HF wheel chock and RGS

4269 Views 12 Replies 9 Participants Last post by reds4, Feb 18, 2016

Blackbag1

Discussion Starter · Apr 27, 2015 (Edited)

Are any of you using Harbor Frieght's 1800lb capacity wheel chock #61670 or #97842...both black-painted steel, both look the same, both have multiple position holes for front stop that captures the front of the wheel/tire assembly.

My question is...what hole position of the front stop are you using to capture the OEM stock RGS's 19" wheel/tire assembly?

I'm DYI'ing by myself and I want to roll my bike onto this chock, but I'm feeling a bit apprehensive about the rear pivot plate striking the bottom portion of the RGS's OEM stock front fender at its trailing edge as it captures the wheel/tire assembly

And which way is the rear pivot plate orientated (wait...is that even a word?

): short side of the plate to the rear or long side with a small hole in the center of the plate to the rear?

I already know I'm going to get a few more washers, maybe some nylon spacers, HF's anti-skid rubber to glue to the bottom ground contact areas, and a more robust hairpin to make this chock more "finished"

Thanks for your much needed help....I'd hate to booger up this process

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PGR

· #2 · Apr 27, 2015 (Edited)

I stopped using the chock, because while it's sort of easy to ride into the chock, it is really hard to get the bike back out of it. Almost a 2 person job, unless you get lucky.

The picture is pretty self explanatory. The fender on my 2011 doesn't come close to getting hit by the pivot.

Here's what it looked like on my lift..... it's has since been replaced buy a Titan lift wheel vice.

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Blackbag1

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 27, 2015 (Edited)

I know the pic is as self evident as a rock

but my questions are more specifically which front stop hole position is used to capture a "19 wheel/tire assembly....what's the orientation of the rear pivot plate...and will the rear portion of the pivot plate strike the trailing edge of the 2015 RGS front fender once the wheel/tire assembly is captured?

I take it that the 2011 RG has a different wheel/tire assembly size?...and if it does, would your 2011 RG and my 2015 RGS wheel/tire assembly use the same stop plate hole positions? In my mind it might not depending on how large the differences in circumference between the years/models of the two stick bikes.

I see it appears you have the pivot plate orientated short side to the rear....and that's what I'm thinking of doing to mitigate fender contact, but I wasn't sure if it affected capture...and maybe that's why it's difficult for some to roll back due to less leverage of the short side while the long side has to lift the assembly and weight as the bike is rolled back....OOOOOF!!!!....that could make it feel heavier.

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Johndeere

· #4 · Apr 27, 2015

I have them in all of my trailers and it works with all of my bikes or friends bikes. Doesnt matter, my 15 or 13 RG or older BW. Never hit fender.

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PGR

· #5 · Apr 27, 2015 (Edited)

Blackbag1 said:
I know the pic is as self evident as a rock but my questions are more specifically which front stop hole position is used to capture a "19 wheel/tire assembly....what's the orientation of the rear pivot plate...and will the rear portion of the pivot plate strike the trailing edge of the 2015 RGS front fender once the wheel/tire assembly is captured?

I take it that the 2011 RG has a different wheel/tire assembly size?...and if it does, would your 2011 RG and my 2015 RGS wheel/tire assembly use the same stop plate hole positions? In my mind it might not depending on how large the differences in circumference between the years/models of the two stick bikes.

I see it appears you have the pivot plate orientated short side to the rear....and that's what I'm thinking of doing to mitigate fender contact, but I wasn't sure if it affected capture...and maybe that's why it's difficult for some to roll back due to less leverage of the short side while the long side has to lift the assembly and weight as the bike is rolled back....OOOOOF!!!!....that could make it feel heavier.

For the front upright, first hole. My front wheel is off of a 2014 Ultra Limited. Width is different, but the rolling diameter is similar to a 19.
The pivot is actually narrower than the fender. It's not going to hit. I tried the pivot plate both ways. Didn't seem to matter. You still have to roll the wheel over the raised fulcrum bolt. This was especially nerve wracking trying to back the bike off of the lift.

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Blackbag1

Discussion Starter · #6 · Apr 27, 2015 (Edited)

Ok...I measured thrice and pushed forward once. With the forward stop at its most forward hole position...IT CLEARS WITH NO FENDER STRIKING ISSUES.

Now the only other issue is being able to roll it back with as little effort as possible...I think itll slide even with the HF anti-slip rubber strips. Mama don't understand the need to anchor the chock into the concrete garage floor...so....I think I'll bolt the chock onto a thick 4'x8' sheet of plywood I have laying around....back it with straps of flat stock between a few carriage bolts and the plywood sheet with the rounded heads faced down and a piece of thick carpet buffering between the bolt heads and the concrete to keep Mama happy. I might even attach simple grab handles at the four corners of the sheet to make moving it around easier. Maybe ******* over engineered, but what else can I do? I'll figure it out DYI-style

All this until I save up enough for my HF lift table

. Thanks for the info and encouragement, guys!

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Lucky D

· #7 · Apr 28, 2015

You don't need a full sheet of plywood. I have mine bolted to a 8' long 18 " wide piece of 3/4" ply wood and it works fine. If I need to get it out of the way for any reason I can pull the pin on the wheel stop, remove it , then lean the whole thing against the garage wall.

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mouser58

· #8 · Apr 28, 2015

I just installed one on my trailer.. Back holes were misaligned..Had to redrill.. I went to back mine out and had a hard time, but brain farted..it was in gear... I tied the bike down, rode around town and it looks sturdy.. I U-bolted the front to the trailer and lag bolted the back.. I have an 800 mile trip this weekend for Bike Weekend in Ocean City, Maryland and back..

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Blackbag1

Discussion Starter · #9 · Apr 28, 2015 (Edited)

Lucky D said:
You don't need a full sheet of plywood. I have mine bolted to a 8' long 18 " wide piece of 3/4" ply wood and it works fine. If I need to get it out of the way for any reason I can pull the pin on the wheel stop, remove it , then lean the whole thing against the garage wall.

A great idea! Thanks!

*late edit: I stuck HF's anti-skid rubber strips to the bottom of my chock and it worked as stated by what another DYI'er posted! The chock DOES NOT move on my smooth concrete when I roll the bike on or off...a PERFECT light-weight solution!

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Stickman81

· #10 · May 25, 2015

I have the HF chock and have used in for working on the bike in the garage, and to transport the bike on my trailer. I got the chock when I got my Street Glide because I did not want to try to secure the bike in the trailer by myself. I use it on the Road Glide now too.

I have my chock set at the third hole from the back.

It is a bit of an "Umph" to get it off the chock but it works for me.

I have my trailer at a angle with the tongue higher than normal. This helps me during the loading / unloading process when on the ramp itself. I can touch with my feet more so than I could with the trailer more level. I saw that to say that with the chock set in the third hole from the back, it still holds my RG well.

I included a pic of my trailer / truck setup to show the higher tongue angle of the trailer.

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Backup

· #11 · Feb 17, 2016

Really hurts the heart to see bikes on trailers. js

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canderso1970

· #12 · Feb 18, 2016

Nice setup with the wheel chock on the trailer. I plan to do this with my utility trailer that is similar in size to yours.

Do you have any problems towing that trailer set up like that? I can't imagine that a trailer that small at such a steep angle wouldn't want to sway all over the place on the highway.

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reds4

· #13 · Feb 18, 2016 (Edited)

Have had one 10 yrs or more, for 130 front
it's like putting a bike up on the centerstand on your toes while on the bike rock in the front brake to get it off...the stand itself lives outside after tripping over it many times

Put the king with a 150 front on it Once, my balls still sending

messages to my brain of the pain just thinking about the effort to get the stand detached

balls over brains

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