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2011 ultra surging and then backfire. Won't idle. Dealer has changed everything, ecm, injectors, coil, battery, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, gas, compression test, etc. No codes. Ran fine for 500 miles. Stopped and when started the problem began. Three techs and service manager working on it for two days.
 

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I had a Cummins diesel that had issues no one could figure out. After a month in the shop they put a new complete wiring harness in and no more issues.

May be something similar.
 

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2011 ultra surging and then backfire. Won't idle. Dealer has changed everything, ecm, injectors, coil, battery, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, gas, compression test, etc. No codes. Ran fine for 500 miles. Stopped and when started the problem began. Three techs and service manager working on it for two days.
Sounds like a wire is broken somewhere in the wiring harness and is losing voltage. Not much left after all they done.
 

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Sounds like a 'shotgun" fix, they'll be in changing fluid in your pipes next, sincere^ like to technical for em, and me
 

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Pull your air cleaner assembly, including the backing plate. Fire up the bike, and while the bike idles, push the wires that are above the induction module. You may have to have someone "tickle" the throttle to keep it running.

There is a known issue with the 2011 Mexican made wiring loom having that section of wires that are to short. Eventually a wire will break as the engine rocks in the frame. I had to fix two of those wires on mine.
 

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spark plugs-have hd push on electrode.hd had a bad batch.your bike sounds like mine with bad plugs that hd put in.the electrode goes up and down.hd had mine for 3 days.i got new plugs from cycle gear and put in --no more problem
 

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2011 ultra surging and then backfire. Won't idle. Dealer has changed everything, ecm, injectors, coil, battery, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, gas, compression test, etc. No codes. Ran fine for 500 miles. Stopped and when started the problem began. Three techs and service manager working on it for two days.
Well since the parts replacers (opps I mean techs) at the dealer couldn't find the problem by swapping out parts they did eliminate a lot of possibilities.
First check the bike for DTC codes and you will find the procedure in the troubleshooting section of the forum, if there are any DTC's write them down and then clear the DTC codes. If there are no DTC's try unplugging a sensor one at a time and try starting the bike, the bike may or may not run but the ECM should throw a DTC which will indicate that the sensor is working, plug the sensor back in and clear the DTC and go to the next sensor and try unplugging that one and so on.
I would lean towards parts that were not swapped out the crank position sensor is a good possibility but it doesn't have a history of going bad.
I would check the throttle body next. If you had a vacum leak chances are the idle would be high. It could be the MAP sensor which is on the top of the throttle body or the TCA (Throttle Control Actuator) which is the electric motor that controls the throttle plate. Also the ET (engine temp) sensor can cause problems, if the bike runs fine when it is cold then starts to run shitty when it warms up the ET sensor could be the culprit.
If you get DTC's with everything plugged in they should steer you in the right direction and check the wires at these locations for cracks in the insulation or breaks, the TCA plug can have issues with broken wires.
Was there any work done to the bike lately such as cam chest work??
 
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2011 ultra surging and then backfire. Won't idle. Dealer has changed everything, ecm, injectors, coil, battery, plugs, wires, fuel pump and filter, gas, compression test, etc. No codes. Ran fine for 500 miles. Stopped and when started the problem began. Three techs and service manager working on it for two days.
Mine did similar things, but not as severe. Backfire, surging, rough idle, occasional dying. Only when warm. HD changed the MAP sensor after it threw codes. Ran great for a few months. Another long hot day riding and started doing it again. Turned out the wiring for the plug to the MAP sensor was buggered up. Now, whether it was the original problem, or caused by someone who changed the sensor is still open for debate, but after repair have not had issues for several thousand miles.
 

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Mine did similar things, but not as severe. Backfire, surging, rough idle, occasional dying. Only when warm. HD changed the MAP sensor after it threw codes. Ran great for a few months. Another long hot day riding and started doing it again. Turned out the wiring for the plug to the MAP sensor was buggered up. Now, whether it was the original problem, or caused by someone who changed the sensor is still open for debate, but after repair have not had issues for several thousand miles.

That's the wiring I was talking about.
 

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spark plugs-have hd push on electrode.hd had a bad batch.your bike sounds like mine with bad plugs that hd put in.the electrode goes up and down.hd had mine for 3 days.i got new plugs from cycle gear and took in --no more problem
Not only Harley', always check the "porcelain"
ya turn it upside-down hear if ir her rattle, no that's
how you ckexk if she left her BenWal balls in
Porcelain---- just doesnt get used enough or "just can't wear it out,
......she got that glazed look again
 

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Not only Harley', always check the "porcelain"
ya turn it upside-down hear if ir her rattle, no that's
how you ckexk if she left her BenWal balls in Porcelain---- just doesnt get used enough or "just can't wear it out, ......she got that glazed look again
Oh man, I forgot about that, I bet that's it.


:confused:
 

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This is funny, because Sat morning my buddy was talking about his 13 Street Glide doing the SAME exact thing that's issues you're having. The bike didn't throw any codes for almost a year! Then finally while riding it one day it surged like hell on him and finally threw a code, he's a mechanic so read it when he finally got to work. It crank position sensor, so he tore into the wiring harness and replaced. BAM the bike never ran so good since he replaced, he bought it new and always said it lagged a bit around 3K in the rpms, once he put in the new sensor he got more power, smoother and faster throttle response and all his issues have been gone!
 

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Quick question, did your buddy replaced the crank position sensor or the wiring harness? I am having similar issues and getting many different opinions.
 

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Mine threw several codes, including the crank position sensor, turned out it was only the MAP sensor and wiring harness for the MAP sensor. I have thousands of miles (at leas 5, maybe 7?) since the fix with no issues.
 
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