​John S

:surprise::surprise::surprise::surprise::surprise:
* * * * * * * *
 

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Well, you certainly went all in.......................

It looks like your parts list was well researched and considered, so I'm assuming the physical installation of the gear isn't going to present much of a challenge to you. I'd guess your biggest challenge is going to be getting it tuned properly with the DSR.

Good luck.
 

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I read good things about the DSR1. Here is a link on the subject, they have a file setup just to flatten out the HD EQ curve. Some good reading as well. Unfortunately I cannot post links as I don't have enough posts. So you will need to type the link in by hand.

The reply doesn't like the www so you can search below.

americanhardbag.com/pages/dsr1-files



JK
 

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John, it sounds like you're all ready for your audio update.
If you have any further questions or run into any trouble don't hesitate to ask for help.
You can PM me anytime also and I'll do whatever I can to assist you.
Best of Luck Bro!
Mike U.
 

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Mount the 4V2 on top of the headlight.

Use the amp mount for the DSR1 under the radio.

Remove the speaker pods to remove stock speakers and install hertz = zero chance of scratching your fairing as opposed to trying to put them in while on the bike. While you have them off, split the pods and silicone them. Do not silicone the drain hole. Let the silicone cure before installing speakers.

Don’t forget the splitter to use for remote power on signal for amp.

Did you get the BT spacer ring for the speakers? I believe the magnets will hit the pods without them, but not 100% positive.

Whatever size/type of inline fuse you have for the amp buy at least one extra and keep it in your tool kit. The internal fuse on the amp is 50W, I went with 60 for a little headroom.


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I've been following these audio threads for quite a while.

That's the first I've heard of splitting the pods and silicone them. Can you educate us other folks as to why and how?

Thanks

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I've been following these audio threads for quite a while.

That's the first I've heard of splitting the pods and silicone them. Can you educate us other folks as to why and how?

Thanks

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk


The how is easy. After removing the pods from bike there’s 5 or 6 screws that hold the pod halves together. Remove them and it’s a tongue and groove like setup. Run a continuous bead of silicone in the groove and put them back together. Leave the drain hole open just in case any water gets in there it has a way out. I don’t really think water would get in the pods but left mine open as most others seem to.

There’s 2 schools of thought on the why. Some guys say it helps tighten up the sound a bit, especially on budget speakers that are known to be bright such as the kappas. Others reported a “huffing” or vibrating sound and felt it was from speakers pushing enough air that it was “leaking” through the pod halves. Silicone cures this. I think that would’ve been very difficult to hear at any significant speed or volume, but I wasn’t going to be the one to do the install and find out the hard way and have to redo it all again.

I used it on both my bikes. It may or may not help the sound but it certainly doesn’t hurt anything to add it.

There are examples on the other forum of the byproducts of silicone curing having ill effects on cheap speakers. I’ve got no personal knowledge of it but let mine sit overnight before installing speakers because I wasn’t about to risk tearing up high end hertz. I’ve done installs for buddies that didn’t want to wait and slapped it all back together right away with no ill effects.


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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks Mike,
I appreciate that brother.
There are a couple of wiring pieces I don't understand the purpose of and where they go to do what they are suppose to do,
I was kind of hoping I could post them on here so I can get some feedback from the guys on here so I can find out what specific piece goes where and what it does, if I get stuck during my install, you know.
That would def be helpful.

But thanks so much Mike
I totally appreciate it!
John S
 
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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So, I want to add a quick side note here, because I'm still in my audio lab trying to figure out this whole concoction (did I spell that right,lol)???

....but I was looking at The American Harbag website yesterday and something struck a chord with me.....So eventually, down the line (cause as you guys can see, I'm still in the beginner (amateur) phase trying to build this whole thing up to get to the next level.

I noticed that for the newer Road Glides or I should say 2015+ that Americanhardbag.com sell the DSR-1 with the option of buying a front signal harness AND a rear signal harness. So then right below it also stated that unless you own a ULTRA RG, then you would not need that specific type harness they sell for that particular model, BUT that the 'ULTRA' specific design harness is made for those version bikes.

But, what got me a bit confused was when, it stated that on the standard type version Road Glide models, the rear signal harness if you were to install the DSR-1 would only be used if you were to install speakers on the lids. So, I decided that down the road that I would, so I bought the rear signal harness and I will install the entire wiring kit from scratch as if I was going to install a set of lids with a horn, and of course the front fairing.

I figured that all my grunt work would be complete now , since it is winter and I'm not riding, not at least till April or May and work on this. But, if you guys happen to have the DSR-1, and are deciding to eventually add-on or mod it in the future, you WILL need the rear harness signal for the DSR1 and you will NOT need to flash it, because your processor would need some real fine tuning.

I mean,look it, at this point, if you can do the entire wiring kit on your own, how hard could it get trying to find someone to fine tune and adjust the DSR-1 on your sled.

Also, I'm assuming that with the rear harness, the audio fader function for the rear speakers will be present, or something to that effect, (but again I'm not sure of the exact wording he stated, cause I'm recalling this all from memory as I'm sitting here typing away).

On another note, AmericanHardbag has a HERTZ 'HYBRID' HH25(horn) speaker combo that they sell for about $800 with a built in capacitor so if you were to do an install on your own and you set it up the way I'm hoping to, with the rear ready to go, then all you would need would be the 'HYBRID' combo and installation would be a breeze, just a plug n' play.

Also, buying a set of OEM or aftermarket Hogtunes saddlebag lid covers (in vivid black, cause thats the color of my bike) with a pre-cut 6 x 9 cutout of the lid and transferral of all your old bag hardware latches and, tethers,etc... to the new lid.

Does that make sense?
Thanks guys!
Ill keep you posted.
See you soon!!...
Take care!

John S
 

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The how is easy. After removing the pods from bike there’s 5 or 6 screws that hold the pod halves together. Remove them and it’s a tongue and groove like setup. Run a continuous bead of silicone in the groove and put them back together. Leave the drain hole open just in case any water gets in there it has a way out. I don’t really think water would get in the pods but left mine open as most others seem to.

There’s 2 schools of thought on the why. Some guys say it helps tighten up the sound a bit, especially on budget speakers that are known to be bright such as the kappas. Others reported a “huffing” or vibrating sound and felt it was from speakers pushing enough air that it was “leaking” through the pod halves. Silicone cures this. I think that would’ve been very difficult to hear at any significant speed or volume, but I wasn’t going to be the one to do the install and find out the hard way and have to redo it all again.

I used it on both my bikes. It may or may not help the sound but it certainly doesn’t hurt anything to add it.

There are examples on the other forum of the byproducts of silicone curing having ill effects on cheap speakers. I’ve got no personal knowledge of it but let mine sit overnight before installing speakers because I wasn’t about to risk tearing up high end hertz. I’ve done installs for buddies that didn’t want to wait and slapped it all back together right away with no ill effects.


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Thanks.
 

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Lucky - you talked about the rear harness from American hardbag. I’m not familiar with the DSR1 at all so just guessing here. If the rear harness is what gets the signal from the radio the to DSR1 than you will likely need the ultra flash as it activates the rear inputs on a non-ultra bike (in addition to flattening the signal. Call American hardbag or RF to find out for sure.

IF you need the biketronics adapters the only place to get them is biketronics. There are other versions but lower quality IMO. Call them and tell them what speakers you have and they will know for sure. Sucks to get everything tore apart and then sit and wait for something else to come in.

General note: use the quote button so we know what you’re replying too or who you’re asking.


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