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Discussion Starter #1
How do I know if my battery needs to be replaced?

Last week I went one day without riding my 2010 'Glide and it didn't have enough juice to start the next morning - even though it was on a Battery Tender overnight. The same thing just happened to me today.

The voltmeter on the dash reads between 14 and 16 when I ride, and pretty much stays there. So I'm guessing the electrical system is fine, but the battery is not?
 

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What you want to do is check your voltage at the battery before starting, it should be ~ 12V. Also watch what the voltage does when cranking.

One other things, is I don't believe you should show more than 14.5V while running. However, don't take the DASH as gospel, my '94 shows 11.2 when the battery is showing 14.4.

If this looks good, reply to this, I have a couple more things to check!

-G
 

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There will be a lot of good suggestions. If your bike is a 2010 and if the battery has never been changed, it is 5-6 years old. I would say it is time for to be replaced no matter what the issue is, just my opinion.
 

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Last week I went one day without riding my 2010 'Glide and it didn't have enough juice to start the next morning - even though it was on a Battery Tender overnight. The same thing just happened to me today.
If the thing went dead while connected to a battery tender overnight (twice..), it's possible the issue is that the battery tender is borked. Try leaving it sit overnight without the battery tender and see what happens.
 

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If the thing went dead while connected to a battery tender overnight (twice..), it's possible the issue is that the battery tender is borked. Try leaving it sit overnight without the battery tender and see what happens.
The battery tender isn't really a issue.
If you ride the bike once a month and it has a good battery and the charging system is in good working order then there is no need for a battery tender.
I haven't been riding my bike much because of my current health issues and the bike has been sitting for 4 to 6 weeks at a time with the security on and I can walk out and start it with no problems.
You should check the connections first and if they are clean and tight then you probably need a new battery, check out Battery Mart for a good battery for around $100.
 

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When ever I buy a used vehicle I replace battery light bulbs belts hoses brake pads filters. Depending on how old starter alternator water pumps. Then I know they are good.
 

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The battery tender isn't really a issue.
If you ride the bike once a month and it has a good battery and the charging system is in good working order then there is no need for a battery tender.
I haven't been riding my bike much because of my current health issues and the bike has been sitting for 4 to 6 weeks at a time with the security on and I can walk out and start it with no problems.
You should check the connections first and if they are clean and tight then you probably need a new battery.
I never use battery tenders either...I live in Florida.

But I think you're missing my point. If the bike is ridden daily and all is/stays fine, voltage up etc.. Chances are the cables are at least tight enough to hold it up that far. And if the battery left on it's own will go dead after one day of sitting then it should be showing some other (low voltage/cranking slow) bad behavior.

The OP stated that the bike only sat for one day.

So the question arises is there something draining the system during that time period that isn't normally connected to the bike... Like a (apparently overused) half cooked-off battery tender that is acting like an electromagnet (any coil of wire will) and putting a drain on the battery instead of supplying it with a trickle charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
If the thing went dead while connected to a battery tender overnight (twice..), it's possible the issue is that the battery tender is borked. Try leaving it sit overnight without the battery tender and see what happens.
Giving that a try tonight. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I never use battery tenders either...I live in Florida.

But I think you're missing my point. If the bike is ridden daily and all is/stays fine, voltage up etc.. Chances are the cables are at least tight enough to hold it up that far. And if the battery left on it's own will go dead after one day of sitting then it should be showing some other (low voltage/cranking slow) bad behavior.

The OP stated that the bike only sat for one day.

So the question arises is there something draining the system during that time period that isn't normally connected to the bike... Like a (apparently overused) half cooked-off battery tender that is acting like an electromagnet (any coil of wire will) and putting a drain on the battery instead of supplying it with a trickle charge.

The only reason I hooked it up to a battery tender was to see if the battery was accepting a charge. The tender has both a charging and storage mode. Storage mode engages if the battery is charged. And it did engage, making it confusing that the bike would't start.

I agree completely that a good battery should be able to sit overnight without needing a trickle charge.
 

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I never use battery tenders either...I live in Florida.

But I think you're missing my point. If the bike is ridden daily and all is/stays fine, voltage up etc.. Chances are the cables are at least tight enough to hold it up that far. And if the battery left on it's own will go dead after one day of sitting then it should be showing some other (low voltage/cranking slow) bad behavior.

The OP stated that the bike only sat for one day.

So the question arises is there something draining the system during that time period that isn't normally connected to the bike... Like a (apparently overused) half cooked-off battery tender that is acting like an electromagnet (any coil of wire will) and putting a drain on the battery instead of supplying it with a trickle charge.

Chance are the battery tender isn't pulling down the battery. It sounds as if the battery has met the end of its life and it is just time to replace the battery, the battery is 6 + years old so it is the most likely the culprit.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Giving that a try tonight. Thanks![/QUOT

So now you have a choice to make

Battery +, 125
Battery mart - 2 day wait (min) , 100
HD- $190
I've made more 'choices' for this Harley in four months than I had to made over four years with my Yamaha.
 

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Chance are the battery tender isn't pulling down the battery. It sounds as if the battery has met the end of its life and it is just time to replace the battery, the battery is 6 + years old so it is the most likely the culprit.
The actual age of the battery isn't known. It was only pondered once, and assumed going forward. So I tend to like to lean towards trying out the possibilities that do not involve parting with $100+ first.
 

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Headrope , bought it used, from dealer S of Seattle.
not speaking for him, the dealer lacks sincerity and shows.

All indications are that Headrope is a Rider and commutes in this area of Mixed Nuts, I salute him, having done so. And he, as he the comparison to a Metric to his HD yearning.

We take it he knows how to use a multimeter, even how to jump his year model Roadglide, even starter hot to ground block.

And if it's not holding charge, soon it ll not take a jump either.

Load test whatever, hell be needing a good CCA battery
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Headrope , bought it used, from dealer S of Seattle.
not speaking for him, the dealer lacks sincerity and shows.

All indications are that Headrope is a Rider and commutes in this area of Mixed Nuts, I salute him, having done so. And he, as he the comparison to a Metric to his HD yearning.

We take it he knows how to use a multimeter, even how to jump his year model Roadglide, even starter hot to ground block.

And if it's not holding charge, soon it ll not take a jump either.

Load test whatever, hell be needing a good CCA battery
^^^^Bingo (but from a dealer in Marysville).
I didn't expect a Harley to be the same as a metric but I thought it would be more reliable. My Harley is a 2010. My metric is a 1986!
 

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If it was my bike I'd use a multimeter to check the battery before starting, during starting and while running if it will run and go from there. A resting battery should be approx 12+ volts, a cranking battery should drop to the high 10 to low 11 volt range and a running battery should be approx high 12 to low 14 volt range. Also test your tender to see if it's working properly and tending or charging as it should be. Does the battery have any markings on it to determine if it's an HD battery or aftermarket?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Bought a new battery. The old one was 12.5 volts after sitting for 12 hours, and would drop to 7 volts once the ignition was turned on. While cranking, it would go down to 5.
 
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