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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Stage III 103-110 or Stage III performance upgrade at 103?

Good day all,

Im new to the forum and was recommended to join. I have two questions...

1. I have purchased the Stage III performance upgrade for my 15' Special. This is the kit before going to 103 to 110 Stage III. I have not taken the bike to the shop yet to install. Am I short changing myself our should I just bump it to the 110? Also the sales rep tried to push me into the tire shredder kit based upon only wha you get for a few dollars more . I just want to ride two up comfortably and have more passing or climbing power on demand. Any advice?

2. I have a FP3 and Vance & Hines sent me a few maps to avoid the up charge for the dyno and wasting my $400 on the FP3. It can only be used on 1 bike... that sucks!
 

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I just want to ride two up comfortably and have more passing or climbing power on demand.
If this is all you want then stick with stage 2 and do it yourself, AND, you'll save a ton of cash.. it's super easy. You'll be done during a weekend. I had the PC-V tuner which died on me but I've only heard great things about FP3.
 

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Depending on the weight of you and the Mrs. Scotty is pretty on point. Good set of cams and a good tune. I will add. A good 2-1 pipe. Will make it even better. If you're running true duals. You're lose is in that header. 2-1-2. Retain your torque
 

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Depending on the weight of you and the Mrs. Scotty is pretty on point. Good set of cams and a good tune. I will add. A good 2-1 pipe. Will make it even better. If you're running true duals. You're lose is in that header. 2-1-2. Retain your torque
I agree totally, true duals are real weak in the low end, two into one is the best for performance, then the next best to that would be what i have a fullsac x-pipe which IMO performs really well if you dont want to go to a two into one. Secondly a good set of cams wake that glide up bigtime, especially if you go for a torque cam you should have no problem. I have a 96 inch motor with Feuling 525 cams and have no problem when riding two up going thru the mountains upstate.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks all....

I started to do a 2-1 pipe but didn't like the look. Did not know about the torque loss with duals. Cams seem to be the common thread of advice. As far as weight.... Im 6'1 250 and my wife is 5'7 around 205, so we are not light and why i was wondering about the displacement bump to 110.
 

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Thanks all....

I started to do a 2-1 pipe but didn't like the look. Did not know about the torque loss with duals. Cams seem to be the common thread of advice. As far as weight.... Im 6'1 250 and my wife is 5'7 around 205, so we are not light and why i was wondering about the displacement bump to 110.
The fullsac dx pipe or Vance and Hines power duals are a good choice. Also Drago and D & D make a great 2-1 with a ghost pipe to retain the dual look.

The old adage applies. There's no replacement for displacement. Question is do you need to drop that extra cash.

I'm 230 my wife is 145. I have a stage 1. Gutted cat, CVO mufflers with fullsac baffles and stock air cleaner tuned with a FP3. It does what I need.

I see guys posting dyno number with good cams and a proper tune that are so close to the 110 tire shredder kits yet they spent thousands less. I'd start with cams and if you're running true duals I'd ditch them for the fullsac or V&H header.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks man.. next bike is a CVO so I'll save the bank for that! The map for my current set up to the FP3 is Twin slash rounds with power duals advised by V&H. Going to look into the 2-1 ghost pipe.
 

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Just an FYI theres a 107 kit as well that a friend of mine who is a tech at local stealer says he like better than a 110 kit, not 100% sure why but i value his advice, but before we jump to that cams are a big game changer, as well as what cam you choose. I am 240 IBS and my wife is ugh-ahem 160 IBS and i have no problem running up the mountains in the Catskills with her on the back. But a 107 kit is very tempting.:smile:
 

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I have a 107 with with heads and cams and it runs very well for the money spent. If I were thinking of motor work again, a good cam (many listed on this sight), a good 2:1 pipe, intake and a dyno with a good tuner will get some really good numbers (also listed on this sight) for 1/2 the $ and is much less invasive to your motor.

My .02
 

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Don't waste your money on that stage 3 kit. A good low end /mid range cam is going to give you real good results for what you're looking for. Don't worry about HP, what you're looking for is torque so with intake and exhaust mods and a the right cam and a good tuner you're bike will have all the power you'll need for a great touring experience. I run true duals and I have plenty of power, I run 2 into 1 pipes before and I didn't like them and I really didn't notice any power difference between true duals and 2 into 1 pipes so run what you like.
 

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Don't waste your money on that stage 3 kit. A good low end /mid range cam is going to give you real good results for what you're looking for. Don't worry about HP, what you're looking for is torque so with intake and exhaust mods and a the right cam and a good tuner you're bike will have all the power you'll need for a great touring experience. I run true duals and I have plenty of power, I run 2 into 1 pipes before and I didn't like them and I really didn't notice any power difference between true duals and 2 into 1 pipes so run what you like.
See. And I had a totally different experience. 2-1-2 to a true dual and lost all bottom. With TMan 590 cams.
 

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See. And I had a totally different experience. 2-1-2 to a true dual and lost all bottom. With TMan 590 cams.
Sort of agree with you and Ironmark here. I've had both true duals and 2/1/2 and while there is some minor loss in torque, I don't think it is noticeable to the seat of the pants in most ly stock motors. The 2011 RGU with the Stage 4 kit and T-Man 590s would have been built enough that the difference was more than noticeable with that setup. That bike was set up for higher RPMs as it was and the loss of lower end torque by switching it to true duals would definitely be noticeable.

The difference in power on my '15, with just cams, proper exhaust, and proper air cleaner and tuner agrees with what most were saying to the OP. No need for stage 3 or 110 and that expense. Sure, no such thing as too much power, but believe that the money saved could be used to go on more trips.
 

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Sort of agree with you and Ironmark here. I've had both true duals and 2/1/2 and while there is some minor loss in torque, I don't think it is noticeable to the seat of the pants in most ly stock motors. The 2011 RGU with the Stage 4 kit and T-Man 590s would have been built enough that the difference was more than noticeable with that setup. That bike was set up for higher RPMs as it was and the loss of lower end torque by switching it to true duals would definitely be noticeable.

The difference in power on my '15, with just cams, proper exhaust, and proper air cleaner and tuner agrees with what most were saying to the OP. No need for stage 3 or 110 and that expense. Sure, no such thing as too much power, but believe that the money saved could be used to go on more trips.
Thanks for adding that.

Best pipe I ever had hands down. My Rinehart 2-1. All pull from the bottom on up.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The theme here is save the money... I like that! Makes me feel a little better than when I first posted this. HD is an expensive hobby. I used to race crotch rockets so, HP was an addiction. Running 200HP on sport bike and cruising with 80HP now is quite the change. Just wanted to still be able to haul a$$ without all the downshifting. Thank you all again!
 

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Thanks for adding that.

Best pipe I ever had hands down. My Rinehart 2-1. All pull from the bottom on up.
So true, i had good low end with my rineharts slip ons even, but i switched over to MGS because of 1-the look of the muffler, 2-the sound i prefered much better, not saying i didnt like rineharts i do, but the 3.5 inch mufflers sounded better than my 4 inch.
 
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