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Discussion Starter #1
Help with brakes!!!!
I have a 2008 road glide that I just did taller bars and day makers on. Had a couple issues but got them sorted with no major problems and was back on the road. Took my wife for a short ride on mothers day and stopped at a park. Smelled something smoky and saw some smoke when we parked. I thought my wife just put her foot on the exhaust so didn't think anything of it. Got ready to go and started the bike. Started to smoke almost right away so I turned it off. Looked under the bike thinking that there was an oil leak or something and not a drop anywhere. I had my wife turn the key on and that's when I saw it, the rear brake sensor was melting and smoking everywhere! Road her home very carefully and had assumed there was a short in the handlebars I put on causing the connector to melt.

I tested the wire/connector that melted continuity against ground and am getting around 400 ohms (so some resistance but some connection with ground on the orange wire with the white stripe). Check the codes and I am getting C1095, C1214, C1216 which is basically brake light on continuously. I pulled the fairing and tested both sides of connectors. I am getting no continuity on the handlebar side and 400 on the other side meaning if there's a short its not in the handlebars I think. The brake light would turn on and off with back and front brake. I have replaced the rear brake switch and connector that melted and the orange wire with the white stripe is still testing 400.

What do ya'll thing? do I have a short somewhere in the orange wire with the white stripe or was the sensor just bad and that's why it melted? I called the dealership and they couldn't (or wouldn't) give me an answer on whether or not the continuity was normal or not ( don't wanna ride with a short in the abs/brake system). Can anyone shed some light on this for me?
 

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So now that you replaced the sensor/switch for the rear master, is your issue still present? Does everything operate as it should; brakes, dummy lights, cruise control, etc? Until you have a value for what the resistance spec. should be and if you are even testing it properly, I'd stop chasing the 400 number.
 

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I don't know much, but if it were my bike, I'd be rechecking all my work. sounds like you got some wires pinched somewhere. I dont think it's a coincidence that this started after you had the bars and fairing apart.
 

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Welcome to the tank. The 400 ohms could be the resistance of the brake lamp filament. I would get to the connector for the front brake switch ( handlebar change only affects this switch) and test to make sure it operating correctly using a multimeter make sure it opening/closing properly.

If you have LED brake light then 400 ohms could a partial short circuit due moisture across another connector in the circuit. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
BH#103 - I still need to put my fairing back on and take it for a little spin to see if the cruise control is working again (that's the only thing that wasn't working when this happened) but was trying to see if anyone knew if I had a problem or not to save me from possibly putting it back together and taking it apart again. I am not so much stuck on the 400 number as the getting some continuity between ground and the wire that melted. Do you know where I could find the correct spec? I can't seem to find anything in my service manual.

A Seabee - I completely agree with you. That was my first thought, but I've tested the problem wire and I'm getting no continuity between ground and and the wires in the handlebars. I am not going to take them back apart unless I can find a reason to do so because it's a PITA. Like I told BH#103, I need to throw the fairing back on and take it around the block and see if I get the codes back now that the sensor is new and connector replace.

Phantom6722 - Thanks, I will double check that the front brake switch is working as intended with my multimeter but as of right now I believe it is. I do not have an LED light but you bringing up that it could be the resistance through the bulb is a good suggestion.



Thank you guys, I will dot my I's and cross my t's and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry for the delay. Work has been crazy and I had some other things come up that took priority.

So I got my shark back together took her for a ride and everything seemed to be fine. Brake lights working. I got home and realized I forgot to test the cruise control. So I took it back out, brake light still working and still no cruise. As I was pulling into the driveway the check engine light came on and at some point between when I left and when I got back the brake light went back to staying on. So I checked the codes and the only relative one was U1016 which from what I understand means the ecu somewhere is not getting the info it needs.

That's how it sat until today. I tore the fairing back off and tested for voltage on the orange/white wire (which should have 12V) and there was no voltage. I checked the fuses and the accessory not the one labelled brake was popped which gives power to the orange/white wire that powers the brake switches, the cruise on/off switch by the ignition switch, and a few other things. I decided to try to see if I could narrow down where the resistance between orange/white and ground is coming from. I narrowed it down to between the connector that plugs into the bars and the connector that goes to the main harness. After unwrapping most of the wiring around the inner fairing I unplugged the speedo and tach (both have an orange/white connected to the rest) and tested for the resistance and there was no continuity. I plugged the tach in and resistance was about 1000, plugged the speedo in and it went back to 400. So I checked the connectors for crossed or bent pins and everything looks good. Is that normal? I am wondering if there is supposed to be some continuity between ground and the speedo/tach.

The other possibility that I can think of is there is maybe something in the cruise system that is shorting the orange/white system when it is attempted to be activated. Thoughts?
 

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just a quick shot in the dark. Did you activate/use your horn during your ride? If so, is it an aftermarket horn? does it have a relay in the circuit?

Reason I asked- I installed a stebel air horn (Nautilus) without adding the relay and everything worked fine for a while, until the horn stopped working. When it did, it took the cruise control, rear brake light, and rear turn signals with it, (apparently, they all are on the same circuit). Took it to a local shop and they replaced the acc fuse! Paid $50.00, (half hour labor) for a .50 part, and was told that the horn overloaded the circuit and needed to have a relay installed inline for the horn!

Lesson learned- when adding components that come with a relay- there's a reason for the relay!

Check your horn to see if it works.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So no new horn or anything but I double checked just to be safe and horn doesn't take out the fuse. Hoped trying to activate the cruise would pop it but that didn't do anything either. I suppose I just need to put it back together and try to reproduce the issue. I can't figure out how anything would short out the orange/white wire fuse and not short out something else first....

Hopefully I can figure it out if not I'll prob be out til next season.
 

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The other possibility that I can think of is there is maybe something in the cruise system that is shorting the orange/white system when it is attempted to be activated. Thoughts?[/QUOTE]

It could be possible that You have a problem with the set/resume switch for the cruise control.
These have been known to cause problems with the Harley Cruise Control.
Also, Your cruise control will not work if the brake light is being activated.
I hope You are able to find the cause of Your problem.
Best of Luck and keep Us posted on what You find.
Mike U.
 

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BFJ,
Just some thoughts for you. When you disconnect the speedo and tach your reading was; infinity (open circuit), 1000 ohms then back to 400 ohms. Check the circuit diagram if the O/W wire is a parallel connection between the tach/speedo 400 ohms maybe OK. Resistance goes down when connections are in parallel.

The cruise will not work if the brake light is at the stop (bright) condition. When you change the bars did you insert some cardboard between the brake lever and master cylinder when taking the bars apart? If not then you may have damaged the brake switch on the front brake assembly which is not too robust. Again good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all for the help and pointers. I actually damaged the front brake switch the first time I took the handle off last year. Was able to put so JB weld on it to make it activate the sensor.

Anyhow, I think that you're probably right about the parallel circuit Phantom. I did find one wire with questionable insulation so I taped it up and slapped everything back together. Took it on a short ride and no issues everything works including cruise. I took it to work today and back (about 50 miles round trip) and no problems so I am guessing it was that wire or just a gremlin that is going to come back to haunt me later. Hopefully not the latter...

Thanks again everyone and be safe out there.
 
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