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Just installed the Hayden M6 along with new SE compensator yesterday, couldnt be happier with the M6 tensioner. Went for a ride after install,primary is very quiet and smooth the "clunk" into first is gone and shifting is much smoother. Highly recomend.
 

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It's almost like a new bike until the SE compensator starts to fail again
We talked about your BDL compensator at SW IV. Funny thing is, after beating my new '14 Compensator to death over 36xx miles, it is now quieter. My BDL was waiting for me when I got home, but I think I'll wait a bit on that. I am tired of ripping into my primary right now! :(

Oh, and you are right, the Hayden M6 is awesome. Should be put on every bike. Mine got significantly quieter after I installed it.
 

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You are r laf the compensators are junk,before i replaced mine it always took at least 2 tries to get my bike to start,hopefully when this one fails darkhorse will finally have a compensator on the market
 

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We talked about your BDL compensator at SW IV. Funny thing is, after beating my new '14 Compensator to death over 36xx miles, it is now quieter. My BDL was waiting for me when I got home, but I think I'll wait a bit on that. I am tired of ripping into my primary right now! :(

Oh, and you are right, the Hayden M6 is awesome. Should be put on every bike. Mine got significantly quieter after I installed it.
Read the last few posts on my BDL thread. I'm not 100% satisfied with BDL either. I emailed BDL a few days ago with my concerns and they have yet to reply. When I was asking them questions about it they replied quickly but now with concerns they haven't responded yet http://www.roadglide.org/showthread.php?t=162241
 

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You are r laf the compensators are junk,before i replaced mine it always took at least 2 tries to get my bike to start,hopefully when this one fails darkhorse will finally have a compensator on the market
DarkHorse looks like they have a good design but unfortunately they've postponed the release because they weren't or aren't satisfied with their progress. I researched their version but it seems they've been working on it since about 2010ish so who knows when they will release it
 

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I will be installing the Hayden M-6 that I won at SWIV! :D along with the Vulcan Works solid sprocket that I ordered when I got home from SWIV. Just waiting for a rainy day.
 

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The hayden tensioner makes a big difference by itself. It's just a matter of finding the best designed compensator that works the best
 

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The hayden tensioner makes a big difference by itself. It's just a matter of finding the best designed compensator that works the best
I agree! You tried the BDL and aren't 100% happy with it so I went with the other option. We will have to compare notes later. I hope BDL gets back to you soon.
 

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M6 tensioner

I was not as pleased as you guys with the M6 tensioner shifting was quieter but the whine did not go away and it did not seem to agree with my cam
When I would start the bike cold there was a slapping in the primary that would not go away until warm. I installed a SE compensator at the same time.
After 10,000 miles I pulled the M6 and the extra sounds went away.

Hayden M6 - 07 and up, is sitting complete in the original box waiting for a new home. probably would want a new shoe
$60.00shipped
 

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I was not as pleased as you guys with the M6 tensioner shifting was quieter but the whine did not go away and it did not seem to agree with my cam
When I would start the bike cold there was a slapping in the primary that would go away until.. warm. I installed a SE compensator at the same time.
Pulled the M6 and the extra sounds went away.

Hayden M6 - 07 and up, is sitting complete in the original box waiting for a new home. probably would want a new shoe
$60.00shipped
Mine took over a thousand miles to quite down.
 

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I will be installing the Hayden M-6 that I won at SWIV! :D along with the Vulcan Works solid sprocket that I ordered when I got home from SWIV. Just waiting for a rainy day.
If you are currently running the SE Compensator you will need spacers between the Vulcanworks Sprocket and stator rotor. Keep that in mind before pulling it apart.

I found out the hard way. I went to install mine before SWIV, and couldn't find washers big enough locally. Had to put it back together with the noisy ass Compensator for the trip.
 

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Is this the supplied spacer? There was no install instructions in the box just figured it would be straight forward when I pulled the cover. Guess I will give them a call prior to install to be safe. I'm still on the stock comp. Thanks Hullhorr
 

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Is this the supplied spacer? There was no install instructions in the box just figured it would be straight forward when I pulled the cover. Guess I will give them a call prior to install to be safe. I'm still on the stock comp. Thanks Hullhorr
No, I believe that goes between the bolt and the sprocket. You will need washers that fit over the crankshaft to pad the sprocket out. I believe the inside Diameter of the washer is 1-3/8".

I called Vulkanworks and it took a few days before I got someone on the phone and he was very little help. He mentioned something about a 3/16" thick nut to pad it out. I bought 1/16" thick washers and will use 3 or more depending on how many get it aligned properly with the clutch basket.

I am going to hopefully install mine this weekend. I'll take picks and start a new thread with the install.
 

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No, I believe that goes between the bolt and the sprocket. You will need washers that fit over the crankshaft to pad the sprocket out. I believe the inside Diameter of the washer is 1-3/8".

I called Vulkanworks and it took a few days before I got someone on the phone and he was very little help. He mentioned something about a 3/16" thick nut to pad it out. I bought 1/16" thick washers and will use 3 or more depending on how many get it aligned properly with the clutch basket.

I am going to hopefully install mine this weekend. I'll take picks and start a new thread with the install.
You would think if spacers are needed for the install they would be supplied?? Maybe because I don't have a SE comp I wont need them?? I will try calling them tomorrow for answers! But will get some washers to have on hand incase.
 

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You would think if spacers are needed for the install they would be supplied?? Maybe because I don't have a SE comp I wont need them?? I will try calling them tomorrow for answers! But will get some washers to have on hand incase.
Regardless of which compensator you have and what spacers are supplied make sure and double make sure the chain is aligned properly. The BDL did come with washer/spacers because it can be used with different stator rotors.
 

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I will be installing the Hayden M-6 that I won at SWIV! :D along with the Vulcan Works solid sprocket that I ordered when I got home from SWIV. Just waiting for a rainy day.
I am a fan of the M6 and the Solid Sprocket. I am using both. I did buy an extra shoe that I carry. I have a knack of breaking things and managed to snap the first one in half. I have not broke a second shoe. Remember you are on the crank. Preload in fun mode and no more lugging. S&S recommends 2700+ on all vtwins, I've gotten accustomed to the roar at 3k or so.
 

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You would think if spacers are needed for the install they would be supplied?? Maybe because I don't have a SE comp I wont need them?? I will try calling them tomorrow for answers! But will get some washers to have on hand incase.
I agree, the sprocket should come with spacers. You probably do have the SE Compensator. I believe it became the standard on either 2010 or 2011 bikes. My original stator rotor would likely not have needed the spacers.
 

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You would think if spacers are needed for the install they would be supplied?? Maybe because I don't have a SE comp I wont need them?? I will try calling them tomorrow for answers! But will get some washers to have on hand incase.
No, you need spacers. The Harley Compensators come with springs, not spacers, that you do not need, nor want.

As said above, it is CRITICAL that you get the sprockets aligned perfectly. If the Crank sprocket is not aligned with the clutch basket, you will tear the primary to bits (aka Grenade the Primary). Use a GOOD straight edge (a metal Level should work) along the chain once you have it installed to check it. Check from the back of the clutch basket to the front of the crank sprocket, both top and bottom (if possible). There should be NO gaps whatsoever.
 

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I'd be leery of running a straight sprocket even with a welded crank. I've heard of the SE cranks having the splines ripped right off the output shaft.
 
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