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Discussion Starter #1
Ok before anyone starts flaming on me I know they run hot and I know their air cooled but when is hot to hot. I have a 2012 RGU with stage 1 and CFRs a decatted head pipe and 204 cams with a SERT tuner. My problem is that this thing gets so hot you can't stand to be on it. The front head will run around 270 degrees and the rear head will get up to around 390 degrees and I know the rear runs hotter but does anyone have any ideas what to do to get her cooled down some. As far as the way it runs it's not bad there's no pinging or anything it's just hot thx for any ideas you might have
 

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Take your lowers off in the summer. It really helps.
 

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I took the lowers off and installed the GADS deflectors. They're not as good as the lowers for buffeting, but a LOT better than nothing! Cools the legs tremendously! If you don't want to remove the lowers, take the door completely out of the lower. That's helps some too. I'm going to get a full dyno tune on mine next week in hopes of cooling it down a bit more, but I'm not holding my breath.



Mike
 

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X 2 on the Wards Fans. Just installed a couple of weeks ago. Went on a 1400 mile trip, watched the head temperature on my PowerVision. Highest temp was 269, but normally ran 210 - 230. Best part was at stops when the engine temp dropped & oil pressure stayed higher.
 

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Another thumbs up for the Ward fans... will not help with the heat to your legs (you need to remove the lowers in the summer for that...) but the fans do a great job cooling the heads. And they look frigging cool too!! :D
 

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Good GOD that sounds hot...Mine ran about 230-240 on a really hot day in traffic. Recently had engine trouble and one of the first clues was an oil temp guage at 300. I realize oil temp and head temp are different and all gauges aren't the same but WOW, that seems awfully high. Maybe I'm just clueless.
 

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+1 with tmd, also do you have the mid frame heat deflectors? they help also. im running feuling 525 cams and saw a drop in operating temp, EPA cams run too hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yeah I've got those too it's just frustrating as hell I love this bike and have put a bunch of money in it just like everyone on this forum and all I want is a bike I can ride year round without burning up. I don't mind that they put off heat I'm use to that from all of them I've owned but this one is beyond hot. Thanks guys for your help
 

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I have a 2011 RGU with stage 1, V&H hi output, power duals, tuner, SE Air. I have no complaints about heat at all. I two-up and get comments how much cooler the RGU runs compared to my last bike.

Have you activated the Temperature management system?

Engine Idle Temperature Management System
For those riders who frequently find themselves in riding conditions where the vehicle is subjected to prolonged idle conditions or traffic congestion, the motorcycle is equipped with an Engine Idle Temperature Management System (EITMS) to provide limited cooling of the rear cylinder.
When engine temperature reaches a pre-determined point, the EITMS will turn off the rear cylinder fuel injector. Idle speed will be maintained, however the rear cylinder will become an "air pump" which will work to cool the engine.
EITMS will activate (rear cylinder will turn off) when all of the following conditions are met:
Engine temperature is greater than 287°F domestic 165°C international
Twist grip opening is at idle
Vehicle speed under 1 mph 2 km/h
Engine speed under 1200 RPM
EITMS will disable (rear cylinder will again fire) if any one of the following occurs:

Engine temperature falls below 275°F domestic 135°C international
Twist grip opening is greater than idle
Vehicle speed exceeds 2 mph 3 km/h
Engine speed exceeds 1350 RPM
Clutch is released with vehicle in gear

When the engine is in EITMS operation, you may notice a difference in idle cadence. Additionally, there may be a unique exhaust odor. These are both considered to be normal conditions.

Enabling/Disabling EITMS

Enabled: The EITMS engine cooling feature will automatically activate whenever the vehicle comes to a complete stop and is idling during elevated temperature conditions. Even with the feature enabled, it may not activate under cool riding conditions.

Disabled: The EITMS feature is not active under any conditions.

Vehicles are delivered from the factory with EITMS disabled. EITMS can be enabled or disabled by the rider by performing the following procedure.

Turn the ignition switch to the ON position and push the engine OFF/RUN switch on the right handlebar to the RUN position (do not start the motorcycle).

Push the throttle to roll-off position and hold.

See Instrument Lamps. After approximately 3 seconds, the cruise indicator lamp will either flash green (EITMS enabled) or red (EITMS disabled).

NOTE:
A flashing lamp indicates the EITMS setting. A solid (non-flashing) lamp indicates the cruise control setting.

Repeat the procedure as needed to enable or disable EITMS.

NOTE:
The EITMS setting will remain in effect until it is changed by the rider or dealer. It does not have to be reconfigured at each startup.
 

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I believe I've tried everything to cool the beast. Nothing has worked. I've been told ceramic coated pipes help. Decided it's better to sell it and get a 15 when they come out with an ultra. On the other hand this may just be getting me ready for the big hot sleep.
Ha Ha.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Your probably right Harleyrider if they will get off the pot and build a RGU. As far as the TMS ichiban no that's one thing I haven't tried I'll activate it and see how that goes except for the constant roasting my main concern is that with it running that hot has been the fact that it has to be breaking down my oil and what kind of damage is it doing the that cylinder
 
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