[dblkick]

Hey All;
I know there's been discussion about the heat being thrown out by the pipes ('10 RGC) Anyone come up with something "cool"? My leg is feeling like one of those big Turkey drumsticks ya see at the fairs!... Has anyone actually taken the stock pipes apart to see whats inside them? I've heard of collectors/cats but has anyone actually poked & prodded to see what & why?


thx..........D

 

[CHAINSAW]

There has been a few posts spread across different forums. Someone on here posted pics, and yes the cat is very VERY restrictive... you will know why it runs so hot when you see the pics. I've read that just by adding aftermarket head pipes and a tuner, you can get the temp down a lot. I myself haven't done so yet, but will in a few months. When its 103 out, everything is hot,.. even the bug guts on your face

 

[G.I.Mike]

Hotternhell

My 09 runs real hot too! I put a 2-1 Thunderheader on and it helped a little, but not like I had hoped...

A friend of mine put that black heat wrap on his pipes (stainless V&H Competition 2-1) and swears the heat wrap works. I am unsure if I will go this route as it is kinda ugly - but in a cool 'old school kinda way. I am going to wait and see how my ceramic coating holds up over time, and if it starts to look crappy I will try the wrap out.

Anyone else know anything better??

 

[CHAINSAW]

I can tell you from wrapping pipes,.. exhaust wrap works!!!!
The last chopper I built I didn't think about where my feet were when I built the pipes. You know it,.. my leg would rub against the pipes. I wrapped them, and could lay my leg with denim jeans on the wrapped pipe, and it wasn't that hot.
I had every intention of wrapping the headpipes on my RGC,.. but after getting the headpipe off and checking it out didn't. The way the mount is and where the O2 sensors are, it would look really funky right there and may not cover the entire way. I may try wrapping a set, then adding the heat shields as well but never tried that before.

 

[dblkick]

I've thought of wrapping the pipes.... I'm kinda interested in seeing the pipes autopsy... I'm sick like that! give me more understanding as to why I'd like to build Frankenstein...

 

[joke]

Chain, that wouldn't be a bad idea - wrapping the pipes with the heat shields over the wrap. But where does the heat go then? Would it then make the muffler hotter?

 

[CHAINSAW]

Chain, that wouldn't be a bad idea - wrapping the pipes with the heat shields over the wrap. But where does the heat go then? Would it then make the muffler hotter?

I'm not sure,.. the sets I have wrapped and been around didn't have any mufflers. Thats a good question though. Common sense says yes, the heat would travel out but Im not sure. The wrap really dissapates the heat,.. hmm damn good question.

 

[joke]

FYI - Heat and use of Heat Tape

Here's a reply on the heat/tape issue from a guy on the HDF -

"I have been working through this for the past 2 mos. I started with the oil cooler, extended floor boards, got rid of the cat, switched to synthetic. Yesterday I went to an auto parts store and bought exhaust tape. I wrapped the rear header and re-installed the heat shields. I have a solid 24 degree cooler running engine now. I rode yesterday in 90 degree heat and had these readings on three separate trials: 234, 235, 245. The heat tape eliminated a lot of the heat on the calf--no heat on passenger, no red-hot saddlebag rail, barely detectable heat on the rider. In other words, I have to look real hard to find the heat source, coming off the rear head. The tape works. No AFR change--completely stock. The tape cost me $30".

 

[Too Short]

I just did the 1000 mile check up on my '10 RGC. Ran 60 weight Amsoil in the motor. What a huge difference in temperature. No heat on the right leg where I felt it the most before. Was thinking about wrapping the exhaust. Can I wrap the pipes and heat shields. Is that a bad idea? Or should I just wrap the pipes. The wrap would look sweet. Thanks in advance and I hope the oil weight information helps someone.

 

[CHAINSAW]

I just did the 1000 mile check up on my '10 RGC. Ran 60 weight Amsoil in the motor. What a huge difference in temperature. No heat on the right leg where I felt it the most before. Was thinking about wrapping the exhaust. Can I wrap the pipes and heat shields. Is that a bad idea? Or should I just wrap the pipes. The wrap would look sweet. Thanks in advance and I hope the oil weight information helps someone.

You want a good tight seal when wrapping pipes,.. so no, you don't want to wrap both the shields and pipes because there will be a gap. Unless you wrapped the pipes first,.. install the shields then put on a second wrap around it all,.. but not sure if that would really help. When you wrap pipes, you soak the wrap in water to get them really wet so they expand. Then when your done wrapping, slap the pipes on your bike before it totally dries out. The heat will shrink the wrap way tighter then you could of by hand, and its fun to watch all the steam coming off your bike. I know this doesnt effect us with road glides, but with custom bikes you want to make sure you have no exposed bare metal above the pipes. It will rust within seconds of that steam hitting it.

Im seriously thinking about wrapping my pipes once they come in now,.. if there is enough room between them and the shields that is. I have the wrap, but man is it a pain to do on a full length set.

 

[joke]

Here's a few replies from the HDF on heat tape - pick one -

#1. - "What ever you do don't do this it will actually be hotter not cooler it's been proven over and over again, heat tape pulls heat out of the exhaust pipe and causes a super hot area over the outside of the pipe which is very hard on the pipe itself, it makes the surrounding air hotter and can cause a decrease in HP because when you pull heat out of the pipe the exhaust actually slows down which robs some of scavenging affect.
On the other hand ceramic coating works wonders for getting rid if heat, I did mine this last winter and it helps a lot, the ceramic coat holds the heat inside the pipe which reduces outside heat and it also increases the speed of the exhaust in the pipe which increases HP. Ceramic coating really does work, it was a $100 well spent."

#2. - "Header wrap, done properly, holds the heat inside the headers. It will keep the exhaust gasses hotter, which reduces density and promotes exaust speed and scavenging. It's not even controversial.

Ceramic coatings will also hold heat inside the exhaust, but don't reduce exterior heat as well as header wrap. It's why some folks with ceramic coated exhaust also use header wrap."

#3. - "Word of caution to the tape users. If you ride in wet conditions alot, the tape holds in moisture and can cause your exhaust to rot without you knowing it. Heat tape does work but this is just one of the down falls of using it."

Here's the HDF thread - http://www.hdforums.com/forum/touring-models/532587-why-is-the-right-side-so-friggin-hot.html

 

[dblkick]

Has anyone "gutted" thier cat? jus curious... not that I would ever think of doing that, ever....

 

[Autobred]

yup, did last weekend. I did it primarily to loose some heat as you stated in first post. Easy to do. So far I have the xied, cat removal, and a slip on to help with heat issue. Runs well and Im content with it...for now

 

[ronn39]

yup, did last weekend. I did it primarily to loose some heat as you stated in first post. Easy to do. So far I have the xied, cat removal, and a slip on to help with heat issue. Runs well and Im content with it...for now

So I'm really curious about the "easy" part. Tell me more... inquiring minds need to know. )

 

[Autobred]

So I'm really curious about the "easy" part. Tell me more... inquiring minds need to know. )

Sure it is! Its as easy as unbolting your exhaust system off. unplug/unscrew the 02 sensors located at the end of the header. The cat is located at the pics Ive provided..I believe its at the cat removal thread someone started. Hacksaw that sucker in half. The hardest part which isnt that hard was removing the cat material. I just took a cordless drill, started with a 1/4" bit and started drilling around the edges of cat material. Id say I spent a half an hour on each half to clean up, and when you think youve got it cleaned up, clean it some more whether a round bristle brush that goes on your drill or if you wanna polish it use a dremel attachment When thats done take it to your local muffler shop and get it welded. If youre smart start it early saturday and be the first to get to muffler shop and get it welded. 10 minutes, $20. Then reassemble. Youre other option is to order a header for $400 and wait a couple weeks for down time and get 5 to 10 more horsepower on the dyno. Personally I have no issue keeping up with my bros 0-80 in real actual events. I was done with this mod in 3 hours from teardown to test drive. Its a hell of alot cooler than it was and its instant gratification. the money I saved I bought an amp for the bike
Each to there own I suppose. As to answer your question about easy? Well you have to be judge of that, but youve got my opinion.. thanks for asking bro!
On a side note Ive found someone had posted at the technical questions provided by the Admin. area where a guy of the name of Gary had said something about the stock header is actually a pretty good design minus the cat. Any truth in it ? I dont know.. I just know it runs cooler, no science in that LOL