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Was looking at Harley web site and found a front fork cartridge kit. (Item 45500106). Wondering if anyone had tried this and if so how it worked.
Are these made by Progressive for Harley? If not what is difference between the two?
I tried forum search and came up with no listings.
Thanks for any info.
 

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I would stick with the Progressive Monotubes. From the pictures they do not look like the monotubes.:D
 

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'Have the Harley Premium stuff front & rear on the '09SERG, (about 15K on the suspension so far) to me, Much Better Ride Quality than the MonoTube bikes I have ridden!
Nowhere near as bouncy as the MTs, just smooth and supple, effortlessly hold a line either on the High Speed Western Sweepers or the tight twisties, no bad habits, very well mannered all the way around... 'Ride great solo / 2-up / loaded.

'Don't think the HD stuff is made by PS, as they are two different designs, the HD uses fork oil for the damping, the PS are sealed units. The MTs sometimes sack out around 50k, and PS will warranty the MTs but not the labor... At 50k it is recommended to change the fork oil on the HD.

I would have considered the Ohlins if the forks were available when I was ready to upgrade, but I'm not even thinking about switching from the HD.

Whatever you decide, Remember that to get the most out of any motorcycle suspension, the front & rear have to play well together.
 

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"Premimum" HD Cartridges

'Have the Harley Premium stuff front & rear on the '09SERG, (about 15K on the suspension so far) to me, Much Better Ride Quality than the MonoTube bikes I have ridden!
Nowhere near as bouncy as the MTs, just smooth and supple, effortlessly hold a line either on the High Speed Western Sweepers or the tight twisties, no bad habits, very well mannered all the way around... 'Ride great solo / 2-up / loaded.

'Don't think the HD stuff is made by PS, as they are two different designs, the HD uses fork oil for the damping, the PS are sealed units. The MTs sometimes sack out around 50k, and PS will warranty the MTs but not the labor... At 50k it is recommended to change the fork oil on the HD.

I would have considered the Ohlins if the forks were available when I was ready to upgrade, but I'm not even thinking about switching from the HD.

Whatever you decide, Remember that to get the most out of any motorcycle suspension, the front & rear have to play well together.
I do suspension for a living and I rebuild many Harley forks. At 10K miles your bushings have the Teflon coating worn off of them. The oil is filthy with both contaminants & worn metal from your springs rubbing up and down on the ID of the fork tubes. Metal and organic matter in oil causes wear. The rake of the forks on a FLT causes the bushings to wear only on the top of bottom (guide) bushing and the bottom of the (slide) bushing. Once your bushings are wearing on the metal carrier your fork tube hard chroming will be worn through to the steel fork tube. Hard Chrome never gets shinny no matter who polishes/buffs it. That is the shinny steel fork tube under the protective hard chrome. To purchase/free a set of 20mm so called "Premium" cartridges please visit your long time INDY and ask him if he has a pair of 2002~2005 fairing 46209-02 damper with accompanying & necessary parts that was removed from the left side when the owners converted back to the damper style forks. You must remove the check valve from the bottom of your fork tube as per my fork rebuild video on my site.
This is what is inside of them
I do not sell anything contained in this post, just giving you factual advice on what I learned by observation and doing.
 

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SUBSCRIBED! What is the solution?

Fast Harley, Thanks for the info!

What front kit do you suggest for our FLTRU's ? :confused:

WHat shock's play well with that fork kit? :confused:

I have a 2013 and am seriously considering the MT's OR the Harley units Ohlins is just out of my price range until the bike is paid off or I sell one of my kids LOL
 

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C'mon Howard, don't be shy- give everyone the details on your Ohlins front end kit.

I was going to inquire with you myself, as I'm a bit confused from talk on the other forums- you mentioned you prefer your fork kit in the larger 2014 (49mm?) tubes, but I gather you do sell them, and they work well for the regular sized tubes?

I'm looking to get a set from you for my 2009 SERG, and ditch my Ricors....figure the Ohlins in front will get along great with my Ohlins 3-3's in the back, plus Tim (tj316) raves about them, but he ended up going with the larger tubes/trees as you are aware.

So which kit do I need for my 2009 SERG?
 

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I do suspension for a living and I rebuild many Harley forks. At 10K miles your bushings have the Teflon coating worn off of them. The oil is filthy with both contaminants & worn metal from your springs rubbing up and down on the ID of the fork tubes. Metal and organic matter in oil causes wear. The rake of the forks on a FLT causes the bushings to wear only on the top of bottom (guide) bushing and the bottom of the (slide) bushing. Once your bushings are wearing on the metal carrier your fork tube hard chroming will be worn through to the steel fork tube. Hard Chrome never gets shinny no matter who polishes/buffs it. That is the shinny steel fork tube under the protective hard chrome. To purchase/free a set of 20mm so called "Premium" cartridges please visit your long time INDY and ask him if he has a pair of 2002~2005 fairing 46209-02 damper with accompanying & necessary parts that was removed from the left side when the owners converted back to the damper style forks. You must remove the check valve from the bottom of your fork tube as per my fork rebuild video on my site.
This is what is inside of them
I do not sell anything contained in this post, just giving you factual advice on what I learned by observation and doing.
Hey Fast Harley - sent you a PM - did you ever get it?
 

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PM

Hey Fast Harley - sent you a PM - did you ever get it?
I do not see anything even when I am looking hard for it. Maybe the reason is I guess I do not know where to look? Maybe I can get some idea from a member who knows this stuff. My time is very limited on coming to chat sites as I am working all hours, and all days. No time even to ride or clean my bike for the last 6 months or more. I do read my e-Mail or take calls. I am not a sponsor here so I do not wish to take business from those who are sponsors. If anyone wishes technical questions answered, best use the aforementioned methods of communication.

FYI, I purchased several Ohlins 101 cartridges and one of my own just for testing. Your cartridges do come apart and can be re-valved. You can change the spring pre-load by lengthening (increasing) or cutting (decreasing) the spring pre-load tube. Presently, I have only 3 dyno sheets for the 3 setting banks to change the valving on the 101's. I will be testing different combos once I get my new Roehrig Engineering shock dyno. I like forks but can do shocks. This is a very helpful tool to know what a person is doing in developing additional/new suspension solutions.

 

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Ok cool, I will just post here.

I have the Ohlin's font suspension on my 2012 Road Glide. I installed them myself precisely as the direction indicate and called Ohlin's US on one part that had me a bit confused, which they easily cleared up.

Anyway what I have notice is that my ride seems to feel like I have to high of a tire pressure. They are properly filled and is a result of the new suspension. I have about 400 miles on them thus far. Do you think they will break in and smooth out some or is there something I can do.
 

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Adjustments

I have not ridden the Ohlins FKC 101 cartridges yet. I have done several different installations on my own forks dry. I have never experienced cartridges needing to be "Broken In" like shock absorbers. Your cartridges are very adjustable but you need to think on how to do it. Yes, tj316's forks are much better and easier to adjust. Both applications have compression on one side and rebound on the other side. You do not adjust by putting "Heavier" weight fork oil in the fork.

Here are some different ways to do the job.

By adding or subtracting fork oil to the fork changes the Air Spring. Look at the changes by adding just 10mm of fork oil decreasing the space between the fork oil and fork cap (Air Spring).



Than by changing the shims you can change the characteristics of the forks. These are shims that are a form of a hydraulic spring.



As you know one side is compression only and the other side is rebound. By changing the shim packs to three (3) different values you change the compression on the stroke like such:



And rebound:

 

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Can you go into more details on the oil level graph. Thy diagram is a bit hard to read the values, but it's easy to see that by adding more oil you stiffen the the ride and it appears to be more towards the later have of the stroke. Which leads me to believe I may need shimming and not so much a more or less oil. As my characteristic would likely be at the top end.... Ao if going over small bumps defects in the road surface, it feels like the tires are over inflated. Sorry for the annology, I am not a suspension man.
 

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FastHarley I like your methodology and it's refreshing to see someone actually sharing the information you are presenting here thank you. I am currently looking for further improvements to my front end, I tried the Progressive route and the only thing that I can say is they are coming out soon. Those considering the Mono Tubes I would strongly suggest forgoing that thought, yes there better than stock and prevent brake dive but there under dampened and over sprung. I have heard that the Screaming Eagle units are much better but I can not personally attest to that... If you plan on keeping your bike any amount of time the money spent on the front end is something you will never regret.
 
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