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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, I have seen the thread about soldering in a rear facing aux input, I am not too keen on opening the unit and soldering anything in there, particularly since I bought the extended warranty and dont want to give them any reason to blame a problem on me. That being said, I just had the entire bike painted, including the inner fairing, and want to listen to my Pandora and other aux music sources. I am adding a USB and 1/8" aux source plug into the fairing pocket, but need to connect the 1/8" to the stereo and dont want the wire to be seen over my new paint. Does anyone make an add on component that plugs into the HK to provide a rear either RCA or 1/8" input? I have seen the iPhone adaptor from various vendors (including HD), but I have both an iPhone and a Droid. With the availability of plugging modules into this unit, I am assuming someone makes something. Any ideas?
 

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If u don't want to do it yourself you can check out Iron Cross Audio. Don't have the web address at the moment. But if u do a search on the web or on this forum they should pop up...

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Discussion Starter #4
I looked at them, their prices are very attractive and they seem like a square dealer from the comments I have read. I am certain I can do the modification, I was just hoping someone knew of an add on module that would do it without needing to open the unit up. If I have to, I guess I have to. The paint and clean dash are much more important to me than the warranty on the stereo. I guess if push comes to shove and I get forced to replace the unit for whatever reason, I would go aftermarket anyway. Thanks for the help Cobra.
 

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If you do open up the radio, don't cut the circuit board too deep. Ask me how I know... the soldering of the wire is easy, cutting the trace for the aux plug, not so easy. I would leave the trace, and cut an aux wire jack (the one you just cut off to make your patch wire) to plug in and leave in, with no wire coming from it.

on the aux wire, red is right and ground is probably an unwrapped braded cable. good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
If you do open up the radio, don't cut the circuit board too deep. Ask me how I know... the soldering of the wire is easy, cutting the trace for the aux plug, not so easy. I would leave the trace, and cut an aux wire jack (the one you just cut off to make your patch wire) to plug in and leave in, with no wire coming from it.

on the aux wire, red is right and ground is probably an unwrapped braded cable. good luck.
I am sold on doing the rear aux jack. I will go pick up the head unit from my painter tonight and take it home and put it in. After the money I just spent on paint, I just cant stomach a wire coming out of the dash.
So what exactly does the cutting of the trace wire do for me? Is it absolutley necessary? It seems that leaving it in place would just put the new jack in parralel with the old one. Am I missing something?
 

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Here are the instructions for removing the surface mount, instead of cutting the trace:

http://www.hdbomm.com

Look halfway down the page for the details.

Hope this helps
 

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The issue with the trace is this... The hk recognizes the aux plug is inserted so it will make that input selectable. Without the plug or the trace mod, the aux is inactive. I think.....

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I added an additional aux cable to the rear following the instructions found on the iron aces speed shop's blog. Took about an hour (taking it really slow). I cut the tracer, works flawlessly, mod is about a year old and no issues...

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For dummies like me who are sure they would fubar cutting the trace, ironcrossaudio is awesome. Their price is reasonable and service and shipping is fast. Having the rear jack is well worth the money, and avoiding screwing up my head unit by trying it myself is priceless!
Ian
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Take a look at this product. May be a simple solution for you.
Miccus Mini-jack RX (BBMR-02)
Inferno, that is an awesome device. Thanks for the heads up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I added an additional aux cable to the rear following the instructions found on the iron aces speed shop's blog. Took about an hour (taking it really slow). I cut the tracer, works flawlessly, mod is about a year old and no issues...

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Cobra, is it obvious when you are cutting the trace, how deep is too deep, or did you just get lucky? I think I am going to dive into this tonight.
 

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Cobra, is it obvious when you are cutting the trace, how deep is too deep, or did you just get lucky? I think I am going to dive into this tonight.
Once u see what u need to cut its pretty simple. I used a hobby knife to cut. U can see in the pic the circuit lines u need to cut. I cut slowly, didn't put much down pressure, just a firm slice. After making the cut I connected the unit to the bike to make sure it worked... got it on the first try...

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Once u see what u need to cut its pretty simple. I used a hobby knife to cut. U can see in the pic the circuit lines u need to cut. I cut slowly, didn't put much down pressure, just a firm slice. After making the cut I connected the unit to the bike to make sure it worked... got it on the first try...

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Thanks Cobra, that makes me feel a little better. I ordered the Miccus Blue tooth device from Amazon to try, if it doesnt work or marginally works, I plan to attack this option.
 
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