Road Glide banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
not sure where to post this but initially posted it in the DIY forum. IOf this is where it belongs, I'll appreciate it if the moderators can let me know and I'll take it down on the other forum.

Took the forks off to replace the stock suspension on my 2013 Road Glide Ultra,with legends AXEO cartridges. While trying to get the 6mm bolt out of the bottom of the left fork lower slider, I just might have stripped head! Anybody encountered this before. What did you use to get the bolt out? Do you think a heat gun would make it easier to break the torque on the other one before I strip it too? Any ideas considered!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,290 Posts
I'm not sure by your post what 'type' of bolt head you're dealing with. Can you advise?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,391 Posts
I think your right it is a 6mm internal wrenching plug. Hopefully its your allen wrench thats messed up. You have to have a long allen preferably on a socket so you can get pressure pushing and twisting. A little heat will help if the plug had lock tite applied. Maybe try to soak in Kroil or similar. If the plug is truly stripped I would guess it would have to be drilled and extracted. Hopefully it's your allen wrench.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The part I'm talking about is Item#23, PN#45405-75A, SCREW, w/ washer (2), Found on the Fork, Front, Left and right, (Fairing Model) page in the owners section of the HD website,https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/content/document/view?id=273184&groupId=14

It may be that the hex driver I used (ball head) which was the only one I could find locally, was deficient. I ordered 3 more drivers from Grainger this morning for pick up tomorrow, along with some 3-in-1 penetrating oil, which I will use along with a heat gun tomorrow to try and get this bugger out. Wish me luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
453 Posts
The part I'm talking about is Item#23, PN#45405-75A, SCREW, w/ washer (2), Found on the Fork, Front, Left and right, (Fairing Model) page in the owners section of the HD website,https://serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com/sip/content/document/view?id=273184&groupId=14

It may be that the hex driver I used (ball head) which was the only one I could find locally, was deficient. I ordered 3 more drivers from Grainger this morning for pick up tomorrow, along with some 3-in-1 penetrating oil, which I will use along with a heat gun tomorrow to try and get this bugger out. Wish me luck!
Those ball drivers suck. Not enough contact with the bolt. I only use those if I need to angle it. Get a good socket and put it on a impact gun. That should torque it right off if you didn't strip the bolt.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
435 Posts
Don't think I can help, but as said use an impact on the other one. I put axeos in also, the impact popped them right out. Heat will definitely not hurt any thing. If it is stripped, try to get a square or torx in there, heat it good. And try an impact, good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks guys, I have to wait until Grainger opens in the morning to pick up my new impact 6mm driver to see if I can get this damn thing out. Will try 3-n-1 penetrating oil and a heat gun on max, if that doesn't work I'll probably end up drilling it out. Will let you know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
432 Posts
I used a 25" breaker bar and had no issue at all. I also used a 6mm 1/2" drive impact socket. Both pieces I bought from harbor freight. I honestly dreaded the 6mm bolt from all the posts I read on how it was going to be a problem, but with the breaker bar I had no issue at all. Hope it works out for you.

6mm:
https://www.harborfreight.com/8-pc-12-in-drive-metric-impact-hex-socket-set-67895.html

25" breaker bar:
https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-drive-25-in-professional-breaker-bar-62729.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
822 Posts
If the head is already a bit buggered, a new (non ball) bit might not go deep enough to get a good bite. So tap the bit into the head with a hammer to ensure it seats before putting any torque on it. Tap is the key word here...you're not driving a nail - Just trying to make sure it's seated as best as it can be in what's left of the head.

Also make sure the fork leg is braced against something solid - so you're not fighting the spring in the tube - and use a hand impact not a gun. The momentary downward force will help with where you're at and it's much more controlled.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,179 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys for all of the ideas. Job done! I looked all over for a 6mm hex bit at every hardware store in my area, from Home Depot, to Lowes, to Harbor Freight, Auto-zone, advance, and the local mom and pop place. No dice. Finally found it at Grainger. Man, if you have one of these near you, you are blessed. They either have or can get anything under the sun.

After getting back to the house with the new tool i discovered that the bolt head was too far gone from my previous attempts so I drilled it out a bit and used an easy out. Came out like butter!

Gt the tube disassembled, cleaned and the new legends cartridge installed and went to work on the other leg. Attacked the 6mm with the new bit and an electric impact wrench prior to taking the fork cap off and it came out like butter as well, BUT. When I went to take the fork cap off... you guessed it FROZEN. Tried every trick I knew but ended up taking to a metric shop across the street and they had it off in seconds! Pays to have a shop at your disposal! Got the tube home, disassembled and the new cartridge installed and the bike back together in an hour.

Took her for a short 10 mile test ride and man, what a difference! So, to recap the project, in the past week I've replaced the rear factory air shocks with Super Shox 14" premium shocks with relocation kit, the Front shocks with the Legends Axeo cartridges, Levers and mirrors and am looking forward to replacing the bars next weekend with the KST renegades.

The rear shocks literally just taking off 4 bolts, (2 per side), and replacing six bolts, shock upper mount, relocation mount bolt in the lower stock shox hole and one nut per side for the new relocation pin. The front was a bit more challenging but certainly in the wheelhouse of a back yard mechanic with a good set of tools.

I highly recommend the changes as the bike rides better than new now with 70k on the cloock
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,435 Posts
If the hex is rounded off in the hole, then next up would be to take a slightly larger torx bit and drive it into the hole. Then use the impact driver to break it lose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
176 Posts
I had that happen on my buddies bike. Had to drill the head off. Then believe it or not, when I pulled the fork off the threaded end of the bolt was finger tight. I will say if you drill, go as SLOW as you can. A little either wat, you’ll be buying a new fork slider.
Good luck!
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top