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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As we all know the 2007 and later 96", 103" & 110" engine is a VERY HOT running engine and the heat coming off the engine and exhaust pipes is a very common complaint.
These high engine temps at operation can be mostly attributed to the closed loop operating mode of the EFI system. The HD closed loop operating mode relies on narrow band O2 sensors to keep the AFR at 14.7:1 at idle, under normal riding circumstances and while cruising.
The HD engine EFI acts different when the engine gets hotter than normal when idling for long periods of time, during slow riding conditions or when the ambient temps get around 80 degrees and above. When the ECM senses hot cylinder head temperatures the ECM goes into overheat/high temp mode which is commonly referred to as "Parade Mode". Knowing that this overheat mode exsist and recognizing what happens as the engine gets hotter may help you understand the bike a little bit more.

During engine warm up the engine runs OPEN LOOP mode at 12.0:1 AFR. No matter what this is the AFR at starting.

After the ECM determines that the engine is warmed up , it goes into CLOSED
LOOP mode and and leans out the AFR to 14.7:1 and the engine will idle at 1050rpm.

In OVERHEAT mode (parade mode) the RPM's drop to 950 and the ECM goes into OPEN LOOP which will richen the AFR to 12:1 in a attempt to cool the engine. As soon as the engine hits 1200 RPM's the ECM goes back into CLOSED LOOP mode at 14.7:1 AFR. The minimum amount of throttle or blipping the throttle will lean out the engine as long as the ECM is in "Overheat Mode".

If the bike tries to accelerate, the engine will stumble and the continued lean AFR condition can increase engine temp.

A OEM engine will go into OVERHEAT MODE in about 10 minutes when idling when the ambient temps is about 80 degrees. Exhaust pipe temps 6" to 12" from the cylinder heads will get to around 700 to 750 degrees with the heat shields hitting temps up around 200 degrees in the same area.

The best thing to do for a OVERHEATING engine is "DO NOT GIVE THE ENGINE ANY THROTTLE" unless you are ready to move. You can recognize a OVERHEATING engine when the idle speed drops from 1050 to 950 RPMs. If this happens, let the engine IDLE until you are ready to move.
 

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As we all know the 2007 and later 96", 103" & 110" engine is a VERY HOT running engine and the heat coming off the engine and exhaust pipes is a very common complaint.
These high engine temps at operation can be mostly attributed to the closed loop operating mode of the EFI system. The HD closed loop operating mode relies on narrow band O2 sensors to keep the AFR at 14.7:1 at idle, under normal riding circumstances and while cruising.
The HD engine EFI acts different when the engine gets hotter than normal when idling for long periods of time, during slow riding conditions or when the ambient temps get around 80 degrees and above. When the ECM senses hot cylinder head temperatures the ECM goes into overheat/high temp mode which is commonly referred to as "Parade Mode". Knowing that this overheat mode exsist and recognizing what happens as the engine gets hotter may help you understand the bike a little bit more.

During engine warm up the engine runs OPEN LOOP mode at 12.0:1 AFR. No matter what this is the AFR at starting.

After the ECM determines that the engine is warmed up , it goes into CLOSED
LOOP mode and and leans out the AFR to 14.7:1 and the engine will idle at 1050rpm.

In OVERHEAT mode (parade mode) the RPM's drop to 950 and the ECM goes into OPEN LOOP which will richen the AFR to 12:1 in a attempt to cool the engine. As soon as the engine hits 1200 RPM's the ECM goes back into CLOSED LOOP mode at 14.7:1 AFR. The minimum amount of throttle or blipping the throttle will lean out the engine as long as the ECM is in "Overheat Mode".

If the bike tries to accelerate, the engine will stumble and the continued lean AFR condition can increase engine temp.

A OEM engine will go into OVERHEAT MODE in about 10 minutes when idling when the ambient temps is about 80 degrees. Exhaust pipe temps 6" to 12" from the cylinder heads will get to around 700 to 750 degrees with the heat shields hitting temps up around 200 degrees in the same area.

The best thing to do for a OVERHEATING engine is "DO NOT GIVE THE ENGINE ANY THROTTLE" unless you are ready to move. You can recognize a OVERHEATING engine when the idle speed drops from 1050 to 950 RPMs. If this happens, let the engine IDLE until you are ready to move.
Great Post Sir! I have an 07. . . . .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good info, Mark. Is this the case even if the Parade Mode option is switched off?

I know the EFI and the EITMS are linked together on the touring models so I would assume that this would be a condition that exsits only when the parade mode is turn on. On the 2007 touring models the rider could not turn off the parade mode unless they took the bike to the dealer and had the dealer enable/disable the parade mode.
 

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Is that what your turning on and off when you roll throttle forward, opposite of giving it gas, and you see the cruise light turn green or red? Or is that something different? I have a 2010 fltrx


2010 fltrx, stage 1 air cleaner, 14" monkey bars, badlander seat, 10" freedom shield, v&h fuel pak, v&h throttle pak, rush true duals
 

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Is that what your turning on and off when you roll throttle forward, opposite of giving it gas, and you see the cruise light turn green or red? Or is that something different? I have a 2010 fltrx


2010 fltrx, stage 1 air cleaner, 14" monkey bars, badlander seat, 10" freedom shield, v&h fuel pak, v&h throttle pak, rush true duals
Yes, green light indicates the system is on . (Waiting to go into parade mode.)
 

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Having problems after the engine gets hot, when coming to a light and sitting there waiting the engine will slow and stall. Will not start unless you turn the ignition off for approx two or three minutes. Still slow to start though. If you let the engine cool for an hour will start right away at first crank. Any thoughts?
 

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Having problems after the engine gets hot, when coming to a light and sitting there waiting the engine will slow and stall. Will not start unless you turn the ignition off for approx two or three minutes. Still slow to start though. If you let the engine cool for an hour will start right away at first crank. Any thoughts?
Similar problem with my 2012 Ultra but I don't have to wait that long AND it doesn't always do it. I'm getting a P0118 code occasionally. Powervision with EITMS turned off so it shouldn't be doing anything weird.

I also started getting a U1016 and U1040 codes occasionally. Under extended warranty, dealer supposedly tested the ET sensor and it was fine so they replaced the ECM. No help.

If anyone has any bright ideas, I'd appreciate it. Also knowing whether these codes are related. Thanks in advance.
 

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I just purchased my 2013 rg. And it runs around 110 degrees when it is hot. What s too hot? Today I rode it to work temps were lower than I had seen, but it was a lot cooler day, and I got the CEL warning about 45 mins into my commute. Checked codes and found two. Po 444. And po 577. Not sure if they are related to the hot running? The cruise seemed to still work and the motor seemed to be running fine. I just cleared the codes and will see if either code returns on the trip home. I have no info on the fuel servo, how it works, etc. Anyone want to enlighten me?
 

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Idles rough when hot

I have a 2010 rg no problems in cool weather or until it gets hot.In hot weather with the parade mode on or off it idles about 900 rpm.It never stalls but shakes all over will smooth out when you give it fuel.Have tried different throttle body still the same.Any thoughts.
 

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The two are different
The parade mode that shuts down rear cly can be turn off or on by ride post 2007. 2007 dealer had to do it.
The reduced idle that adds a bit of fuel is not turned off or on .
Most don't se it because they can not resist burping the throttle at a stop , that causes it to never kick in.
 

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That's the great thing about tuning with a direct link or like product on a dyno. We tuned my bike where in open loop it runs a little richer to make it run cooler and then at cruising throttle position between 2600 and 3100 we set the closed loop at at a leaner rate for fuel mileage. When you grab a hand full of throttle, it goes back into open loop and adds fuel set whee we want it for the crisp sound and power that we all normally only see on cold start up.
 

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I just purchased my 2013 rg. And it runs around 110 degrees when it is hot. What s too hot? Today I rode it to work temps were lower than I had seen, but it was a lot cooler day, and I got the CEL warning about 45 mins into my commute. Checked codes and found two. Po 444. And po 577. Not sure if they are related to the hot running? The cruise seemed to still work and the motor seemed to be running fine. I just cleared the codes and will see if either code returns on the trip home. I have no info on the fuel servo, how it works, etc. Anyone want to enlighten me?

110°? You HAVE to be talking Celsius!


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 

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Running crappy intermitedly

Well I have had my bike for 3.5 years and just recently I have developed a problem with my engine just cutting out like it is running out of gas... Whether I am rolling on the throttle in 6th gear doing 75 or 80mph or just coming to a light it just starts falling on its face... I have to give it gas to keep it running. Its like it is not getting enough fuel... Whats frustrating is it will go away and runn fine for a while before doing it again. Any Ideas what may be going on? I am wondering if I may be loosing and injector? I also have not had the Check engine light come on and it has not thrown any codes...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well I have had my bike for 3.5 years and just recently I have developed a problem with my engine just cutting out like it is running out of gas... Whether I am rolling on the throttle in 6th gear doing 75 or 80mph or just coming to a light it just starts falling on its face... I have to give it gas to keep it running. Its like it is not getting enough fuel... Whats frustrating is it will go away and runn fine for a while before doing it again. Any Ideas what may be going on? I am wondering if I may be loosing and injector? I also have not had the Check engine light come on and it has not thrown any codes...
When was the last time the fuel filter changed??
 
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